Dilemma: GT2 Slave mod or just replace with stock parts? My slave is toast
05-31-2012, 04:36 PM
#31
Drifting
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Interesting discussion. For anyone who doesn't need the mod for the track but doesn't like the over-boosted feel of the clutch, try the Home Depot spring mod first. You replace the stock helper spring with a light door spring from home Depot. Just to keep the clutch in the up position and off the cruise switch.
It costs about $1.50 and completely changes the feel for clutch engagement. It takes about 15% more effort to push in the clutch. Which is to say, not much. IMO
It costs about $1.50 and completely changes the feel for clutch engagement. It takes about 15% more effort to push in the clutch. Which is to say, not much. IMO
05-31-2012, 05:41 PM
#32
Cruisin'
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I think I'm going to try this spring mod out. I did the same thing on my 370Z, I was stalling the car every week or so, like I had never driven a manual before. Since removing the ridiculously over boosted spring and replacing with a spring (~20% rating of OEM) from McMaster Carr...it literally drives like a different car. Best mod (~$10/5 minutes) I have done on the Z. The increased pedal effort is barely noticeable in the Z. From what I have read, I should expect similar efforts in the TT...
05-31-2012, 10:51 PM
#33
Thank you Kevin. So the problem lies with the fact that the EVOMS bracket is susceptible to breakage due to the stress if I understand it correctly and that in turn could damage the clutch fork and make the gearbox go boom!
Powder, there is ALOT of stress placed on the bracket. The risk is high if you have a failure. I have seen a bell housings wiped out. How?? The T/O bearing breaks and wedges in the pressure plate at 6000RPM's... The damage now mounts in the several thousand dollars, gearbox rebuild, new bell housings, new clutch and a new slave...
It becomes a blame game, the chicken or the egg. Did the bracket shift or did it break? The easiest way if you are pulling the gearbox is to drill the bellhousing and mount the GT2/GT3 components. I must add that I am seeing throw out bearing fork wear over 55K miles. The pads are wearing. If you have to spend $270 on a new fork, you might as well get the correct GT2/GT3 G50 fork and drill your bell housing. When you are finished, you can drive your car into any Porsche shop and get factory replacement parts "anytime"
Drilling the bellhousing like John has mentioned gets my vote "IF" one needs to have this conversion. For the street driven car KEEP your factory Hydraulics!
It becomes a blame game, the chicken or the egg. Did the bracket shift or did it break? The easiest way if you are pulling the gearbox is to drill the bellhousing and mount the GT2/GT3 components. I must add that I am seeing throw out bearing fork wear over 55K miles. The pads are wearing. If you have to spend $270 on a new fork, you might as well get the correct GT2/GT3 G50 fork and drill your bell housing. When you are finished, you can drive your car into any Porsche shop and get factory replacement parts "anytime"
Drilling the bellhousing like John has mentioned gets my vote "IF" one needs to have this conversion. For the street driven car KEEP your factory Hydraulics!
06-01-2012, 12:19 AM
#34
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Powder, there are more than 3 or 4 different folks out there that manufacture the billet aluminum offset bracket. I don't know where Mike purchased his bracket. Someone was selling the kit on Ebay many moons ago.
07-23-2013, 06:47 PM
#35
Nordschleife Master
Just noticed that I the hose under the green cap reservoir is wet and the plastic cover that covers it is all sticky. Never noticed it until after a track weekend during cleanup. Looks like my slave/accumulator is gone.
Though my clutch is very light. I have a 996 C4S and the clutch (new) is way heavier then my TT. I plan to track only the TT and while I do sometimes DD it, I don't drive in heavy traffic and I all ready find the TT clutch to light and a pain to engage like how my C4S does.
Given that I track a lot, I guess I fall in the group that should convert to GT2. I don't mind staying with the over boosted clutch but if tracking it causes premature failure then why bother?
Though my clutch is very light. I have a 996 C4S and the clutch (new) is way heavier then my TT. I plan to track only the TT and while I do sometimes DD it, I don't drive in heavy traffic and I all ready find the TT clutch to light and a pain to engage like how my C4S does.
Given that I track a lot, I guess I fall in the group that should convert to GT2. I don't mind staying with the over boosted clutch but if tracking it causes premature failure then why bother?
09-14-2014, 06:43 PM
#36
So gt3 or tt tip power steering pump is a direct bolt in?
I have hundreds of my LWFW RS/turbo clutch kit in the market place. For street driven cars the slave failure rate with my clutch kit is a non issue. However, I recommend that if the slave has NOT been replaced in 3 years>>REPLACE IT. This includes replacing the accumulator.
