shekmark

kcheves

Your description of the problem makes it sound like this is happening with the gear engaged, which would not normally point to a clutch problem,

shyamvenky

Did you just shift into 6th and floor it? Tach rising much quicker than speed.. I think this is an early sign of clutch going out. I had it happen to my old 997 - I noticed a subtle change in the pedal feel - wasn't able to explain it well to my Tech and he anyways didn't see the difference (he doesn't drive my car everyday.. I do). For a few days after that I continued to do the clutch-slip experiments in various gears till I saw some good slipping in 3rd, 4th itself. Then the Tech was able to see it too and we had a clutch kit ordered.

shekmark

shekmark

bhvrdr

not holding power could be overheated or damaged friction material, pressure plate issue, or fluid leaked on disc or glazing

mike

Smitten

Those are clear signs of a failing clutch. What exactly has failed is of secondary importance, and you won't know until you drop the transaxle and pull the clutch. At that point, you'll replace at least all friction material and throw out bearing, no matter what.

shyamvenky

Yes, quite a few things could result in slipping. It could be as small as a few of the fingers in the diaphragm spring (happened to me on my old 3.2 Carrera) or the entire disc is disintegrating
I haven't heard of anyone just replacing the clutch disc alone.. it's almost always the "assembly"

TheBruce

Yea sounds like clutch is slipping. Could also be a broken pressure plate. Mine crapped out at 50k miles. The clutch disk itself had lots of life left but a finger cracked on the pressure plate after hitting a pothole with the clutch depressed. I immediately felt a minor vibration in the pedal and then a few days later the clutch started slipping in higher gears.

On the plus side at 50k miles you wont need to replace your flywheel so you are only looking at ~$600 for the clutch disk, throw bearing and pressure plate and 8hrs of labor to install.

Petza914

+1 that its clutch slipping

yvesvidal

Yes, I had the same symptoms on my 997.1 (2006). Time for a new clutch..... All the details are in there: http://murenae.com/FTP_Files/997.1-Clutch-Work.pdf

Yves

shekmark

That's what I thought. Thanks for the replies. OK...would there be any good reason to also change the flywheel at this point even if it looks OK? Also, are there clutch upgrades to consider at this time? No racing in my future as it's a cab , but probably autocross and a DE now and then.

bhvrdr

I'd stay away from anything aftermarket when it comes to clutches for as long as you can. OEM Sachs clutches are very hard to beat.

RockAuto has your clutch kit for $568....

SACHS K7053001

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...445370&jsn=364

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...lutch+kit,1993

I'd try and re-use the flywheel as long as its not damaged.

Mike

yvesvidal

When re-using the flywheel, check carefully the teeth where the starter engages. Since the starter always hits the same teeth on the main crown, they take a lot of beating.
Replacing the flywheel is an expensive proposition in itself, but it becomes actually quite cheap in comparison to the labor cost involved in replacing it.

Yves

bhvrdr

If you do need to pick up a flywheel you can pick up the OEM LUK DMF135 for $584 at rockauto as well.... that compares to over a grand that Pelican is selling it for and $1300 for the same OEM one sold by them.

Mike