New Starter??
#1
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Pretty sure I need a new starter, but wanted some opinions before I start buying parts.
2006 4S Cab, 66k.
Symptom is sluggish start, esp. after driving a while
previous owner had the infamous battery cable replaced 3 months ago
measured voltage across the battery, with car off measures 12.8 V, with car on measures 14.2 V, so I don't I have something else causing resistance between the battery and the alternator.
Also, every once in a while I hear a very brief screech like sound for about 1/2 second when cranking.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
2006 4S Cab, 66k.
Symptom is sluggish start, esp. after driving a while
previous owner had the infamous battery cable replaced 3 months ago
measured voltage across the battery, with car off measures 12.8 V, with car on measures 14.2 V, so I don't I have something else causing resistance between the battery and the alternator.
Also, every once in a while I hear a very brief screech like sound for about 1/2 second when cranking.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
#2
Intermediate
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Buffalo NY
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You may want to read this just as a reference too, not sure if this will help: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...e-997-1-a.html
Jeller
Jeller
#4
Three Wheelin'
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Have the battery tested under a load to see if it stays at 12 volts first.
#5
Three Wheelin'
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14.2v sounds pretty good and battery should be fully charged at 12.8v. I think it’s a pretty safe bet it’s your starter. It’s not an expensive part and an easy diy so I would go ahead and replace.
Keep us posted.
Keep us posted.
#6
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I copied and pasted below from a previous post that I made. Read below, replace your starter, and your problem will be solved! My car is a 2006 C4S that also had battery cable replaced many years ago.
There have been many discussions about the "hot/warm slow startup issues" that mimic a low battery problem. When these cars first came out they have a bad crimp in the battery cable that caused some loss in voltage power. Discussions ranging from trickle charging, replacing batteries, cables and starters can be found by searching rennlist. Most of the 997s should have already had that battery cable replaced under warranty at some point in the past already. Although that could still be the issue, the starter on a 10 year old car may just be getting tired. I have several friends who had the same hot startup problems and after replacing an old starter the problem was resolved. In fact, I am replacing my starter this weekend. I have had this issue as well for quite some time and have even pulled out the battery pin inside the firewall to clean up any corrosion, which there was barely any living in dry/hot southern California. I know my battery cable was replaced years ago under warranty. So I am placing my bet on a new starter to solve the problem. I will keep ya posted if you like.
You can find the direct starter replacement online for around $200. Porsche part dealer price is 5x's that price!
google or ebay search for part below.
Bosch SR-0808 N
Fitment Type: Direct Replacement Manufacturer Part Number: 0001123052
Region of Manufacture: Hungary Interchange Part Number: 99660410300, 996 604 103 00, 99660410301, 01
Other Part Number: SR0808N, SR0808 N, SR 0808 N, SR0808X, SR0808
btw... for Bosch parts... if part# ends with "N" = new. X = remanufactured to bosch specs.
I replaced the starter shortly after this post. Problem solved! post below after install
completed the install of new starter last night. About a 3 hour job taking your time. This included me cleaning my throttle body, then cleaning my MAF Sensor, which then lead to me to cleaning my Air Filter, and doing a quick engine clean.... so it will take less time if you skip all that.![](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Still. The pdf file attached in previous post was a great guide and it's not that difficult with patience. Figure about an hour to disassemble and clear a path to the starter.
Then about 1/2 hour to remove and reinstall starter.
Add 15 minutes for 2 beers as a reward for getting the pain the *** bolt hidden underneath the starter. It actually was not too bad, but my hands were totally chewed up afterwards.
and about 45 minutes to reassemble.
I did not remove the 2nd cross plenum. But suggest you loosen the hose clamps on the plenum to avoid gouging the heck out of your hands![](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Have a magnetic extension close by in case you drop any sockets or tools. Make sure you hold on to that bottom bolt as you unscrew it. You do not want to drop that in to the back of the engine bay.
also Be sure to tape the bolt into the socket before guiding it into the bottom hole on install. Some tape just to hold the edge of the bolt head in the socket.