Side note, it is my opinion that the recommended way to add the GT3/GT2 hydraulics is to drill the bellhousing and relocate the slave in the proper Porsche GT3/GT2 location. The boss/casting is already there, you just need to drill and tap the bell housing (not as easy as it sounds but very do able). I also recommend replacing the power steering pump GT3/tiptronic unit. Many folks have the slave conversion and do nothing to the pump which will give you nothing but problems down the road.
Side note, it is my opinion that the recommended way to add the GT3/GT2 hydraulics is to drill the bellhousing and relocate the slave in the proper Porsche GT3/GT2 location. The boss/casting is already there, you just need to drill and tap the bell housing (not as easy as it sounds but very do able). I also recommend replacing the power steering pump GT3/tiptronic unit. Many folks have the slave conversion and do nothing to the pump which will give you nothing but problems down the road.
09-15-2014, 11:27 AM
#37
Burning Brakes
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I Did the gt2 conversion in the car feels like it should've left the factory that way. Clutch feels much better. Not a cheap upgrade but worth it.
I'll have Kevin's LFW clutch kit and tune/awe exhaust etc. Car feels great!
I'll have Kevin's LFW clutch kit and tune/awe exhaust etc. Car feels great!
09-17-2014, 02:59 PM
#38
1st Gear
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I did the GT2 mod and will never go back to stock. Pedal feeling, specially during release is much better. Clutch engagement is much more controllable now. Regarding the pedal effort increase, it was not too much. I don't think it made it unbearable for daily driver. I've had other manual cars that had a lot more of a heavy pedal.
09-20-2014, 01:50 PM
#39
Track Day
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good mod
+1 for drill/tap method. Clutch feel is awesome now. It is properly stiff, but not too stiff. I don't track the car, but daily driving experience compared to before is night and day.
I have to disagree with Kevin on this one. Stock engagement sucks, no other way to put it. Leaving it stock will hurt resale value IMHO.
Do it and do it right, you will be a happy camper.
I have to disagree with Kevin on this one. Stock engagement sucks, no other way to put it. Leaving it stock will hurt resale value IMHO.
Do it and do it right, you will be a happy camper.
09-20-2014, 05:40 PM
#40
Personally, the people that detest the factory boosted setup likely are recalling a marginal and failing setup.
I decided to keep the factory hydraulics when they failed. I needed to upgrade my clutch, so I did both at the same time. Sachs 2.5 setup (999.764 PP, GT2 unsprung disc, DM fly). This setup is puuurfect. There is no oddball overboosted feel, nor vague engagement point. Those are characteristics of a failing slave/accumulator.
I love this setup. Feel and effort is just right without hint of an unnecessary heavy pressure. Yet this setup will do 700 torque just fine. This is what the turbo is all about IMO. Effortless speed and reserves, without the compromise of a 'race car'.
I decided to keep the factory hydraulics when they failed. I needed to upgrade my clutch, so I did both at the same time. Sachs 2.5 setup (999.764 PP, GT2 unsprung disc, DM fly). This setup is puuurfect. There is no oddball overboosted feel, nor vague engagement point. Those are characteristics of a failing slave/accumulator.
I love this setup. Feel and effort is just right without hint of an unnecessary heavy pressure. Yet this setup will do 700 torque just fine. This is what the turbo is all about IMO. Effortless speed and reserves, without the compromise of a 'race car'.
09-22-2014, 04:19 AM
#41
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Not so. I purchased my 996TT new and detested the clutch from day one and I am far from the only person that feels this way. I have had many 911's spanning a lot of years and the 996TT clutch was the first time I was so displeased with an OEM 911 clutch that I made the effort to pioneer a solution...
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991.2 GT3 RS Weissach Racing Yellow
991.2 Turbo S GT Silver
991.2 GT3 Chalk (Manual)
2022 Cayenne White
former 1972 911T white, 1984 911 3.2 Targa black, 993 cab white, 993TT arena red, 993TT silver, 996TT speed yellow, 991.1 GT3 white
www.speedtechexhausts.com
info@speedtechexhausts.com
Testimonials SpeedTech Exhaust Videos facebook
09-22-2014, 04:36 AM
#42
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powdr, I just spotted this question posed a long time ago...We have sold a ton of these kits for many years now and have never had any issues, returns or failures, other than a couple of master or slave failures due to not thoroughly cleaning all the residual pentosin from the lines. As I am sure you know, this type of failure will occur with either style of GT2 conversion, if not flushed properly during the initial installation. But zero bracket problems.
911, 996, 997, 997tt, accumulator, clutch, conversion, gt2, modification, piece, porsche, repair, sharkwerks, slave, turbo
