Thank you for that video. What ended up being Burner's source of the problem? The resistor or the fan/motor assembly? or, both? We don't know since he chose to replace both the fan/motor and resistor. My vote it was just the resistor. (He calls it the ballast, but Porsche sells it as "resistor") I've seen this many times. Porsche uses a Stage one and Stage Two relay system in conjunction with the resistor to control the speed of the fan motor. You can easily rule out the relays by swapping the stage two with the stage one. They're the same type of relay. Removing the fan/motor assembly vs. the resistor is much more time consuming. If I'm not mistaken, on the 997, to remove the entire front fan/motor assembly, you have to remove the front bumper, air duct, pull back the condenser and radiator. Where as, you just remove the wheel and inner well liner to replace the resistor. Burner doesn't show this part because he probably did it at an earlier date.

Regarding the cold air problem, once you get the fan issue resolved, then test the system for air coldness. If it's still warm, then there is much bigger problem with the system such as a refrigerant leak, compressor problem, etc. If you're not comfortable pressure testing or charging an AC system, then I recommend taking to a specialist.

 

The dye shows up under UV light, so you have to get said light and your eyeballs on the leak source to see it. If leak is in the evaporator (i.e., behind the dash) you're in for a real treat, both in the troubleshooting and subsequent repair. There's no difference between DIY refrigerant and what's in the shop bay; it's all R-134.