New Moton Install
#31
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Used Porsche Motorsport Upper Mounts on Front and rear. Droplinks were needed as well, also Porsche Motorsport.
Cost is comparable to going w/ PSS10's. I think the big difference is the springs used are better than the PSS10 coilovers and the Moton technology is great! Using the Porsche Motorsports parts also provides a high quality product and longevity.
Cost is comparable to going w/ PSS10's. I think the big difference is the springs used are better than the PSS10 coilovers and the Moton technology is great! Using the Porsche Motorsports parts also provides a high quality product and longevity.
#32
Used Porsche Motorsport Upper Mounts on Front and rear. Droplinks were needed as well, also Porsche Motorsport.
Cost is comparable to going w/ PSS10's. I think the big difference is the springs used are better than the PSS10 coilovers and the Moton technology is great! Using the Porsche Motorsports parts also provides a high quality product and longevity.
Cost is comparable to going w/ PSS10's. I think the big difference is the springs used are better than the PSS10 coilovers and the Moton technology is great! Using the Porsche Motorsports parts also provides a high quality product and longevity.
Thanks
#33
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
They only have the adjustment at the top.
They are ride height adjustable as well, but no adjustment at base. I think that is an option on the street sports.
They are ride height adjustable as well, but no adjustment at base. I think that is an option on the street sports.
#36
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Don't think I answered another question on here. yes, stock sway bars (for now).
#37
I have same set up. Transformed car. Using 550fr and 750 r springs.
I found that a 2 notch variance works very well with Hoosiers. Car rotates very well. On cups I use 1 notch variance as the rear is much looser on cups under throttle. On a smooth track on Hoosiers I am on 7 fr and 9 rr. 2.5 front camber and 2.1 rear. I also have H&R sway bars. So experiment with different settings.
Congrats, you will love them on the track.
I found that a 2 notch variance works very well with Hoosiers. Car rotates very well. On cups I use 1 notch variance as the rear is much looser on cups under throttle. On a smooth track on Hoosiers I am on 7 fr and 9 rr. 2.5 front camber and 2.1 rear. I also have H&R sway bars. So experiment with different settings.
Congrats, you will love them on the track.
#38
Burning Brakes
I was on the whole 'power mod' trip, driven by vendors, and only got around to suspension late...it really was transformative.
Enjoy
A
#40
Thank for the pictures. If you read post #36 above where I inquired about the spring coming off the perches when the suspension is extended, you can finally see here what I was talking about. When you look at the above pictures you just posted, you can see there is about a 1" gap between the bottom of the spring and the lower spring perch with the spring just hanging there. This is exactly what will happen in a hard turn at the track when the inside wheel becomes unweighed and the spring will just dangle there in the mount (I'm sure you have seen plenty of pictures of cars at the track where the inside front tire is lifted clear of the ground in a hard turn). The danger in your case is that with the G forces the spring may not seat properly as the weight of the car comes back down on it if the spring is a little crooked at the moment. That could be highly dangerous and this is exactly why coilovers come with helper springs to keep tension on the main spring and keep it firmly seated in the spring perches at full suspension extension. I would double check with the shop that installed this and if they tell you that it's OK for the spring to just hang there then I would seek a 2nd opinion.
#41
Just curious if you ever asked your shop about your springs just dangling there unseated from the spring perches when your suspension is unloaded as in the pictures in the above post? I am interested to see what their take on it is and if they consider that normal. I ended up going with a similar set up on my car with 600/800 springs and my race shop insisted that helpers must be used to keep the mains under tension when the suspension is unloaded.
#42
Rennlist Member
#43
Drifting
Just curious if you ever asked your shop about your springs just dangling there unseated from the spring perches when your suspension is unloaded as in the pictures in the above post? I am interested to see what their take on it is and if they consider that normal. I ended up going with a similar set up on my car with 600/800 springs and my race shop insisted that helpers must be used to keep the mains under tension when the suspension is unloaded.
and diminishing shock travel to match. Not a good way, unless I'm missing something. Easy to comment without knowing the details.
#45
Hello, well yeah, of course. Under load the springs will be seated but what I'm saying is that when you are cornering very hard (as you will at the track, for example) you will develop enough force to actually unweight the inside front wheel where the suspension will be totally extended as it is when up on jacks. Have you never seen a picture of a car cornering hard with the inside front wheel totally off the ground?? Take a peek at the picture below. It happens all the time especially when on slicks or when you bounce off the inside curbing at the track. My point is that the main spring should never be allowed to just dangle at any point during the available suspension travel. That's totally unsafe..... That is the exact reason that helper springs are used on coilover set ups with stiff main springs, to keep tension on the main springs when the suspension is unweighed. A helper spring will take up the 2" gap that you see under the spring in the OPs pictures. Ask any race shop.....
Last edited by powdrhound; 11-12-2012 at 01:08 PM.