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The DIY Guide to Replacing your 997 Coolant Expansion Tank

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Old 05-19-2018, 05:18 PM
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TheBruce
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Default The DIY Guide to Replacing your 997 Coolant Expansion Tank

I tackled this project the other day with the help of @mbatarga, @nwGTS and some old posts from @German888. Many thanks.

There is not a great amount of documentation on this so I put together a proper writeup for others. See attached.

A typical maintenance item with the 997.1 and 997.2 is the coolant expansion tank. It tends to get brittle and crack with age. This can cause a slow coolant leak, or total loss of coolant if not caught in time. Its imperative to inspect the tank regularly, or replace it as a preventive maintenance item.

Its not a hard project if you follow these steps and will only cost you $150 in parts and 3-4hrs work.

The guide was written for a 997.1s C2 and C2S but should be in the ballpark for C4S's and 997.2s.
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Last edited by TheBruce; 05-19-2018 at 06:47 PM.
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Old 05-19-2018, 05:23 PM
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bhvrdr
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Excellent write up. Thanks man. Im sure ill need it some day

mike
Old 05-19-2018, 05:28 PM
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DC911S
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Any tank older than 10 years or so, needs to be replaced.
Old 05-21-2018, 11:23 PM
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JustinCase
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Just changed mine out last month (2008 C2S). I was surprised by how much cracking it had. Great timing on this write-up, considering the average age of 997s.

You forgot the final step: "Rinse out turkey baster and put back in the drawer in the kitchen when your wife is out."
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Old 09-13-2018, 07:40 AM
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Goods
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This looks like an awesome write up. Thanks for the documentation.
Old 09-13-2018, 09:31 AM
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Petza914
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Originally Posted by DC911S
Any tank older than 10 years or so, needs to be replaced.
Yup, I know I'm on borrowed time on both my 05s so will need to tackle this sooner rather than later.
Old 09-13-2018, 06:44 PM
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TheBruce
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Glad it helped. Ping me with any questions. Hose clamp pliers are likely the best recommendation. The workshop manual says to remove the fuel rail and id be interested to hear if anyone did that. It will give you more clearance so likely dont have to drop the engine as much.
Old 12-22-2018, 01:46 AM
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rvidal
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I had to change my tank today and followed your document step by step. 2007 C4S, 96.000 km
Everything went as you said, perfect.
Thank you so much. Cheers
Old 12-22-2018, 02:45 AM
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TheBruce
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Originally Posted by rvidal
I had to change my tank today and followed your document step by step. 2007 C4S, 96.000 km
Everything went as you said, perfect.
Thank you so much. Cheers
Awesome. Glad it helped!
Old 12-26-2018, 11:30 PM
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ALEV8
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Y’all are nuts. This is a huge PITA......I dropped the engine but still can’t get the tank out. Don’t ask. Going to replace tank entirely as I thought I could change the o-rings and screws in the black cap. NOPE.


No turkey baster anywhere in this house either.
Old 12-26-2018, 11:42 PM
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TheBruce
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Send pics so I can see where you are hung up. It does take some fiddling but will come out.

I didnt use a turkey baster. I got a $10 hand pump from harbor freight.
Old 12-27-2018, 12:08 AM
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doclouie
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Originally Posted by ALEV8
Y’all are nuts. This is a huge PITA......I dropped the engine but still can’t get the tank out. Don’t ask. Going to replace tank entirely as I thought I could change the o-rings and screws in the black cap. NOPE.


No turkey baster anywhere in this house either.
The farther you drop the engine the easier it is to remove. Don’t just drop one side. I used this thread to replace mine this summer.
Old 12-28-2018, 12:32 AM
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ALEV8
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Used some clear tubing for the fish tank to siphon out almost every drop from the expansion tank into a coolant container i kept, today. Then pulled the larger bottom tank hose and stuffed in a wad of paper towels to catch the last bit draining out. Approximately 3.5 qts drained and lost maybe 5oz or less. Removed level sensor and set aside. Ordered new tank from Sonnen with 3 day delivery for 174$. Local dealer had none in stock and can’t get one until next Thu. I left evap line and canister filter line connected so gasoline fumes wouldn’t get me high but i know they should be tucked out of the way/ disconnected. Tank dropped a bit further downwards but not entirely free of the black bracket. Wanted to rest a day as back was killing me so I didn’t wrestle with it further. Transmission is resting on the crossmember. Engine supported fully with jack and 2x12. Inspection with a light revealed telltale vertical cracking developing on side of tank facing intake runners. Tomorrow we try again. I kept getting shut down by the big hose beneath the reservoir with the Henn fitting as it prevents downward travel of the tank but with lower hose disconnected maybe I can now move freely... .not sure what else is hanging up the tank but fuel rail etc isn’t really in the way after dropping engine.






Last edited by ALEV8; 12-28-2018 at 01:54 PM.
Old 12-28-2018, 04:06 PM
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ALEV8
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I figured out the bracket trick, and if you don’t tip the tank slightly to clear the bracket it just stays stuck in it. Once I realized that, wiggles right out basically. It has a hairline crack or two so it goes......new one on the way. Pictures appear to show leaks behind the tank but there were none.
Old 12-28-2018, 04:14 PM
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TheBruce
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Well done! Congrats!

Only tricky part for reinstall was ensuring the engine mounts were bolted evenly. I would make a few turns on each side to get it back straight.


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