Debating the 997.1 and .2 price delta is < $10k
#46
Three Wheelin'
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This is a bit off topic but I was about this close to buying the car that you own now. The P.O drove it from CA to FL at one point and lived in CO for a bit. We've talked on and off and even exchanged multiple texts about the car, scheduling a flight and PPI. The seller really sold me on the car but the color would be something that I'd regret since silver wasn't in my color palette. The Carfax owners was a bit confusing until he explained it more in detail but you are essentially the 3rd owner.
#47
Three Wheelin'
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I made this my default and have come to like it. Funny enough it took me like 3 months to figure out what this setting was. Its listed as a trip computer option "since hh:mm" and I had no idea what that meant. What it does is tell stats and fuel milage for your current drive but will continue tracking even if you stop for lunch or gas.
Once you install the LaPower bluetooth unit it pairs instantly and adds the iPhone name and signal strength on the screen and activates the "Tel" menu. You can skip songs and answer calls using factory controls.
![](https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/800x600/img_1415_1ab084b6939508253da403e5eef14aa058133304.jpg)
Im in design and absolutely HATED this being the default screen. I obsessed about it until I figured out how to change to the trip computer. It was literally the first thing I did when I got in the car :-)
![](https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/800x600/img_1417_33bfd050028ec212b001f4f85215d70bf7e302fd.jpg)
The other "must-do" mods on the 997.1 are:
1. Respray the soft touch pain on the center console, or just buy a new center console for $650. The old soft touch paint wears badly on Porsches and Ferraris. It needs to be sanded down to bare plastic and resprayed. I did mine in a few hours with $15 in rattle cans and it looks perfect.
2. Replace the AC buttons and PCM *****. These are also soft touch paint and I think hand lotions or sunscreen reacted with them. If they haven't been replaced already it looks like a gerbil chewed on them. The PCM ***** are $20 and you can get replacement AC ***** from MACarbon for $150. Dont use climarepair.com. That guy is incompetent.
This post I did recapping my first year costs and experiences may also be helpful.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...e-numbers.html
#48
Three Wheelin'
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This is a bit off topic but I was about this close to buying the car that you own now. The P.O drove it from CA to FL at one point and lived in CO for a bit. We've talked on and off and even exchanged multiple texts about the car, scheduling a flight and PPI. The seller really sold me on the car but the color would be something that I'd regret since silver wasn't in my color palette. The Carfax owners was a bit confusing until he explained it more in detail but you are essentially the 3rd owner.
After you install the Fisters I would highly recommend getting Eibach springs on it and 15mm spacers all around. It totally transforms the look of the base model. It drops it by about an inch, slightly lower than the S, but not slammed like H&Rs. I think its perfect and improved my ride quality as well.
#49
Three Wheelin'
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@Swingwing - thats a great deal on the 997.2 base! Well done. I was seeing some in that range last year but this year they seem to be mostly listed around $47k. The problem is so few of those were made you will only see 1-2 listed at any time.
After you install the Fisters I would highly recommend getting Eibach springs on it and 15mm spacers all around. It totally transforms the look of the base model. It drops it by about an inch, slightly lower than the S, but not slammed like H&Rs. I think its perfect and improved my ride quality as well.
After you install the Fisters I would highly recommend getting Eibach springs on it and 15mm spacers all around. It totally transforms the look of the base model. It drops it by about an inch, slightly lower than the S, but not slammed like H&Rs. I think its perfect and improved my ride quality as well.
#50
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1. Respray the soft touch pain on the center console, or just buy a new center console for $650. The old soft touch paint wears badly on Porsches and Ferraris. It needs to be sanded down to bare plastic and resprayed. I did mine in a few hours with $15 in rattle cans and it looks perfect.
As far as the PCM, I have seen a very small number of cars with natural leather and a matching leather PCM, that is a really nice setup if you can find it!
#51
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Bruce - thanks again I read that entire first year - very interesting. I am getting a little dismayed from the forums and trying to keep all of this in perspective (IMS/RMS/bore scoring/failed PDKs and death by a 1000 cuts).
In the last 48 hours, I've opened up to a manual as being more future proof than a PDK. By future proof I mean total lifetime cost of ownership and for the long run.
