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997.2 Brake Fluid Change

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Old 04-09-2018, 10:47 PM
  #1  
docdrs
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Default 997.2 Brake Fluid Change

Skill level ... easy

Tools
11 mm wrench
split flat screwdriver
Motive European Bleeder
lisle bleader cup
100 ml syringe
1 Litre ATE 200 Dot 4 brake fluid
car jacking and tire removal

I had the day off so decided to do this as Its been at least 2 plus years since last done.
I tried to attempt it without tire removal but after a few minutes of frigin around and a pump jack within 8 feet I just removed the tires
Getting the rubber caps off the bleeder fittings was the worst part of the entire procedurs.
It was the first use of the Motive so I put it together and pressurized the system ( I used the no fluid in the container method). Since the fluid looked quite clear and clean I decided to bleed off 100 ml ( what the cup holds) to test things. I then sucked the remainder out of the fluid reservoir. The reservoir holds approxiametely 300 ml of fluid




So that leaves 700 ml to bleed the system.
I ran 175 ml thru the outside bleed valve of the right rear brake , then another 50 ml thru the inside right rear valve
The left rear I ran 150 outer and 50 inner
The right front 100 outer 25 inner
The left front 75 outer 25 inner

Total change 950 ml , 650 ml thru the lines, 300 in the reservoir. This left about 50 ml for a safety margin. The volumes are close but approximate.

Probably took me about 2 hours due to all the measuring. It should be noted that the reservoir is split into a rear and front half, and I could not get the fluid out of the front half, probably about 50 ml
I had the rear jacked up when I emptied the reservoir, I probably could have gotten mor out if the front was jacked when emptying the reservoir and filling it with new. Knowing the reservoir contains about 400 ml when filled to the rim its easy to not run it dry, but it only takes about 2 minutes to refill it and re presurize it.

Test drive..... firm pedal fast braking , but then it was pretty good prior. But the butt and psychological factor says its better because its new.
Old 04-09-2018, 10:52 PM
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ajayabb
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Nice work. Thanks for the tutorial
Old 04-10-2018, 08:50 AM
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Presto
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I did the same myself with a motive power bleeder. Apart from the motive pump having a manufacturing defect everything went smooth. I used up about the same amount. Just a tad under 1000ml, probably 975ml approx. my fluid had boiled over from a track day so flushing out with new fluid made a huge difference to brake pedal feel.

Last edited by Presto; 04-10-2018 at 10:51 AM.
Old 04-10-2018, 09:51 AM
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Petza914
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Originally Posted by Presto
I did the same myself with a motive power bleeder. Apart from the motive pump hanging a defect everything went smooth. I used up about the same amount. Just a tad under 1000ml, probably 975ml approx. my fluid had boiled over from a track day so flushing out with new fluid made a huge difference to brake pedal feel.
If you boiled the fluid you should make a change to Motul RBF600 or 660 and just flush it every year if no track time or after each track day. You won't boil that stuff.
Old 04-10-2018, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Petza914
If you boiled the fluid you should make a change to Motul RBF600 or 660 and just flush it every year if no track time or after each track day. You won't boil that stuff.
Yes I did use rbf660. Hopefully that should take care of it.
Old 04-10-2018, 10:59 AM
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Petza914
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Originally Posted by Presto
Yes I did use rbf660. Hopefully that should take care of it.
It will or you need to change your braking technique
Old 04-10-2018, 11:26 AM
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drob23
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Originally Posted by Petza914
If you boiled the fluid you should make a change to Motul RBF600 or 660 and just flush it every year if no track time or after each track day. You won't boil that stuff.
The wet boiling point of the RBF660 or 600 is not very high (something like 420 deg F). The dry boiling point is really high, I believe race cars will completely flush RBF after every race to ensure the fluid is fresh. Brake fluid is hydroscopic - will absorb water to prevent internal hardware from rusting.

For the weekend warrior, I really prefer Castrol SRF, the wet boiling point is nearly the same as the dry boiling point (around 500 deg F). So in my S4 (a massive car with lots of HP) which I tracked maybe 4 times a year, I would replace the SRF fluid completely before the season, and then maybe purge the calipers every other session just to be safe. The cost of SRF is high ($65 for 1L, vs ~$20 for .5L of RBF), but in my opinion the added cost is negligible if you track the car. I've gone off track due to boiling brake fluid and it's not fun Never had any fluid related issues with the S4 after switching to Castrol SRF (I have a stoptech bbk on that car).
Old 04-10-2018, 12:15 PM
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HenryPcar
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Originally Posted by Presto
I did the same myself with a motive power bleeder. Apart from the motive pump having a manufacturing defect everything went smooth. I used up about the same amount. Just a tad under 1000ml, probably 975ml approx. my fluid had boiled over from a track day so flushing out with new fluid made a huge difference to brake pedal feel.
The cause of brake fade is not solely due to boiling brake fluid. There are other factors such as street pads vs racing pads. Sometimes the street pads while work very well on the street will overheat on the track.
Old 04-10-2018, 02:33 PM
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3Series
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Originally Posted by docdrs
Skill level ... easy

