Ultimate Motorwerks GT3RS/Turbo 4 Liter Clutch Kit $2,445.00
#16
Gonna guess you need the GT2 slave conversion to really make the most of this setup? I'd love to be able to test it out and see how it feels. I've never been a fan of how lethargic the DMFW makes the car seem. If I keep the car long enough to need a new clutch I'll definitely look into this for a replacement.
It's always good when people/companies that actually know about a specific platform develop solutions like this. Thanks Kevin.
It's always good when people/companies that actually know about a specific platform develop solutions like this. Thanks Kevin.
#17
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No, you don't need the GT2 slave, however it's an option. I like keeping the factory hydraulic assist. The LWFW pedal engagement is more precise vs the dual mass.
#19
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It looks like there’s no shortage of praise about Kevin here, but just want to add that I’ve had a pleasant experience corresponding with him also.
As for the clutch, it’s one of the things that stuck out to me about the 996 tt. If you’ve never driven a GT3, it wouldn’t be something you’d think would need to be improved, but a faster/more responsive engine is very nice to have... And if you try one, it’s hard to go back! Really helps smoother shifting/rev matching.
As for the clutch, it’s one of the things that stuck out to me about the 996 tt. If you’ve never driven a GT3, it wouldn’t be something you’d think would need to be improved, but a faster/more responsive engine is very nice to have... And if you try one, it’s hard to go back! Really helps smoother shifting/rev matching.
#20
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If you guys have any questions as to "what" the benefits of this clutch is vs other systems, please email or call me.
#21
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The clutch assembly Kevin is selling is amazing. The important issue is finding a mechanic who will read the installation instructions provided by Kevin, and follow them to the letter.
My experience is that you had best count on adding a new slave cylinder as well. Probably an accumulator too.
In my case, I had a new clutch accumulator, but there seemed to be an issue with the slave, so it was replaced. Power bleeding the system afterwards is non-negotiable.
There is some additional noise with the LWFW, however, I find when I know the source of the noise and know it is normal, I am comfortable with it.
Kevin has helped me with other items in the past. I appreciate his common sense approach and knowledge. Audi diverter valves for the TT at a fraction of the price? Who would have known.
I have no problem saying buy with confidence...Kevin is my recommendation.
My experience is that you had best count on adding a new slave cylinder as well. Probably an accumulator too.
In my case, I had a new clutch accumulator, but there seemed to be an issue with the slave, so it was replaced. Power bleeding the system afterwards is non-negotiable.
There is some additional noise with the LWFW, however, I find when I know the source of the noise and know it is normal, I am comfortable with it.
Kevin has helped me with other items in the past. I appreciate his common sense approach and knowledge. Audi diverter valves for the TT at a fraction of the price? Who would have known.
I have no problem saying buy with confidence...Kevin is my recommendation.
#23
Kevin might have an exact number, but If memory serves me correct I wanna say the difference was 17lbs when I weighed what was removed and what went in. My RUF clutch was a Sachs Motorsport PP with a GT2 disc and DMFW. The difference is basically the weight of the FWs.
Last edited by powdrhound; 05-21-2014 at 03:33 AM.
#24
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I personally feel that for a street driven car that can be run on the track>> the weight is near a perfect match. The impact or benefit will free up the engine as to how it will REV to redline. I tell most folks that it's like strapping an extra 30HP to your engine.
Public service announcement. I recommend that "long term" enthusiast remove the clutch/start switch. This is a 5 minute job, with a male to male spade. In a pinch you can use a spare fuse. Remove the two wires and connect them to the two spade terminals (fuse)..
This mod will reduce the wear on the #1 main bearing thrust surface. Increase copper from oil samples points to this area. This mod reduces the excessive pressure on start up, by reducing the pressure from the slave/clutch.
Public service announcement. I recommend that "long term" enthusiast remove the clutch/start switch. This is a 5 minute job, with a male to male spade. In a pinch you can use a spare fuse. Remove the two wires and connect them to the two spade terminals (fuse)..
This mod will reduce the wear on the #1 main bearing thrust surface. Increase copper from oil samples points to this area. This mod reduces the excessive pressure on start up, by reducing the pressure from the slave/clutch.
#25
^+1, first 'mod' anyone should do.
#27
under dash at clutch pedal, is pretty easy to see, can take a pic tomorrow night if that helps
#28
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Grab a mirror and flashlight. You will hear it click when you push the pedal down. The switch has a plunger that locates on the clutch pedal arm assy. There are two wires going to the plastic switch. I have never been able to take a decent picture of it.
Rob if you can take a picture it will help "all" of the Rennlisters..
Dennis, can you tell (Rennlisters)the differences you feel between you dual mass clutch kit and the RS 4.0 clutch kit WITH factory slave (including how the new slave/accumulator feels).. TIA.
Rob if you can take a picture it will help "all" of the Rennlisters..
Dennis, can you tell (Rennlisters)the differences you feel between you dual mass clutch kit and the RS 4.0 clutch kit WITH factory slave (including how the new slave/accumulator feels).. TIA.
Last edited by Kevin; 06-12-2014 at 04:21 PM.
#29
Will try to snap a picture later today.
Disconnect wires from the switch and connect the two together, IIRC a spade connection.
Cheers,
Disconnect wires from the switch and connect the two together, IIRC a spade connection.
Cheers,
#30
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I was actually wondering if one with your original kit could swap out the 4.0 "quiet" components? I like the sound the clutch makes at idle, but some don't.