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997.1 in gear but will not move

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Old 09-03-2018 | 08:56 PM
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Default 997.1 in gear but will not move

I have searched the web and posted at 2 other Porsche sites. without much success.

In need of help.

I parked the car at the mall and returned to it after 2 hours. Went inside, clutch in, gear in neutral, started the car, I heard a LOUD SOUND, the engine idled, geared in reverse, the car started to move slowly, then stops as if it is in neutral.

in lieu of reverse, i tried first gear with same results: crawls for a couple of feet then stops moving as if engine is in neutral.

No noise/grinding when shifting gears. I can start the engine without any noises or issues. The loud bang never happened again.

Any ideas? It is a 2007 C4S.

One article mentioned it might be a “half shaft”. I just lifted the car and it looks like the CV joints are intact and no visible prior leakage. I can manually spin the rear wheels without difficulty and without noise. When I spin one wheel the other side spins in the other direction.

Could it be the clutch, pressure plate, Throw out bearing assembly? If it is the clutch assembly, I would be really be disappointed for these units were replaced recently (mileage wise). It was 3+ years ago, but the car was never abused, raced, etc.

Thank you

Last edited by cab83_750; 09-04-2018 at 01:16 PM.
Old 09-03-2018 | 09:39 PM
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I will check the tranny fluid next but so far no signs of prior tranny leakage.
Old 09-04-2018 | 07:53 AM
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How does the clutch pedal feel? Could've blown a hydraulic line, but then with the engine running you wouldn't be able to move between gears without them grinding. Sounds like something mechanical has broken either in the clutch assembly, the transmission, or the driveline and is going to require further hands-on investigation.
Old 09-04-2018 | 08:52 AM
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Your problem is mechanical failure, certainly not transmission fluid. You'll need to have it flatbedded to a shop for diagnosis.
Old 09-04-2018 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Petza914
How does the clutch pedal feel? Could've blown a hydraulic line, but then with the engine running you wouldn't be able to move between gears without them grinding. Sounds like something mechanical has broken either in the clutch assembly, the transmission, or the driveline and is going to require further hands-on investigation.
The clutch pedal seems the same from a feel and sound standpoint. Nothing unusual.

now yesterday, I did hear a momentary or intermittent soft sound (like a can being drag on concrete) while idling in neutral.
Old 09-04-2018 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by swingwing
Your problem is mechanical failure, certainly not transmission fluid. You'll need to have it flatbedded to a shop for diagnosis.
i thought I would check the fluid just in case by some unknown reason, the tranny is dry resulting to broken internals from lack of lubrication.
Old 09-04-2018 | 01:44 PM
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When the car in put into gear, slightly release the clutch, and you press the accelerator, does the tach raise to higher rpm like in a neutral state?
Old 09-05-2018 | 11:48 AM
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The blind diagnoses ... I live for this...

My first thought is that the Clutch Plate failed, this would still allow you to engage the clutch (compressing the pressure plate and allowing the transmission to go into gear) with the clutch pedal released the pressure plate will compress onto the clutch plate but with the clutch plate failed (most likely surface material separated from plate face). The other possibility is the separation of the hub from the rest of the plate. If this were the case I would guess the splined hub center became disconnected from the rest of the hub, but I think this is unlikely.

If the Hydraulics went I'm sure you would feel that in the pedal and the obvious puddle of fluid and the reservoir would be empty (I would would include the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and pipe in this category).
If the Throwout Bearing failed, then chances are you would not be able to get the transmission smoothly into and out of gear with the engine running, it would fail to extend to release the the pressure plate there for the clutch plate would not be released from the pressure between the pressure plate and the flywheel.
If the Pressure Plate failed (generally fails in the relaxed state = compressed to the clutch plate) a couple component parts could fail here, the Diaphragm Spring and depending how this would break it could leave the pressure plate in the engaged position and if it totally disintegrated the pressure plate could lose the compression force to the clutch plate, but this again would mean the inability to smoothly shift the transmission into and out of gear with the engine running. If your Pressure Plate is a coil spring type failure would most likely be the shattering of the Pressure Plate surface and would result in the lose the compression force to the clutch plate again putting you in a situation where you have an inability to smoothly shift the transmission into and out of gear with the engine running. Shattering of the Pressure Plate surface can also be done in the Diaphragm Spring design as well with most likely the same result.
The worse possible thing... a sheared Input Shaft but I rule this out unless you were attempting a hole shot by dumping the clutch ... No, I don't think this would be your issue.

So bottom line is I'm going have to go with the Clutch Plate failure, I would think the friction material on at least one side has become separated from the the plate face. Two types of bonding methods that I know of, Riveted and Thermoset Adhesive Bonding, I have seen both methods fail.

Best of luck.
Old 09-07-2018 | 10:28 PM
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If the rpms go up when you hit the gas, with your foot off of the clutch pedal when it's in gear, I vote for a new clutch and pressure plate.
Old 10-08-2018 | 08:00 PM
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I finally was able to take the clutch out.

Would i I be correct to assume that these 2 units are not supposed to separate? And that the 8 bolts broke off?




Old 10-08-2018 | 10:34 PM
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Impressive.
...and inexpensive when compared to other things that could have been wrong.
Old 10-08-2018 | 11:46 PM
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I’d say you found the root cause!
Old 10-08-2018 | 11:55 PM
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Holy ****. Im trying to get my bearings here. Did your dual mass flywheel sheer off...??? Thats crazy. Is the clutch and pressure plate mangled too?

How many miles on that clutch? The first think that comes to mind is the clutch was replaced before but not the flywheel. Or maybe it was replaced and not torqued properly. A quick google shows some other guys have had similar issues:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...l-failure.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-flywheel.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...-warranty.html

For reference it should look like the pics below.




Good luck. If you need any tips on replacing the clutch ive got a DIY writeup. Just search my profile and you will find it.

Best of luck.
Old 10-09-2018 | 03:18 AM
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Yeah, so I did more research and this dual mass flywheel is supposed to be last around 100K.

Yeah, I saw some videos about testing: these are not supposed to separate. when turning, the top should not spin like a ferris wheel (lol). there should only be a small play (left and right).

Last edited by cab83_750; 10-09-2018 at 03:35 AM. Reason: spelling
Old 10-09-2018 | 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 4Driver4
Impressive.
...and inexpensive when compared to other things that could have been wrong.
I was forced to do this given the fact that the 'fix' prices quoted by indies and dealers were $3K-$6K grrrr! (the $3k did not include pressure plate; the $6K includes it).

Just ordered the bolts, pilot bearings and flywheel = $704.00

At least now I know how to drop the tranny. Still need to learn how to hook it back up. lol

Last edited by cab83_750; 10-09-2018 at 03:42 AM.


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