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Question re torquing engine mounts

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Old 12-05-2017, 03:28 PM
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cosm3os
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Default Question re torquing engine mounts

How do you torque the bottom nuts? It occurred to me that the nut won't torque until it meets up with the bottom of the carrier. But the bottom of the carrier will be at different heights relative to the mount bolt depending on how high you raise the motor with the jack. I didn't see any reference to the solution in either of the DIYs. Thanks!
Old 12-05-2017, 03:34 PM
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Bruce In Philly
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The engine hangs... Jack the engine until the chassis starts to move upward. Then torque the bolt as the engine now has no influence.

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Old 12-05-2017, 04:22 PM
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WhipE350
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Originally Posted by cosm3os
But the bottom of the carrier will be at different heights relative to the mount bolt depending on how high you raise the motor with the jack.
I thought AFTER I had done it that the torqueing actually did put it at the right height. It is hard to be sure since I did the lift engine and then back off slightly method too. It did seem to me though that the torque amount was enough to lift the right amount. I would have to do it again to see for sure...but since I just did this I won't need them again for a long time . I know I didn't answer the question but mine turned out right.
Old 12-05-2017, 06:37 PM
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cosm3os
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Bruce, then isn't the distance up the threaded shaft you have to go to get the spec dictated by how high you raise the engine? Eventually, its the weight of the engine against the nut that causes the stretch to get the spec, no?
Old 12-05-2017, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by cosm3os
Bruce, then isn't the distance up the threaded shaft you have to go to get the spec dictated by how high you raise the engine? Eventually, its the weight of the engine against the nut that causes the stretch to get the spec, no?
The engine hangs on the mount held there by that nut. The engine then "swings" from the mounts. The engine rests on that nut. If you jack the engine without the nut, at some point the engine hits the chassis (at the mounts) and you begin to lift the entire car. Now you can torqe the nut as the engine now weighs 0 lbs to the nut. If the engine is not pressed up against the car the nut won't be tightened down all the way as the engine weight will throw off the actual torque applied. The nut will be too loose.
Old 12-05-2017, 09:16 PM
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Ok. That's what I was thinking. I just wasn't understanding your explanation.
Old 12-05-2017, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Bruce In Philly
...the nut won't be tightened down all the way as the engine weight will throw off the actual torque applied. The nut will be too loose.
Bruce I did mine exactly as you explained because it seemed logical and I followed write ups on it. Question though regarding the above quote. Did you read this somewhere? I wasn't sure it the torquing of the nut was enough to raise the engine to the right point. I made sure my engine was flush but not pushed too high. I then torqued and the engine hung from the mount posts.
Old 12-06-2017, 10:16 AM
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2009 C2S

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...s-porsche.html

The above link is my DIY on engine mounts..... I should have read it before I posted as I need to make a clarification...... 1st) I am just a dope on the 'net..... YMMV. 2) I am making a ton of assumptions, however this is not canine brain surgery either as basic mechanical principles still apply to the Porsche universe.

Assumption: The hanging engine adds to the resistance of the nut and therefore "uses up" some of the torque applied via your torque wrench. If you crank the nut and then lift the engine with it (as it moves to be pressed up against the chassis), you are not tightening the nut to proper spec. How do I know this? I am guessing.... it just makes mechanical sense to me. I did not read this in a manual.

Clarification: If your car is sitting on its suspension and all you are doing is jacking the engine, then when the chassis starts to move, you still may not have a neutral weight of the engine as the springs are now unloading... If you really want 0 weight, jack the back of the car up so the tires are off of the ground, then jack the engine... then when the chassis moves you are 100% unloaded. For me, I just used my judgement... good or bad, thats what I did.

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Bruce in Philly
Old 12-06-2017, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by cosm3os
Bruce, then isn't the distance up the threaded shaft you have to go to get the spec dictated by how high you raise the engine? Eventually, its the weight of the engine against the nut that causes the stretch to get the spec, no?
You may be correct..... if so, then either method is fine. My logic was remove the moving, hanging engine from the equation and torque the nut. It seemed less variable.... you may have removed only one mount or both..... just seemed less variable to me. If you removed just one mount at a time, the engine could be crooked.... important? I dunno.... But, you may be correct and then it does not matter. Jacking the engine is easy to do so no big deal to me.

Edit: what if the engine sticks as you torque the nut? I think jacking the engine up against the chassis would remove this possibility. A real concern? I dunno.

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Bruce in Philly

Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 12-06-2017 at 04:45 PM.
Old 12-06-2017, 06:46 PM
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Another critical aspect of this is to make sure the square bottom on the motor mount is correctly aligned with the square hole in the engine carrier. If not, when you try to tighten the nut, you will just spin the bottom of the mount. What I do is jack the motor up into position where the squares are aligned, then bring the nut on the bottom of the mount up to hold the motor at that height, then release the jack and tighten to the proper torque for the motor mount nut.



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