I'm looking at cars in the 50k range in both miles and cost and intend to keep the car for life. The way that I drive and the places I drive, clutches should last a good long time. I even came to the conclusion that 325hp is adequate enough because really I am not going to go over 140 or 150 on abandoned roads, not going to track and not going to stoplight race the Mustang next to me. So throw out PDK, Sport Chrono, PASM and all that stuff..
I just want to drive the car long term and enjoy it. With that in mind, I moved to make an offer on this 997.1 after seeing that I could do a 2 step PPI (the first to get over revs and error codes for $150) and based on go/no go of the over rev a full PPI (+$300) more. I was all ready to go but the dealer said that less than $1000 price flexibility if the PPI went badly (at 67k clutch is soon or sooner and the last thing I want is to break down in Missisippi and have some characters from Deliverance working on my car while I am being chased around the woods). Then there was a final straw - a $699 dealer prep fee. Add in another $1000 to fly and hotel or same to trailer and it's just too much hassle and waste.
PS - this car disproves my theory that the .1 and .2 difference is less than $15k. In fact it maintains it and the pricing mechanisms on CarGurus lag or don't take in account all sales information IMHO.
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?sourceContext=&newSearchFro mOverviewPage=true&inventorySearchWidgetType=AUTO&entitySelectingHelper. selectedEntity=c7735&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity2=c22961&zip=75 075&distance=50000&searchChanged=true&transmission=M&showNegotiable=fals e&hideFrameDamaged=true&hideSalvage=true&bodyTypeGroupIds=0&maxPrice=520 00&maxMileage=80000&modelChanged=false&filtersModified=true&sortType=PRI CE&sortDirection=ASC#listing=203261888
In the last 48 hours, I've opened up to a manual as being more future proof than a PDK. By future proof I mean total lifetime cost of ownership and for the long run.
I'm looking at cars in the 50k range in both miles and cost and intend to keep the car for life. The way that I drive and the places I drive, clutches should last a good long time. I even came to the conclusion that 325hp is adequate enough because really I am not going to go over 140 or 150 on abandoned roads, not going to track and not going to stoplight race the Mustang next to me. So throw out PDK, Sport Chrono, PASM and all that stuff..
I just want to drive the car long term and enjoy it. With that in mind, I moved to make an offer on this 997.1 after seeing that I could do a 2 step PPI (the first to get over revs and error codes for $150) and based on go/no go of the over rev a full PPI (+$300) more. I was all ready to go but the dealer said that less than $1000 price flexibility if the PPI went badly (at 67k clutch is soon or sooner and the last thing I want is to break down in Missisippi and have some characters from Deliverance working on my car while I am being chased around the woods). Then there was a final straw - a $699 dealer prep fee. Add in another $1000 to fly and hotel or same to trailer and it's just too much hassle and waste.
PS - this car disproves my theory that the .1 and .2 difference is less than $15k. In fact it maintains it and the pricing mechanisms on CarGurus lag or don't take in account all sales information IMHO.
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?sourceContext=&newSearchFro mOverviewPage=true&inventorySearchWidgetType=AUTO&entitySelectingHelper. selectedEntity=c7735&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity2=c22961&zip=75 075&distance=50000&searchChanged=true&transmission=M&showNegotiable=fals e&hideFrameDamaged=true&hideSalvage=true&bodyTypeGroupIds=0&maxPrice=520 00&maxMileage=80000&modelChanged=false&filtersModified=true&sortType=PRI CE&sortDirection=ASC#listing=203261888
#52
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I would suspect finding a brick and mortar dealership that doesn't have any fees will be a hard task ($699 is Florida is cheap for dealer fees, some dealers try to tack on thousands is BS fees), ultimately though if the bottom line total cost didn't work, that is what counts.
#53
Three Wheelin'
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This whole buying experience can be a lot of fun (mine was). Having some perspective on the whole thing can help with that. You are buying a toy. Literally, its a large toy car. Have some fun! You're not selecting a surgeon to perform open heart surgery here. You will indeed live past whatever these choices are..
Drive some, buy one and see how ya feel. At this point even if you bought the wrong one you aren't going to lose money on it if you turn around and pick something else. I'd imagine the pool of cars that fit requirements gets smaller over time. That's a factor too. I went ahead with my GTS purchase ahead of schedule and that was one of the reasons. Over the year I was shopping I watched the supply dwindle from about 15 of the model I wanted down to 6 (this was in 2016). In the time since then I haven't seen the number of cars for sale in that model ever go back up to what it was 2 years ago.. there are still very few for sale at the once. Food for thought.