So the answer to the big question.. Did the new starter resolve my hot slow start issue??? YES, yes it did. She turns over with gusto and starts right up. Went on a few errands where I know in the past the hot slow start would occur in between stops.
Starts right up with no hesitations at all even when hot. Also I did not charge my battery at all before this. I had some slow starts earlier in the day before I did the replacement. So I wanted the same battery charge level with the new starter.
Definitely solved my problem and hopefully this works for you too. I will have to wait and see if the issue comes back, but pretty confident based on my tests today that my old starter was just tired after 12 years of cranking....
several weeks later... new starter still cranks over like a new car every time. no matter how hot !
There have been many discussions about the "hot/warm slow startup issues" that mimic a low battery problem. When these cars first came out they have a bad crimp in the battery cable that caused some loss in voltage power. Discussions ranging from trickle charging, replacing batteries, cables and starters can be found by searching rennlist. Most of the 997s should have already had that battery cable replaced under warranty at some point in the past already. Although that could still be the issue, the starter on a 10 year old car may just be getting tired. I have several friends who had the same hot startup problems and after replacing an old starter the problem was resolved. In fact, I am replacing my starter this weekend. I have had this issue as well for quite some time and have even pulled out the battery pin inside the firewall to clean up any corrosion, which there was barely any living in dry/hot southern California. I know my battery cable was replaced years ago under warranty. So I am placing my bet on a new starter to solve the problem. I will keep ya posted if you like.
You can find the direct starter replacement online for around $200. Porsche part dealer price is 5x's that price!
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
google or ebay search for part below.
Bosch SR-0808 N
Fitment Type: Direct Replacement Manufacturer Part Number: 0001123052
Region of Manufacture: Hungary Interchange Part Number: 99660410300, 996 604 103 00, 99660410301, 01
Other Part Number: SR0808N, SR0808 N, SR 0808 N, SR0808X, SR0808
btw... for Bosch parts... if part# ends with "N" = new. X = remanufactured to bosch specs.
I replaced the starter shortly after this post. Problem solved! post below after install
completed the install of new starter last night. About a 3 hour job taking your time. This included me cleaning my throttle body, then cleaning my MAF Sensor, which then lead to me to cleaning my Air Filter, and doing a quick engine clean.... so it will take less time if you skip all that.
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Still. The pdf file attached in previous post was a great guide and it's not that difficult with patience. Figure about an hour to disassemble and clear a path to the starter.
Then about 1/2 hour to remove and reinstall starter.
Add 15 minutes for 2 beers as a reward for getting the pain the *** bolt hidden underneath the starter. It actually was not too bad, but my hands were totally chewed up afterwards.
and about 45 minutes to reassemble.
I did not remove the 2nd cross plenum. But suggest you loosen the hose clamps on the plenum to avoid gouging the heck out of your hands
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Have a magnetic extension close by in case you drop any sockets or tools. Make sure you hold on to that bottom bolt as you unscrew it. You do not want to drop that in to the back of the engine bay.
also Be sure to tape the bolt into the socket before guiding it into the bottom hole on install. Some tape just to hold the edge of the bolt head in the socket.
So the answer to the big question.. Did the new starter resolve my hot slow start issue??? YES, yes it did. She turns over with gusto and starts right up. Went on a few errands where I know in the past the hot slow start would occur in between stops.
Starts right up with no hesitations at all even when hot. Also I did not charge my battery at all before this. I had some slow starts earlier in the day before I did the replacement. So I wanted the same battery charge level with the new starter.
Definitely solved my problem and hopefully this works for you too. I will have to wait and see if the issue comes back, but pretty confident based on my tests today that my old starter was just tired after 12 years of cranking....
several weeks later... new starter still cranks over like a new car every time. no matter how hot !
