Considering 996TT. Thoughts?
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I am considering a 996TT as the title states. Would be an early 2001-2003 vehicle in the $45,000 range. What is life like with these cars and what can I expect here in S. Florida with the heat as this is a turbo car? How good of a track car is it with some suspension mods as I am planning on doing a few track days a year? What are the expenses that are typical and that I can expect?
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You won't have any problems living with it as a DD. I live in Phoenix where it's just as hot if not hotter and drove a 996 TT dailly for two years. The only maintenance I had to do were oil changes, brakes and tires. Granted, you might need more because of the track days which I didn't do in my car. My 996 was a 2002 that I bought with 30k miles and sold two years later with 50k miles. Do it. You won't regret it.
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No worries - great driver - you're in the right ballpark.
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IMO - as I am starting to look as well....my budget is $50k and my criteria is 2003-2005 manual, up to @60k miles, being sold by a real person who knows the vehicles history, light mods OK, normal repair items sorted - it is VERY tough to find examples that fit my criteria.
Be careful at that price point as there will be alot of problem children.
Main problem areas = rear wing fluid leaks up to inoperable wing (most go with a fixed wing at this point), clutch accumulator and slave, coolant connections (welded or pinned as the fix), 2nd gear popout (more for 2001 and some 2002 models). Look for when the last major service was done. Check clutch, brakes with any used car.
Most say that stock suspension needs help, can get away with PSS9/PSS10 up to Moton/JIG depending on your budget. Avoid cheaping out and matching aftermarket springs with stock shocks.
As for expenses...rear tires every 10k miles (say $1,200 each time your replace rears), front tires every 15-20k (say $800 each time), frequent oil / filter changes and transmission oil changes more frequently would not hurt.
Expect your insurance to go up significantly (mine is $875 per year - 2001 Audi A4, got a quote on a 996TT of $1,700 per year), consider adding insurance for the day if you track it as normal insurance rarely covers this. Plan for a @$2k bill every year or two - just in case. If you get a beatup car due to a low entry price - repairs may be significant (but so could almost any car)
Almost forgot - if you buy from a dealer, you will pay tax (vs an individual) - therefore a 45k car will be taxed @$3,150 (assume 7%?)...so your target price point would really be $41,850.
Hope this helps your planning!
Be careful at that price point as there will be alot of problem children.
Main problem areas = rear wing fluid leaks up to inoperable wing (most go with a fixed wing at this point), clutch accumulator and slave, coolant connections (welded or pinned as the fix), 2nd gear popout (more for 2001 and some 2002 models). Look for when the last major service was done. Check clutch, brakes with any used car.
Most say that stock suspension needs help, can get away with PSS9/PSS10 up to Moton/JIG depending on your budget. Avoid cheaping out and matching aftermarket springs with stock shocks.
As for expenses...rear tires every 10k miles (say $1,200 each time your replace rears), front tires every 15-20k (say $800 each time), frequent oil / filter changes and transmission oil changes more frequently would not hurt.
Expect your insurance to go up significantly (mine is $875 per year - 2001 Audi A4, got a quote on a 996TT of $1,700 per year), consider adding insurance for the day if you track it as normal insurance rarely covers this. Plan for a @$2k bill every year or two - just in case. If you get a beatup car due to a low entry price - repairs may be significant (but so could almost any car)
Almost forgot - if you buy from a dealer, you will pay tax (vs an individual) - therefore a 45k car will be taxed @$3,150 (assume 7%?)...so your target price point would really be $41,850.
Hope this helps your planning!
Last edited by thomapa1; 02-17-2012 at 06:31 PM. Reason: made an addition
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I have been hearing that a lot. One other question, can the PSM be fully turned off for the track or does it come back on when you hit the brakes? I think I remember reading that it cannot be fully turned off....
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In S Florida, much like SoCal, I would be concerned the air conditioner worked and maybe focus on cabrios vs. coupes.
As someone new to Porsche, with a recent 2001 996TT purchase of similar budget, my thought process:
"Most bang-for-buck sports AWD?"
"Personal risk tolerance?"
"Of the ways to mitigate risk, what can I accept?"
"Greatest "cool-factor"”?
"No records = no sale!"
I'm not a car track dude, at current: a track-dedicated motorcycle is a significantly less-expensive proposition. The 996TT wants to be wrung-out, though, and I will be mighty tempted to give it a go. Given the GT1 pedigree, perhaps the car will run better if tracked from time to time: this was certainly true of various sport motorcycles, to keep them robust.
996TTs of the vintage mentioned require a sense of humor, willingness to maintain, and ability to accept risk if the dice roll wrong and something goes boom. All the little problems, and not-so-little problems, mentioned by others on this thread. Or, think of them not as problems but "routine parts replacements" and budget accordingly.
I spotted a few frogs before finding (what I hope is) a princess, in that price range. Goes back to "risk tolerance" and "due diligence." PPI is not a magic bullet, but appears to usually go a long way towards quantifying the risk factor.
Yes, sales tax adds a few thou to the price, also, if from a dealer. The dealer's "value add" to the purchase, if-any, must be assessed, too.
As someone new to Porsche, with a recent 2001 996TT purchase of similar budget, my thought process:
"Most bang-for-buck sports AWD?"
"Personal risk tolerance?"
"Of the ways to mitigate risk, what can I accept?"
"Greatest "cool-factor"”?
"No records = no sale!"
I'm not a car track dude, at current: a track-dedicated motorcycle is a significantly less-expensive proposition. The 996TT wants to be wrung-out, though, and I will be mighty tempted to give it a go. Given the GT1 pedigree, perhaps the car will run better if tracked from time to time: this was certainly true of various sport motorcycles, to keep them robust.
996TTs of the vintage mentioned require a sense of humor, willingness to maintain, and ability to accept risk if the dice roll wrong and something goes boom. All the little problems, and not-so-little problems, mentioned by others on this thread. Or, think of them not as problems but "routine parts replacements" and budget accordingly.
I spotted a few frogs before finding (what I hope is) a princess, in that price range. Goes back to "risk tolerance" and "due diligence." PPI is not a magic bullet, but appears to usually go a long way towards quantifying the risk factor.
Yes, sales tax adds a few thou to the price, also, if from a dealer. The dealer's "value add" to the purchase, if-any, must be assessed, too.
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Very close. 2003 turbo x-50 with 29k miles for $52k? Dealer installing new clutch and steering rack. Having full PPI performed now. Has carbon interior bits. Very very nice car. Thoughts?
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Sure sounds like a winner! Any mods on it (suspension, chip). Was the 30k service completed?
Personally, I don't like the $52k since you will also have to pay tax via the dealer (maybe $3k)...<so the cost is really $55k-ish> ... any talk of a service warrantee to offset the tax?
Personally, I don't like the $52k since you will also have to pay tax via the dealer (maybe $3k)...<so the cost is really $55k-ish> ... any talk of a service warrantee to offset the tax?
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Still working on negotiations. I also have to ship it. But I haven't seen an X50 car at this price yet even with shipping and tax. I can buy a 2001-2002 stock TT for $45k-$50k all day but the X50 is something I just wanted....
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I almost always turn my PSM off when driving (I don't track my Turbo).
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Sounds like you are almost there then! Not sure of the distance....but consider flying to the car's location (one way) and driving it home...may be cheaper and more fun (a bonding experience)
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Living in S Fla the turbo has no issues and the AC when properly working works great! The only issue I have had is the rear spoiler, and the divertor valves.
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Houston is similar to S FL. Hot and humid. The AC works great and I have never even come close to overheating. The cooling systems are designed to take track duty so DD duty is a piece of cake even on the hottest days.