danspach

I doubt you're wrong, 32Krazy......thought I could get away with plugging the one line that feeds the slave but that doesn't seem to be the case so I'll take it all out and remove the coupler.

Anyone have a trick for getting the mesh filter out of the neck of the reservoir? Want to try and remove as much Pentosin as possible.

tom153

Definitely sounds like the infamous check valve inside the reservoir.

Did you drive the car at all? How does the clutch feel?

32krazy!

Best way is to completely remove the reservoir and fill it with alcohol drain and dry then reinstall

danspach

Haven't actually felt the clutch yet. Car is still up in the air. I'm not going to drive it unti I get the coupler removed.

Sure was nice to hear the engine again, even if only for a few minutes.

danspach

Quick update.

My underlying reason for looking for a “shortcut” to disable the power assist was to avoid having to split the reservoir and the pump. Every write-up I’ve seen says “get as much Pentosin out of the reservoir as possible but have lots of bags and rags ready to catch whatever is left”.

My engine is in pretty nice shape and didn’t want to test the ability of the stuff to find every nook, cranny and rubber hose.

Turns out there seems to be a pretty easy way to sidestep the mess (and in my case, the angst.)

There are 4 – T30 torx screws holding on the “lid” of the reservoir. All are plainly visible and accessible without the aid of mirrors, extensions, universals or magic - which is more than can be said for some of the other bolts in the pump/slave/accumulator job.

Top comes off:





BS Harbor Freight siphon pump goes in….Pentosin comes out:



2 (two) shops towels got it this dry inside:





Seven more bolts and the pump is out.

32krazy!

I have to say you have worked harder at not doing the gt2 mod than anybody I know to go this far to keep an accumulator and slave that will fail anyway!! ��

danspach

Once I've dropped the engine and transmission as many times as some, I'll agree. Until then, I'm still learning the car.

I also have to think I'm not the only guy who doesn't want to drop the engine and transmission as "step one" to make the clutch feel less sucky.

I did at least eliminate the accumulator.

jpflip

That is interesting, thanks for sharing!!! Now I wonder where is this check valve that is whistling and cause a replacement of the reservoir??? Are you able to see such of thing? I guess it is in the tube going to the filter.....

danspach

danspach

Thanks JP...your threads have been huge as a guide for this so thank you, sir..

I don't think it was the check valve making the noise. (At least I hope it wasn't ..It wasn't making any noise when I started this whole thing.) I agree with "32krazy!" that it was the clutch side of the pump spinning but not pushing any fluid making the squealing sound. I capped the line but it was too far down stream (capped it at the reservoir but not where it comes out of the pump) and there was a column of air in the line. The car idled ok – I believe because at idle it was still bathed in fluid – but as soon as I raised the rpm it pushed the little bit of fluid out and started to squeal.

Got the pump out last night, split it and removed the coupler.

(Disclaimer and Credit Where Due: I know I'm not the first to do this - standing on the shoulders of giants here - but tried to take some good pictures as a reference for anyone else thinking about his approach. I have more for anyone who wants specific shots and I will write this up more completely once I fee like it's actually done.)

Take out these 5 bolts:



Pump out:



How it sits in the car looking at the engine from the rear - minus the pulley on the pump and the lid on the reservoir:



Bird's eye View. The hard line (by the yellow cap the pump is propped up on) is the high pressure line for the slave and will be removed and the port plugged.



Pump split (Power steering on the left, clutch on the right...coupler in the foreground):



With the coupler removed:



Hard line removed and replaced with beautifully made M12 x 1.0 flare plug. Thank you again, "TheDeckMan" !! :






Have reinstalled the pump (with the high pressure port plugged) and will replace the seal between the pump and the reservoir (Part # 99970720440) before reinstalling the reservoir.

jpflip

Sorry, my question about the whistling noise was not ask properly. But I agree with you for your specific noise being cause by oil starvation. My reference with a check valve noise (pressure control valve) was in relation with a TSB 4897. It is the first time I see a tank completely dismantle (thanks for that it is really interesting!) and was wondering where is this pressure control valve? Thanks for the pictures, I always keep them in my Iphoto for future used!!!!

danspach

Didn't take anything more apart aside from the filter off the return tube but I did try to take some pics for you to find the check valve.

jpflip

Yesss, Thanks!!!

FRUNKenstein

Good info!

danspach

Finally got around to buttoning up the car this weekend. Put the pump back in, filled the reservoir, put the lid on it (sealed without incident (one of my concerns), belt on, y-pipe and intake back in. Fired her up.

No leaks.

No shrieks.

Several shorter trips to keep an eye on things and she looks good to go. Pedal pressure required is definitely greater but not a concern for me and the clutch is predictable and linear which was my goal.

Thanks to all for the help/knowledge: 32Krazy!, jpflip, Kevinmacd John D II. Special thanks TheDeckMan who came through with the perfectly crafted flare plug for sealing the ports on the reservoir as well as on the pump. Amazing craftsmanship. Perfect fit.

As previously threatened, I’ll write this up for anyone else looking to go this route.

I think I’m also going to take apart the slave I took out of the car to see exactly where the check valve goes bad.