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Just used this DIY to replace my tank (3rd overall. The second lasted 40K miles). A bit of a PITA but totally doable with the right tools (clamp wrench!) and very satisfying to get it done. To think that before I got my 997 I had never even done as much as an oil change before. The forums and DIYs like this have been invaluable. Thanks Bruce.
Same here. Most projects are more straightforward that this one, expect the water pump. You need to use the same Jenga skills to figure out how to drop it out.
Yes - water pump (I'm on my 3rd) and spark plugs are the two "routine" ones I'll leave to the mechanic. I figure it's good to have a professional look at the car periodically anyways.
Bumping an excellent thread! I didn't see this in the DIY and Tech Index.
Any advantage to doing this job at the same time as the water pump and thermostat? I have the parts for that job ready to go, and it seems like if I am already draining coolant and dropping the engine that I should address this at the same time.
Just did this today on my 07 C4S, tank had started generating pink stalactites on the side and smelled bad like cooking coolant after driving. My minor ideas to improve this:
-I disconnected and unclipped the blue/black wired connectors for the O2 sensors that are near the engine mounts before lowering. It looked like they would pull hard and possibly get damaged since they are clipped onto the engine frame.
-I had to remove the fuel rail electrical support bracket, but not the fuel rail. To remove the bracket, I undid the #1 (cycle valve) and #2 (hall sender) connectors, and then only the front most #3 (fuel injector) connector. Then I could pivot this whole wiring bracket up at the front (it has two soft clips that hold it to the fuel rail) and shift it to the side and down for clearance. This cleared the way for me to get the tank in and out. Before doing this, the triangular shaped plastic piping holder also came off, but not sure this was truly needed.
My trouble spot: on reinstall, the new tank would not go into the keyed top connector. It would go up into the connector, but could not be driven to the left to engage on the tabs no matter how hard I pushed. I ended up taking the black keyed top connector out to investigate (2 x 10 mm screws hold it up to body). Sure enough - the black keyed part slid fine on the old tank, but would not slide onto the new tank due to two problems: the overall keyed part of the new tank is slightly low causing an interference with the bottom of the black part, and the tabs on the tank were slightly thicker than they should be. New tank was "URO" brand. Instead of trying to return the tank and wait for a replacement of another brand, I worked on the tabs a little with files and a razor blade, chamfering the front edge of the tabs and removing a slight bit of material from the black part where there was interference. Got it so that it could slide with a little bit of force, but not enough plastic removed that I think I compromised it at all. What a pain. If I ever do this again it is worth the 2 minutes to take off the black keyed part from the car and check fit with the new tank before wrestling the new tank into the car and then realizing there is an issue.
I used this great thread to help get the tank out. Very much appreciated. I didn't have to take all the connections off, but I did have to unplug the 'cycle valve -1- on intake distributor 1-3.' The bottom spout was getting caught on the wire. I lost the small metal clip for the plug and cannot seem to find it anywhere with any amount of google/forum searching. Does anyone have any idea where one might find the clip for this plug?
My mechanic just emailed a cryptic message - "having a really hard time taking off the coolant tank - seized up on the bracket" - anyone here have any words of wisdom I can pass along?
My mechanic just emailed a cryptic message - "having a really hard time taking off the coolant tank - seized up on the bracket" - anyone here have any words of wisdom I can pass along?
Yea, it did not seize up. It is just a plain old, mother fn pain in the bt. Seriously, he never did one of these before. He will get it. Tell him to jiggle, shake, wiggle... and then grab the tank and do the same. Now, start to cuss. If you get it just right, it just slides on out easily... it mocks you.
I put my car up on ramps in the back, supported my engine from the carrier with a floor jack, and then removed the lower motor mount nuts and let the jack down slowly anfling the motor until the back wouldn't drop down any further and rhen lifted it up juat a bit and left it sitting onnrhr jack. There was plenty of space to remove and slide the tank out down the side.
I suspect he didnt drop the engine down. he will spend hours playing jenga with it until he does that. comes right out once you lower it ~2". just 2 bolts. no biggie.