Deal of the century???
#46
Odd... my research showed that 997.1tt has possible cam shaft issues and that 996tt do not suffer from this problem.
I'm curious as why this shop decides to replace cam shaft actuators when the valve lift is stuck?
I'm curious as why this shop decides to replace cam shaft actuators when the valve lift is stuck?
#47
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...code-help.html
About the fact the shop is looking at cam shaft actuator, in the aviation we call that shotgun troubleshooting. You replace every parts until you fix the snag
#48
Looking at that parts list, they are replacing the variocam timing actuators (PN# 99610530371). Not the variocam lift actuators (these would be PN# 99610530172). The variocam timing actuators are on top of the cylinder heads, the lift actuators are in the spark plug valley.
The fault specifically calls out valve lift...oh boy. doesn't seem like this shop knows what is going on. If you get it, good thing you have a 2nd 996TT to pull parts from to replace the issues this one may have
I'm not saying not to get it, just hope you know how to/like to work on these cars.
The fault specifically calls out valve lift...oh boy. doesn't seem like this shop knows what is going on. If you get it, good thing you have a 2nd 996TT to pull parts from to replace the issues this one may have
I'm not saying not to get it, just hope you know how to/like to work on these cars.
text from owner:
insurance inspector approved the lifters. Joe also told me the actuators could use replacing. Not a "need to have" but he said I should take care of it since the engine is out. I agreed to replace the two actuators as well. This way, the issue won't bite you down the road. They are looking to finish everything by Friday. so...in excited to get the car back. I'm honestly craving to drive it
#49
unsorted cause the shop replaced lifters and 2 actuators???? let's assume the problem goes away. Oil change, Plugs, coilpacks, fuel pump, filter, injectors, alternator and clutch have been replaced in last 5000 miles.
ya that's pretty unsorted. "maybe" if they'd dropped a new motor in it then it would be well sorted in your mind???!!!
For goodness sake the thing's had a comprehensive warranty for the last 30000 miles. Maybe he just ran it with the CEL for the last 30000 miles cause he didn't want to waste the shops time and thought he could just sell it to someone else and not deal with any issues.
He's put 10000 miles per year on it in the last 3 years. a couple of warranty claims and regular maintenance. what more is a person supposed to do!!!!!
I have experience with 2 of the 3 people you mention and they are wizards but there are more than 3 people on this earth that can do a proper PPI.
No wait- maybe we should ship it back to the factory and have them refurbish the whole car. Oh no that wouldn't do unless sam, kevin or markski was there to make sure they were doing it right.
so say it is a 3000 dollar fix. then id have a 35000 dollar x50
I just saw a 2003 that sold last month with 79000 miles for 50000. great color combo
but even if i put 10 into this 2004 I'd be at 42000 which is what a "well sorted" x50 is more likely to go for this spring summer. (likely more)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272516584549?rmvSB=true
i do appreciate everyones concern and advice. As I stated before I'm going to drive it for 100 miles or so. have cantrell do a ppi and armed with the info I'll make a decision.
#50
uwrasta, since the engine has to come out, you may want to suggest him having the coolant lines pinned or welded. Then offer to add the cost of that to the price that you have agreed upon. It's a perfect inexpensive "while you've got the motor out" thing to do and peace of mind as well. But if it hasn't already been done and you have to drop the motor to do it, it becomes expensive as you have to drop the motor to reach them all.
#51
you're right not to be "alarmed" and you're doing all due diligence. it's not a friggin spacehip just discovered and the sky isn't falling though you wouldnt know to hear chicken little tell it.
i'd wager that after figuring out these last cpl remaining "issues", you'll have a very good car at a great price.
i'd wager that after figuring out these last cpl remaining "issues", you'll have a very good car at a great price.
#52
Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
uwrasta, since the engine has to come out, you may want to suggest him having the coolant lines pinned or welded. Then offer to add the cost of that to the price that you have agreed upon. It's a perfect inexpensive "while you've got the motor out" thing to do and peace of mind as well. But if it hasn't already been done and you have to drop the motor to do it, it becomes expensive as you have to drop the motor to reach them all.
I'm also waiting to hear from a shop in Canada for a pin quote. I had my 993 top end and clutch done there. I asked if they could drop and I could be there to learn. Still waiting to hear back. That might be a great opportunity to get a detailed diy w/photos from start to finish to start. Told him he could throw me in the pacific if the car fell on me.
#53
Believe me I asked!!! I just didn't want to pay for a pin and then have the ppi come back a reject. If it comes down to it it will be a good opportunity to learn to drop!!!! Also I respect sambo's opinion. He told me to just drive the damn thing and worry about it if it happens.
I'm also waiting to hear from a shop in Canada for a pin quote. I had my 993 top end and clutch done there. I asked if they could drop and I could be there to learn. Still waiting to hear back. That might be a great opportunity to get a detailed diy w/photos from start to finish to start. Told him he could throw me in the pacific if the car fell on me.
I'm also waiting to hear from a shop in Canada for a pin quote. I had my 993 top end and clutch done there. I asked if they could drop and I could be there to learn. Still waiting to hear back. That might be a great opportunity to get a detailed diy w/photos from start to finish to start. Told him he could throw me in the pacific if the car fell on me.
#55
Yes, remove the heat shield. The bracket is right there In between the spark plugs. Two 10mm bolts hold in place.
If the brackets are fine there is a way to bench test the solenoids. I have not a bench test but I think some others here have. Maybe someone will chime in with that procedure.
Are you getting any codes?
If the brackets are fine there is a way to bench test the solenoids. I have not a bench test but I think some others here have. Maybe someone will chime in with that procedure.
Are you getting any codes?
If anyone has these issues and codes and lets say for example- it is misfires on bank 1, and the bracket isn't broken, swap the valve lift actuators from one bank to the other and see if the codes follow to the other bank. Pain in the *** way to test if it is fully functional, but if the codes move you know which actuator is bad.
#57
Originally Posted by jeanmarcboilard
I know the PPi isn't today but I hope they do get that car sorted out and you get a good deal. Keep us informed.
#58
#59
#60
Originally Posted by PaleAle
My rear coolant fitting failed on a city street. I recommend you get them pinned/welded while the engine is out.