Coupe vs Convertible
09-18-2016, 02:21 PM
#33
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Location: Oregon
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Hey, good luck on the purchase. I literally just bought a 996 turbo about 2 weeks ago. Mine is a Coupe and I am awaiting delivery for it (couldn't get away from work to go bring it home myself). As for the convertible vs. coupe business, if you don't mind the look of the rag top, get it. Absolutely get it. Having owned convertibles in Alaska, Eastern Washington State, and Michigan, I can tell you that when you put the heater on in cold weather, which you would do anyway, you don't notice a difference. You would probably get a little more wind/road noise, but I thought it was dailyable 
Just my two cents. Also, my dad had an old Saab 900 turbo with a rag top, also in Alaska, and he didn't have a problem with it at all. Though his car had heated seats 
Let us know how the hunt goes!
Cheers,
Just my two cents. Also, my dad had an old Saab 900 turbo with a rag top, also in Alaska, and he didn't have a problem with it at all. Though his car had heated seats Let us know how the hunt goes!Cheers,
09-18-2016, 02:46 PM
#34
I had my 74 delivered by Intercity and I was quite happy. Certainly not the cheapest, but moving good cars is all they do and they operate their own trucks. A bunch of companies will charge you less but will only act as brokers, handing out the job to one of many subcontractors. If I were you I'd make an effort to go either with a local guy who can be trusted in the extreme (like recommended personally by someone with credibility and a reputation to maintain) or one of the large companies (intercity, reliable, etc.).
Be prepared to wait several weeks before you get your car. Scheduling a pickup again can take two or three weeks easily.
Be prepared to wait several weeks before you get your car. Scheduling a pickup again can take two or three weeks easily.
09-18-2016, 03:27 PM
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Cheers,
09-18-2016, 08:46 PM
#37
Burning Brakes
Good luck having a truck shipping company pick up any insurance tab. Lol... I ship heavy equipment 5-10x a week with most being between 100-200k and you may as well try to pull some hens teeth if you think you're going to get the trucker's insurance to pay for anything... and if you do get them to pay it won't be the full amount and it will take a LOOOONNNNGGG time to get the check.
Don't hire a broker (like we do)... hire a reputable company and have it done right. It's worth the couple hundred extra. If you're balking at that couple hundred extra you're buying the wrong car and setting yourself up for a disaster of an ownership experience.
Don't hire a broker (like we do)... hire a reputable company and have it done right. It's worth the couple hundred extra. If you're balking at that couple hundred extra you're buying the wrong car and setting yourself up for a disaster of an ownership experience.
09-19-2016, 03:09 PM
#44
Layman speak
They are 2 engine health metrics that in general test the same parts of the engine in different ways.
Leakdown is an amount of pressurized air through the spark plug hole that gets past the valves and rings in a period of time while the valves are closed, engine static. I don't believe any are perfect so I assume the 5% is good. Higher %#s would indicated burnt valves, worn rings/cylinders, etc.
Compression is in lbs psi generated by the pistons and measured at the spark plug hole while the engine is being cranked over. The numbers vary depending on the engine, there should be a baseline to compare it to. What you are looking for is the difference between cylinders and can be acceptable up to ~10% difference. Your numbers look wonderful AFAIK.
They are 2 engine health metrics that in general test the same parts of the engine in different ways.
Leakdown is an amount of pressurized air through the spark plug hole that gets past the valves and rings in a period of time while the valves are closed, engine static. I don't believe any are perfect so I assume the 5% is good. Higher %#s would indicated burnt valves, worn rings/cylinders, etc.
Compression is in lbs psi generated by the pistons and measured at the spark plug hole while the engine is being cranked over. The numbers vary depending on the engine, there should be a baseline to compare it to. What you are looking for is the difference between cylinders and can be acceptable up to ~10% difference. Your numbers look wonderful AFAIK.
