fly2low

On another note, has anyone sought reimbursement from Porsche for repairs of this nature? It seems as though it's not a matter of if these things fail but when, so if that's true I feel Porsche assume some responsibility to remedy such an issue

I had a two paragraph response to this inane comment, but figured why bother

TheBucketOfTruth

Although I see the likelihood of Porsche working with me at all on this as extremely low, I figure it can't hurt to ask. I have heard of Porsche paying for replacements in good faith, but the example I remember was someone's 997TT that had just gotten out of warranty.

Mikelly

Couple things to be aware of here....

If you do the GT2 hydraulics upgrade, go with the drilled bell housing method. The evoms kit slips and allows the bearing to bind on the assembly, breacking the fork and pressure plate. My car suffered this after only 10k miles and literally within 24 hours selling it to the new owner. Zero hint that there was an issue either.

The oem 996tt hydraulics arent up to the task of "mods" and fail more frequently over time, and with increased power, aggressive pressure plates force. I went through three complete sets of oem hydraulics before we swapped to the evoms setup.

Mike

reubenk

putting the car in this week for a new clutch, LWFW, gt2 slave mod, and.....
wait....
wait...
an oakley sequential shifter
yes, I know, its too expensive, not practical, whatever...
but (to quote risky business) sometimes you just have to say WTF!

Stevefon

First I heard of issues with the Evoms GT2 slave conversion. Anyone else?

Steve

Mikelly

Kevin should weigh in here... Just saying'

Mike

tbarcelo

Mikelly - what is the drilled bell housing method? I'm currently running a DIY GT2 conversion with dgreen's bracket.

bushman66

I'm conflicted on this choice as well. Although my car does not need the accumulator/slave replaced (yet). One concern I have about replacing the stock parts is that I've read that with an aftermarket clutch, your failure rate on the stock slave goes up?

My plan is to go with one of Kevin's flashes...and I've read that the stock clutch is not really up to it.

So...aftermarket clutch = automatic default to the GT2 mod? And also interested to know what the "drilled bellhousing" version is too?

Thanks!

XR4Tim

With a stronger pressure plate, the system requires more force to release the clutch, putting more strain on all they hydraulic components. So yes, the failure rate will go up with a stiffer pressure plate.

Kevin

I have hundreds of my LWFW RS/turbo clutch kit in the market place. For street driven cars the slave failure rate with my clutch kit is a non issue. However, I recommend that if the slave has NOT been replaced in 3 years>>REPLACE IT. This includes replacing the accumulator.

Side note, it is my opinion that the recommended way to add the GT3/GT2 hydraulics is to drill the bellhousing and relocate the slave in the proper Porsche GT3/GT2 location. The boss/casting is already there, you just need to drill and tap the bell housing (not as easy as it sounds but very do able). I also recommend replacing the power steering pump GT3/tiptronic unit. Many folks have the slave conversion and do nothing to the pump which will give you nothing but problems down the road.

John D II

Here is a picture of my GT2 slave which was installed by "tapping the case". The case is tapped to accept the 2 mounting bolts. This was done before there were any GT2 kits on the market and I desired better clutch feel. A couple of years later, the kit with braket was introduced.

Also in the foreground of the picture is the OEM fork, which has to swapped with a 993 generation "mirror reverse fork" to work with the slave mounted on the opposite side. The hole to the left of my slave is from the OEM assisted slave - it gets plugged.

This GT2 slave has been on the car for over 5 years/60,000 miles now with no failure. We did not do anything to the pump and it has survived perfectly fine, as well. I use this car daily driving for 3 seasons per year and it has made 40 to 50 1/4 mile passes with this set-up. It also has a Sachs motorsports heavy duty pressure plate which was further modified by CM for additional clamp force, so this is a robust set-up.

I did this modification early in the life of my 996TT because I could not stand the vague feel of the OEM clutch from the first day I drove my new 996TT. Even after 2 years of driving the car daily, I just could not get used to the vague clutch feel. A conversation with my former 993TT tech gave birth to the idea of converting to a 993 GT2 based system, so I decided to try it. It was a success and I have loved it ever since. So, I can understand why this mod has become so popular. IMO, if you enjoy driving a Porsche for the driving experience, then I think you would like this mod. If you use the car simply as transportation with little enthusiasm for recreational/fun driving then probably stick with the OEM set-up. It's fine in heavy traffic - it takes a week or two to become used to it, then it just feels normal.

For the person that went into a showroom and tested one for feel - that will feel shockingly hard from what you are used to and would probably scare you away, but if you drive it, even for only 10-15 minutes, it suddenly does not seem so bad. Then once you discover how well the clutch behaves, you will not want to go back...finally, after 2 weeks it will just become your car...

jcb-memphis

+1 for what John said.

4 years. 30k miles. Also on the UMW clutch/lwfw. I don't do 1/4 mile stuff at all, but for a drving experience John's words are spot on in my opinion. Biased as heck, as I did it and love it.

Is there a way to simply prevent this (like tighten or add something....think low labor hours) that is effective?:



Couple things to be aware of here....

If you do the GT2 hydraulics upgrade, go with the drilled bell housing method. The evoms kit slips and allows the bearing to bind on the assembly, breacking the fork and pressure plate. My car suffered this after only 10k miles and literally within 24 hours selling it to the new owner. Zero hint that there was an issue either.

The oem 996tt hydraulics arent up to the task of "mods" and fail more frequently over time, and with increased power, aggressive pressure plates force. I went through three complete sets of oem hydraulics before we swapped to the evoms setup.

Mike

TIA

jeff

uschoice

reubenk- Did you get your car back? Any thoughts about the Oakley shifter?

powdrhound

Mike, I respect your knowledge. Can you please expand on this? What exactly slips on the EVOMS kit causing it to "break the clutch fork and pressure plate"? This is the first time I'm heard of this and I've read countless posts with no broken fork/clutch issues?

Speedtech John, you sell these kits, what is the issue at play here, something not tightened properly?

Kevin

Powder, there is ALOT of stress placed on the bracket. The risk is high if you have a failure. I have seen a bell housings wiped out. How?? The T/O bearing breaks and wedges in the pressure plate at 6000RPM's... The damage now mounts in the several thousand dollars, gearbox rebuild, new bell housings, new clutch and a new slave...

It becomes a blame game, the chicken or the egg. Did the bracket shift or did it break? The easiest way if you are pulling the gearbox is to drill the bellhousing and mount the GT2/GT3 components. I must add that I am seeing throw out bearing fork wear over 55K miles. The pads are wearing. If you have to spend $270 on a new fork, you might as well get the correct GT2/GT3 G50 fork and drill your bell housing. When you are finished, you can drive your car into any Porsche shop and get factory replacement parts "anytime"

Drilling the bellhousing like John has mentioned gets my vote "IF" one needs to have this conversion. For the street driven car KEEP your factory Hydraulics!