#7
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I had slow start after hot issue. My factory mechanic replaced it for under $300. Now mind you he is a long time personal friend but wow....no more slow starts. It sounds like a sewing machine when starting. If you do decide to go it alone, its cheap and simple to get to.
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#9
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Follow up: New starter is installed and car starts right up with no hesitation, including warm starts.
The bottom left side mounting bolt for the starter SUCKS! I still can't believe I managed to get it out and reinstall it. Crazy!
I opted not to take out the tuning pipe as I couldn't really tell that it would give me much more room to work with. It's a tight fit to squeeze the old starter out and the new one in, but it can be done!
Very appreciate of all the right-ups on this project from others. I wouldn't have been brave enough to do it myself with out them!
The bottom left side mounting bolt for the starter SUCKS! I still can't believe I managed to get it out and reinstall it. Crazy!
I opted not to take out the tuning pipe as I couldn't really tell that it would give me much more room to work with. It's a tight fit to squeeze the old starter out and the new one in, but it can be done!
Very appreciate of all the right-ups on this project from others. I wouldn't have been brave enough to do it myself with out them!
#10
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Follow up: New starter is installed and car starts right up with no hesitation, including warm starts.
The bottom left side mounting bolt for the starter SUCKS! I still can't believe I managed to get it out and reinstall it. Crazy!
I opted not to take out the tuning pipe as I couldn't really tell that it would give me much more room to work with. It's a tight fit to squeeze the old starter out and the new one in, but it can be done!
Very appreciate of all the right-ups on this project from others. I wouldn't have been brave enough to do it myself with out them!
The bottom left side mounting bolt for the starter SUCKS! I still can't believe I managed to get it out and reinstall it. Crazy!
I opted not to take out the tuning pipe as I couldn't really tell that it would give me much more room to work with. It's a tight fit to squeeze the old starter out and the new one in, but it can be done!
Very appreciate of all the right-ups on this project from others. I wouldn't have been brave enough to do it myself with out them!
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
Last edited by qikqbn; 07-03-2018 at 03:45 AM.
#11
Rennlist Member
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Your story is exactly the same as mine. I think the cable issue damages the starter. Problems starting with slow start when hot went away after changing the starter. Correct - it sucked.
#14
#15
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Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I thought it would be better to add to an existing resource vs. starting a new thread....
My car was suffering from a sluggish start under both cold and warm conditions. From the limited service records I was able to dig up for my car, the previous owner had the alternator cable replaced already to address the hot start issue. I replaced the battery with a new AGM battery last year and keep it on a tender when I'm not driving it for more than a few days, so I know it wasn't my battery not providing enough cranking power. I came across this thread and a few others suggesting it could be the starter, especially considering the fact that my sluggish starting was also accruing when the engine was cold.
To cut to the chase, replacing the starter absolutely solved my sluggish starting issue. It definitely turns over with more gusto now, both when cold and when warm.
I bought a new Bosch starter from FCP Euro and tackled this project over the course of a few days, weather and daylight permitting. This isn't a project you want to rush, so be sure you don't need the car to get somewhere right away. Slow and steady wins the race.
The attached write up by @yvesvidal (post #14) and what @qikqbn added was very helpful. I also watched a couple of YouTube videos which helped me visualize some things.
A couple other tips I can add....
- If you're going to tackle this on your own, make sure you have the appropriate tools. The 24" 3/8 drive extension is a must, as is the universal joint. I think an 18" extension would be too short. The extension set I bought also included 12" 1/4 drive extension, which came in handy to loosen the hose clamps with the 7mm socket on the secondary plenum/tuning pipe.
- I threaded the bottom alternator bolt by itself, then snaked the extension, universal joint, and the socket as one piece with my left hand and guided the socket into place on the bolt with my right hand. I just felt like I didn't have the finger dexterity due to the location to thread the bolt with the socket on it. The good news is at this location, the engine surface is completely flat directly under the starter, so if for some reason the bolt drops, it's not going into the abyss.