Tools
11 mm wrench
split flat screwdriver
Motive European Bleeder
lisle bleader cup
100 ml syringe
1 Litre ATE 200 Dot 4 brake fluid
car jacking and tire removal

I had the day off so decided to do this as Its been at least 2 plus years since last done.
I tried to attempt it without tire removal but after a few minutes of frigin around and a pump jack within 8 feet I just removed the tires
Getting the rubber caps off the bleeder fittings was the worst part of the entire procedurs.
It was the first use of the Motive so I put it together and pressurized the system ( I used the no fluid in the container method). Since the fluid looked quite clear and clean I decided to bleed off 100 ml ( what the cup holds) to test things. I then sucked the remainder out of the fluid reservoir. The reservoir holds approxiametely 300 ml of fluid




So that leaves 700 ml to bleed the system.
I ran 175 ml thru the outside bleed valve of the right rear brake , then another 50 ml thru the inside right rear valve
The left rear I ran 150 outer and 50 inner
The right front 100 outer 25 inner
The left front 75 outer 25 inner

Total change 950 ml , 650 ml thru the lines, 300 in the reservoir. This left about 50 ml for a safety margin. The volumes are close but approximate.

Probably took me about 2 hours due to all the measuring. It should be noted that the reservoir is split into a rear and front half, and I could not get the fluid out of the front half, probably about 50 ml
I had the rear jacked up when I emptied the reservoir, I probably could have gotten mor out if the front was jacked when emptying the reservoir and filling it with new. Knowing the reservoir contains about 400 ml when filled to the rim its easy to not run it dry, but it only takes about 2 minutes to refill it and re presurize it.

Test drive..... firm pedal fast braking , but then it was pretty good prior. But the butt and psychological factor says its better because its new.
Nice job. 2 Hours is about right while including time to get out the tools and to clean up. I’ve flushed and bled brake fluid dozens of times. Same with changing rotors and brake pads and everyone seems to under exaggerate the time it takes, sort of like commuting.
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Old 04-10-2018, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 3Series


Nice job. 2 Hours is about right while including time to get out the tools and to clean up. I’ve flushed and bled brake fluid dozens of times. Same with changing rotors and brake pads and everyone seems to under exaggerate the time it takes, sort of like commuting.
It actually took way longer with all my interuptions......lunch, hold the dog while the groomer cuts her, have a coffee and decide jacking up the whole rear rather than just one corner at a time would have been quicker, trying to get the little bit of fluid out of the front of the reservoir, having a coffee, answering the phone, my wife coming out every 15 minutes asking me if I'm done yet or asking what I want for lunch or asking me if I know dog groomer will be here at 1:30 or telling me the dog groomer will be here soon or telling me the dog groomer is in the driveway, we are going to take you out for dinner for doing such a good job holding the dog for the dog groomer for 2.5 hours or more .
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Old 04-10-2018, 09:32 PM
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Did you bleed the clutch?
Old 04-10-2018, 10:52 PM
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Petza914
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Originally Posted by Lvt19672
Did you bleed the clutch?
The clutch master in a 997.2 is self-bleeding, unlike the 997.1 where it has to be separately bled.
Old 04-11-2018, 12:23 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by docdrs


It actually took way longer with all my interuptions......lunch, hold the dog while the groomer cuts her, have a coffee and decide jacking up the whole rear rather than just one corner at a time would have been quicker, trying to get the little bit of fluid out of the front of the reservoir, having a coffee, answering the phone, my wife coming out every 15 minutes asking me if I'm done yet or asking what I want for lunch or asking me if I know dog groomer will be here at 1:30 or telling me the dog groomer will be here soon or telling me the dog groomer is in the driveway, we are going to take you out for dinner for doing such a good job holding the dog for the dog groomer for 2.5 hours or more .
I'm surprised you got anything done. Did you get the dog to help, or the groomer?
Old 08-01-2018, 12:53 PM
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Thanks for the details! I never know how much fluid to push through. How do you determine the right amounts?
Old 08-01-2018, 10:29 PM
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docdrs
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Originally Posted by loungin
Thanks for the details! I never know how much fluid to push through. How do you determine the right amounts?
I used the bleeder cup to roughly determine how much I bled thru each brake. Using quick math and knowing I wanted the most at RR then LR then RF and least at LF I divided the amount available by the numerical distance to each and came up with the appropriate values. In other words I ball parked it.


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