PCCB Honk
04-20-2013, 05:22 PM
#1
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PCCB Honk
So my car has 10,800 or so miles. I have the PCCB brakes. Just recently (last 2 weeks) had the passenger front brakes make noise when slowing at high speeds. Sounds like a "honk" type noise - like something rubbing. There is no real vibration or anything when I get the sound. Seems to be happening more now where as it was just a one time occurrence and wrote it off. Thoughts on where to look? Everything looks ok from sight and feel. Only thing done in last 500 miles was new tires, added stock GT3 rims and got an alignment. I am not running spacers FYI.
04-21-2013, 12:02 AM
#2
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I had an 05 996 Turbo S vert that did that honk sound from time to time under the same conditions that you describe. Took it to dealer and they said all was 100%. Funny thing is it sounded just like a honk of a car. My car had same gt3 style wheels not that they would be the cause.
04-21-2013, 07:11 AM
#4
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04-21-2013, 12:50 PM
#7
Race Director
So my car has 10,800 or so miles. I have the PCCB brakes. Just recently (last 2 weeks) had the passenger front brakes make noise when slowing at high speeds. Sounds like a "honk" type noise - like something rubbing. There is no real vibration or anything when I get the sound. Seems to be happening more now where as it was just a one time occurrence and wrote it off. Thoughts on where to look? Everything looks ok from sight and feel. Only thing done in last 500 miles was new tires, added stock GT3 rims and got an alignment. I am not running spacers FYI.
Brakes are too important a subsystem to not bother to check when the brakes make noise out of the blue.
Were the tires/wheels done by a dealer? Or an indy tire store? The dealer techs will use the wheel rods to prevent the wheel from dropping down in the rotor when the wheel comes loose from the hub. The indy tire shop might not be aware of the these rods and the need to use them.
Feel the tread surface of the tires. Feel for any signs of feathering or scuffing. Double check the tires are the same at all 4 corners and if uni-directional mounted in the right direction.
The noise might be normal but you need to check things out just in case the noise is an early warning sign something's amiss.
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04-21-2013, 07:37 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Well, the first thing would be to closely examine the brake hardware at the corner where you believe the noise is coming from and then at the other 3 corners just to be sure. Noises can be tricky in that they can appear to come from one place when in fact they are coming from someplace else.
Brakes are too important a subsystem to not bother to check when the brakes make noise out of the blue.
Were the tires/wheels done by a dealer? Or an indy tire store? The dealer techs will use the wheel rods to prevent the wheel from dropping down in the rotor when the wheel comes loose from the hub. The indy tire shop might not be aware of the these rods and the need to use them.
Feel the tread surface of the tires. Feel for any signs of feathering or scuffing. Double check the tires are the same at all 4 corners and if uni-directional mounted in the right direction.
The noise might be normal but you need to check things out just in case the noise is an early warning sign something's amiss.
Brakes are too important a subsystem to not bother to check when the brakes make noise out of the blue.
Were the tires/wheels done by a dealer? Or an indy tire store? The dealer techs will use the wheel rods to prevent the wheel from dropping down in the rotor when the wheel comes loose from the hub. The indy tire shop might not be aware of the these rods and the need to use them.
Feel the tread surface of the tires. Feel for any signs of feathering or scuffing. Double check the tires are the same at all 4 corners and if uni-directional mounted in the right direction.
The noise might be normal but you need to check things out just in case the noise is an early warning sign something's amiss.
04-21-2013, 08:18 PM
#9
Race Director
As I mentioned earlier the brakes are too important to ignore any sign they may have a problem or an issue.
Even if safety is not compromised the PCCBs are too expensive to not take steps to ensure everything is ok.
04-21-2013, 10:59 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
My advice is you make the chance, have the car checked over. I'm not at the car and I can't say the noise is normal or abnormal.
As I mentioned earlier the brakes are too important to ignore any sign they may have a problem or an issue.
Even if safety is not compromised the PCCBs are too expensive to not take steps to ensure everything is ok.
As I mentioned earlier the brakes are too important to ignore any sign they may have a problem or an issue.
Even if safety is not compromised the PCCBs are too expensive to not take steps to ensure everything is ok.
04-22-2013, 09:28 AM
#11
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Fellow honkers;
A combination of light pad glaze and light use (i.e. cool rotors) can set off feedback loop of pad vibration.
A heavy brake application will kill the goose for a while.
The disks work best when they are warm. Keeping your disks warm and cozy on a leisurely drive can be a challenge because the PCCB's low mass and advanced venting does not retain heat as well as iron rotors. You may have to stab the brakes every so often to maintain disk temperature.
You can check to see if you have the shim kit installed on the pads. Early gen-2 PCCB's came w/o shims IIRC.
The most you can do for your ceramic disks is to 1. check for elongating cracks on the cross drilling (some surface cracks that are stable are ok); 2. look for chips taken out of the outside edge (usually do to a sloppy wheel removal); 3. Change you pads before they get too low.
BD
A combination of light pad glaze and light use (i.e. cool rotors) can set off feedback loop of pad vibration.
A heavy brake application will kill the goose for a while.
The disks work best when they are warm. Keeping your disks warm and cozy on a leisurely drive can be a challenge because the PCCB's low mass and advanced venting does not retain heat as well as iron rotors. You may have to stab the brakes every so often to maintain disk temperature.
You can check to see if you have the shim kit installed on the pads. Early gen-2 PCCB's came w/o shims IIRC.
The most you can do for your ceramic disks is to 1. check for elongating cracks on the cross drilling (some surface cracks that are stable are ok); 2. look for chips taken out of the outside edge (usually do to a sloppy wheel removal); 3. Change you pads before they get too low.
BD
04-22-2013, 04:37 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Fellow honkers;
A combination of light pad glaze and light use (i.e. cool rotors) can set off feedback loop of pad vibration.
A heavy brake application will kill the goose for a while.
The disks work best when they are warm. Keeping your disks warm and cozy on a leisurely drive can be a challenge because the PCCB's low mass and advanced venting does not retain heat as well as iron rotors. You may have to stab the brakes every so often to maintain disk temperature.
You can check to see if you have the shim kit installed on the pads. Early gen-2 PCCB's came w/o shims IIRC.
The most you can do for your ceramic disks is to 1. check for elongating cracks on the cross drilling (some surface cracks that are stable are ok); 2. look for chips taken out of the outside edge (usually do to a sloppy wheel removal); 3. Change you pads before they get too low.
BD
A combination of light pad glaze and light use (i.e. cool rotors) can set off feedback loop of pad vibration.
A heavy brake application will kill the goose for a while.
The disks work best when they are warm. Keeping your disks warm and cozy on a leisurely drive can be a challenge because the PCCB's low mass and advanced venting does not retain heat as well as iron rotors. You may have to stab the brakes every so often to maintain disk temperature.
You can check to see if you have the shim kit installed on the pads. Early gen-2 PCCB's came w/o shims IIRC.
The most you can do for your ceramic disks is to 1. check for elongating cracks on the cross drilling (some surface cracks that are stable are ok); 2. look for chips taken out of the outside edge (usually do to a sloppy wheel removal); 3. Change you pads before they get too low.
BD
04-25-2013, 03:01 PM
#13
Instructor
Mine honk occasionally when cool and coasting slowly, pads are 80% with 36,000 miles, the car won't let me ride the brakes and throttle at the same time so it takes a little sprint and a hard brake application to warm them up.
Dan
Dan