Drive some, buy one and see how ya feel. At this point even if you bought the wrong one you aren't going to lose money on it if you turn around and pick something else. I'd imagine the pool of cars that fit requirements gets smaller over time. That's a factor too. I went ahead with my GTS purchase ahead of schedule and that was one of the reasons. Over the year I was shopping I watched the supply dwindle from about 15 of the model I wanted down to 6 (this was in 2016). In the time since then I haven't seen the number of cars for sale in that model ever go back up to what it was 2 years ago.. there are still very few for sale at the once. Food for thought.
#54
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I would suspect finding a brick and mortar dealership that doesn't have any fees will be a hard task ($699 is Florida is cheap for dealer fees, some dealers try to tack on thousands is BS fees), ultimately though if the bottom line total cost didn't work, that is what counts.
A quick google search shows the fees between $55 and 700 with some states capping it at $75. Florida is grifting. Just like Texas custom plates that cost $196 annually, while in Kansas it's $45 for 5 years. That's ~ 20X !
#55
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HI Ap - that's nuts. When I've noticed it the fee has been ~$200. Maybe it's a Florida thing or maybe I am still learning. IMHO - they should run the error code and over rev report and include in the cost of selling. It's BS that each buyer has to and cars that have been on the market 3 months haven't at least had one person get to that stage. I understand is that 2 copies are typically produced - 1 to the prospective buyer and 1 to the seller.
A quick google search shows the fees between $55 and 700 with some states capping it at $75. Florida is grifting. Just like Texas custom plates that cost $196 annually, while in Kansas it's $45 for 5 years. That's ~ 20X !
A quick google search shows the fees between $55 and 700 with some states capping it at $75. Florida is grifting. Just like Texas custom plates that cost $196 annually, while in Kansas it's $45 for 5 years. That's ~ 20X !
Honestly I don't know how I feel about accepting inspection data from the selling dealer, done ahead of time or part of the purchase, big time conflict of interest. Computer diagnostic data maybe, but I want to be paying the guy who tells me whether the car is worth buying or not.
#56
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Honestly I don't know how I feel about accepting inspection data from the selling dealer, done ahead of time or part of the purchase, big time conflict of interest. Computer diagnostic data maybe, but I want to be paying the guy who tells me whether the car is worth buying or not.
#57
Three Wheelin'
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Bruce - thanks again I read that entire first year - very interesting. I am getting a little dismayed from the forums and trying to keep all of this in perspective (IMS/RMS/bore scoring/failed PDKs and death by a 1000 cuts).
In the last 48 hours, I've opened up to a manual as being more future proof than a PDK. By future proof I mean total lifetime cost of ownership and for the long run.
I'm looking at cars in the 50k range in both miles and cost and intend to keep the car for life. The way that I drive and the places I drive, clutches should last a good long time. I even came to the conclusion that 325hp is adequate enough because really I am not going to go over 140 or 150 on abandoned roads, not going to track and not going to stoplight race the Mustang next to me. So throw out PDK, Sport Chrono, PASM and all that stuff..
I just want to drive the car long term and enjoy it. With that in mind, I moved to make an offer on this 997.1 after seeing that I could do a 2 step PPI (the first to get over revs and error codes for $150) and based on go/no go of the over rev a full PPI (+$300) more. I was all ready to go but the dealer said that less than $1000 price flexibility if the PPI went badly (at 67k clutch is soon or sooner and the last thing I want is to break down in Missisippi and have some characters from Deliverance working on my car while I am being chased around the woods). Then there was a final straw - a $699 dealer prep fee. Add in another $1000 to fly and hotel or same to trailer and it's just too much hassle and waste.
PS - this car disproves my theory that the .1 and .2 difference is less than $15k. In fact it maintains it and the pricing mechanisms on CarGurus lag or don't take in account all sales information IMHO.
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...ting=203261888
In the last 48 hours, I've opened up to a manual as being more future proof than a PDK. By future proof I mean total lifetime cost of ownership and for the long run.