- I did not remove the drive belt and loosen the alternator as I saw on one YouTube video. I don't think it is necessary and it doesn't really give you that much more room to work with.
- I tried (and failed) to remove the secondary plenum/tuning pipe. I loosened the clamps and pushed the rubber couplers back as far as they could go, and could still not get it out. So I tried to remove the starter with the tuning pipe in place, and that still wasn't working for me. Finally, I was able to get the tuning pipe pushed up and back enough to give me another inch or so to wiggle the old starter free and get the new one in.
- Someone mentioned it (sorry, all of the writeups and YouTube videos are blending together), but some painters tape or masking tape around the universal joint helps it from flopping all over the place, but still give yous enough articulation to get the job done. That was a very helpful hack.
Lastly, if anyone is doing any work in that area of the car or is having their shop do some work (AOS, Clutch job, etc.) I would consider proactively replacing the starter if it hasn't already been replaced. It's a bear to get to and for a $200 part when you have the access, I'd say go for it. It sounds like these starters can slowly build up resistance over time, causing the sluggish start issue, even if they are functioning fine other than that.
My car was suffering from a sluggish start under both cold and warm conditions. From the limited service records I was able to dig up for my car, the previous owner had the alternator cable replaced already to address the hot start issue. I replaced the battery with a new AGM battery last year and keep it on a tender when I'm not driving it for more than a few days, so I know it wasn't my battery not providing enough cranking power. I came across this thread and a few others suggesting it could be the starter, especially considering the fact that my sluggish starting was also accruing when the engine was cold.
To cut to the chase, replacing the starter absolutely solved my sluggish starting issue. It definitely turns over with more gusto now, both when cold and when warm.
I bought a new Bosch starter from FCP Euro and tackled this project over the course of a few days, weather and daylight permitting. This isn't a project you want to rush, so be sure you don't need the car to get somewhere right away. Slow and steady wins the race.
The attached write up by @yvesvidal (post #14) and what @qikqbn added was very helpful. I also watched a couple of YouTube videos which helped me visualize some things.
A couple other tips I can add....
- If you're going to tackle this on your own, make sure you have the appropriate tools. The 24" 3/8 drive extension is a must, as is the universal joint. I think an 18" extension would be too short. The extension set I bought also included 12" 1/4 drive extension, which came in handy to loosen the hose clamps with the 7mm socket on the secondary plenum/tuning pipe.
- I threaded the bottom alternator bolt by itself, then snaked the extension, universal joint, and the socket as one piece with my left hand and guided the socket into place on the bolt with my right hand. I just felt like I didn't have the finger dexterity due to the location to thread the bolt with the socket on it. The good news is at this location, the engine surface is completely flat directly under the starter, so if for some reason the bolt drops, it's not going into the abyss.
- I did not remove the drive belt and loosen the alternator as I saw on one YouTube video. I don't think it is necessary and it doesn't really give you that much more room to work with.
- I tried (and failed) to remove the secondary plenum/tuning pipe. I loosened the clamps and pushed the rubber couplers back as far as they could go, and could still not get it out. So I tried to remove the starter with the tuning pipe in place, and that still wasn't working for me. Finally, I was able to get the tuning pipe pushed up and back enough to give me another inch or so to wiggle the old starter free and get the new one in.
- Someone mentioned it (sorry, all of the writeups and YouTube videos are blending together), but some painters tape or masking tape around the universal joint helps it from flopping all over the place, but still give yous enough articulation to get the job done. That was a very helpful hack.
Lastly, if anyone is doing any work in that area of the car or is having their shop do some work (AOS, Clutch job, etc.) I would consider proactively replacing the starter if it hasn't already been replaced. It's a bear to get to and for a $200 part when you have the access, I'd say go for it. It sounds like these starters can slowly build up resistance over time, causing the sluggish start issue, even if they are functioning fine other than that.
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