Anyone in SoCal know this car?
#16
motor mounts cost a few hun and can be installed in an hour. tires and other *normal* items are gonna be a "pay now" and/or.. but definitely pay later proposition. the cars are still porsches and commensurately costly to DRIVE. sitting in a garage is free lol
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
The HVAC control should be easy to replace given that I was already planning on removing the CD-ROM for a storage shelf and putting in a bluetooth harness. I was expecting to replace the rears, but if the fronts are from 2011 they should probably go too.
#19
Thank you for your input, esp. regarding the boost issue, didn't realize how common that was. I thought the DME was fine. Totally get the expense with these, just don't want to dump a bunch of cash into a car at too high of a purchase price for mileage.
The HVAC control should be easy to replace given that I was already planning on removing the CD-ROM for a storage shelf and putting in a bluetooth harness. I was expecting to replace the rears, but if the fronts are from 2011 they should probably go too.
The HVAC control should be easy to replace given that I was already planning on removing the CD-ROM for a storage shelf and putting in a bluetooth harness. I was expecting to replace the rears, but if the fronts are from 2011 they should probably go too.
as to boost leaks, yes, they are in fact so common that a good 50% of the time you can find them by checking the i/c hoses ( clips lose their retentive ability after years..) and tugging on the y-pipe while navigating bit further up the intake path. btw the TB and the plenum and the infamous #16 check valves.. seek? and therein you ( or your tech ) shall probably "find". its most always about the "intake" and in fact thats about the most accessible stuff on the car! given its location in the engine bay...pressure test w a homemade kit is what many of us do at the turbos.
bottom line: dont be putoff if you're not a diy'r either. i am not either but I've learned thru experience and while standing there attentively while handing a pal sockets and beer
if ya don't have at LEAST one boost leak a year? you're not driving the car as hans intended lol.
btw lapis is by far one of the *best* color choices for this car. but.. graphite gray interior? not so much! hah
add: re your dme pic.. cant help as i no zero, about any radio/hvac codes sorry...
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
yeah well again, tires are tires. while its nice to have fresh rubber that usually (always?) reflected in price one way or another. i go thru 2.5 sets of rears a year without "tracking". so its pay to play
as to boost leaks, yes, they are in fact so common that a good 50% of the time you can find them by checking the i/c hoses ( clips lose their retentive ability after years..) and tugging on the y-pipe while navigating bit further up the intake path. btw the TB and the plenum and the infamous #16 check valves.. seek? and therein you ( or your tech ) shall probably "find". its most always about the "intake" and in fact thats about the most accessible stuff on the car! given its location in the engine bay...pressure test w a homemade kit is what many of us do at the turbos.
bottom line: dont be putoff if you're not a diy'r either. i am not either but I've learned thru experience and while standing there attentively while handing a pal sockets and beer
if ya don't have at LEAST one boost leak a year? you're not driving the car as hans intended lol.
btw lapis is by far one of the *best* color choices for this car. but.. graphite gray interior? not so much! hah
add: re your dme pic.. cant help as i no zero, about any radio/hvac codes sorry...
as to boost leaks, yes, they are in fact so common that a good 50% of the time you can find them by checking the i/c hoses ( clips lose their retentive ability after years..) and tugging on the y-pipe while navigating bit further up the intake path. btw the TB and the plenum and the infamous #16 check valves.. seek? and therein you ( or your tech ) shall probably "find". its most always about the "intake" and in fact thats about the most accessible stuff on the car! given its location in the engine bay...pressure test w a homemade kit is what many of us do at the turbos.
bottom line: dont be putoff if you're not a diy'r either. i am not either but I've learned thru experience and while standing there attentively while handing a pal sockets and beer
if ya don't have at LEAST one boost leak a year? you're not driving the car as hans intended lol.
btw lapis is by far one of the *best* color choices for this car. but.. graphite gray interior? not so much! hah
add: re your dme pic.. cant help as i no zero, about any radio/hvac codes sorry...
#21
cant say as i blame you! GL hope it works out. again, from my armchair it seems ok, but you need good "eyes on" it in person or a trusted advisor. tough to buy a car eBay or LD without at the least apprehension, and at worst? you get a pig in a poke! I'm not sure i could buy one without driving it etc. again.. GL
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
cant say as i blame you! GL hope it works out. again, from my armchair it seems ok, but you need good "eyes on" it in person or a trusted advisor. tough to buy a car eBay or LD without at the least appreshension, at worst? you get a pig in a poke! I'm not sure i could buy one without driving it etc. again.. GL
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
I've moved on and am working on purchasing this one:
http://www.milpasmotors.com/2002_Por...CA_8912353.veh
PPI was done by Schneider Autohaus, DME showed 15997 type I and 45 type II.
They are fixing the rear tail light lens and wiring harness, PPI also noted that the "center radiator air outlet broken." I am unclear on the significance of this, any help?
http://www.milpasmotors.com/2002_Por...CA_8912353.veh
PPI was done by Schneider Autohaus, DME showed 15997 type I and 45 type II.
They are fixing the rear tail light lens and wiring harness, PPI also noted that the "center radiator air outlet broken." I am unclear on the significance of this, any help?
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
I've moved on and am working on purchasing this one:
http://www.milpasmotors.com/2002_Por...CA_8912353.veh
PPI was done by Schneider Autohaus, DME showed 15997 type I and 45 type II.
They are fixing the rear tail light lens and wiring harness, PPI also noted that the "center radiator air outlet broken." I am unclear on the significance of this, any help?
http://www.milpasmotors.com/2002_Por...CA_8912353.veh
PPI was done by Schneider Autohaus, DME showed 15997 type I and 45 type II.
They are fixing the rear tail light lens and wiring harness, PPI also noted that the "center radiator air outlet broken." I am unclear on the significance of this, any help?
#26
Instructor
Thread Starter
1420.8 total. The PPI printout doesn't break down the ignitions by hour.
Just wondering if that description of the air outlet on the center radiator means the whole radiator needs replaced....
Just wondering if that description of the air outlet on the center radiator means the whole radiator needs replaced....
#27
"45" type 2's is nothing nothing to be concerned about, either is a radiator. don't really know what is meant by "air outlet" but they may mean the plastic ends? NBD to r&r. like a cpl hours labor ( max ) and a 400 part.
#28
Drifting
If the coolant outlet is damaged, the the radiator will have to be replaced.
#30
Three Wheelin'
Center radiator air outlet could be referring to the outlet duct on the back of the radiator that directs the air under the car, rather than to an actual coolant/water pipe issue.