I'm looking at cars in the 50k range in both miles and cost and intend to keep the car for life. The way that I drive and the places I drive, clutches should last a good long time. I even came to the conclusion that 325hp is adequate enough because really I am not going to go over 140 or 150 on abandoned roads, not going to track and not going to stoplight race the Mustang next to me. So throw out PDK, Sport Chrono, PASM and all that stuff..
I just want to drive the car long term and enjoy it. With that in mind, I moved to make an offer on this 997.1 after seeing that I could do a 2 step PPI (the first to get over revs and error codes for $150) and based on go/no go of the over rev a full PPI (+$300) more. I was all ready to go but the dealer said that less than $1000 price flexibility if the PPI went badly (at 67k clutch is soon or sooner and the last thing I want is to break down in Missisippi and have some characters from Deliverance working on my car while I am being chased around the woods). Then there was a final straw - a $699 dealer prep fee. Add in another $1000 to fly and hotel or same to trailer and it's just too much hassle and waste.
PS - this car disproves my theory that the .1 and .2 difference is less than $15k. In fact it maintains it and the pricing mechanisms on CarGurus lag or don't take in account all sales information IMHO.
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...ting=203261888
If you like the red interior then you have a lot of negotiating room. I saw a similar looking 997.1 C4S with <40k miles sit on the market for 6 months because of the red interior. So give him a lowball price and tell him to call you when he's ready to talk.
And to @Fined's point, yea I enjoyed the buying process. The seller gave me a PPI checklist which helped but I still didnt trust it. We agreed on the price subject to me flying down and getting an independent PPI. I flew down for the night, took a quick spin in the car the next morning with him and he gave me the keys to bring it over to RAC Performance for the PPI. It was good to spend a few hours with the car alone. The PPI came out clean, I got some good Texas BBQ, haggled a couple minor issues, shook hands on it and mailed him a check the next day. Uship had the car picked up a few days later and it was at my house a week after that. Super easy. Shipping from Texas to SF cost $800 and they upgraded me to an enclosed trailer for free when they saw it was a Porsche.
As for 325 HP, ive never said "I wish I had more power". Its got all I want. Anything more and I would get myself into trouble.
You can see how a base model looks like with Eibachs on it: my car on the left, vs the stock S suspension height on the right.
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/fullsizeoutput_2ca5_d36ee615f6d4cec0cee72f8a867f078249af3d63.jpeg)
#58
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My vote is .2
For the money, the nicer interior, performance, lighting, etc. is worth it.
For the money, the nicer interior, performance, lighting, etc. is worth it.
#59
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Swingwing and SandWedge you are absolutely 100% correct.
In my work I often do surveying and data analysis and was considering doing (offering) the same with the 997 forum and Porsches in general to make a buying/pricing guide to take in all of the variables (condition, age, mileage, history, options, colors, etc) and then I realized - none of that matters.
Porsches aren't fungible and they aren't logical decisions, they are purely EMOTIONAL and most every buyer and seller knows this.
For me, $5k is a rounding error especially over the long term. The right car (a 997.2 in my case and color and option choices) will be worth the going rate.
(Swingwing, I've already admired your car in the 'silver thread and would gladly buy yours from you today - cash. I could be in Colleyville by 11:00 after I get my haircut). (grin)
So it's not P by A or any other psychology - just learning the motivations and having patience for the right car to come along.
Wpgb - you seem bitter and cynical - I'm learning here, what are you doing to add value to the conversation ?
In my work I often do surveying and data analysis and was considering doing (offering) the same with the 997 forum and Porsches in general to make a buying/pricing guide to take in all of the variables (condition, age, mileage, history, options, colors, etc) and then I realized - none of that matters.
Porsches aren't fungible and they aren't logical decisions, they are purely EMOTIONAL and most every buyer and seller knows this.
For me, $5k is a rounding error especially over the long term. The right car (a 997.2 in my case and color and option choices) will be worth the going rate.
(Swingwing, I've already admired your car in the 'silver thread and would gladly buy yours from you today - cash. I could be in Colleyville by 11:00 after I get my haircut). (grin)
So it's not P by A or any other psychology - just learning the motivations and having patience for the right car to come along.
Wpgb - you seem bitter and cynical - I'm learning here, what are you doing to add value to the conversation ?
#60
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I was there but after my visit to RAC, more research and considering what I really want the car for I am evolving my choices. I don't see myself racing, tracking, going over 140 or stop light drag racing.