Dock

Is it any "short shifter" that's the problem, or is it the driver that's the problem?

The B&M shifter also has machined aluminum parts.

Kevin

Haulinkraut sums it up in post number 2..

Dock, it is the "USER" with a heavy hand knocks out the gearbox. The SSK speed up the fate.

Here is the 997GT3 shifter part number 99742401091

It is very good out of the box. Shifting is much smoother and shorter vs the factory stock 996TT shifter. The shifts are more positive. I strongly recommend this over any SSK for aggressive drivers and anyone the tracks there car.

There are previous threads and pictures showing the build quality of the 997GT3 shifter.

Dock

I agree that it is the driver.

My opinion is that the SSK is not the issue. A conscientious driver won't bend the shift forks with the OEM shifter, and he won't bend the shift forks with the SSK.

Hoosier_Daddy

Thank you for the part number.

Kevin

Dock, the other part of the puzzle is how smooth the 997GT3 shifter is compared to the early 996 SSK..

It's night and day..

Folks that have installed the 997GT3 shifter will comment about how easy and positive 2nd gear is.

Kevinmacd

Can anyone answer my question?

Since we are talking shifters, I noticed there are the metal after market shifter couplers (i.e. Agency Power Part Number:AP-996-300 ) vs the Porsche plastic. Do these cause any of the same problems the SSK does?

http://www.agency-power.com/catalog/...2hi7ki1fevl950

Dock

A shifter not being smooth does not mean the driver has to ham-fist the gear changes.

My B&M shifter (with EVOMS ShiftLink) operates very smoothly, with an easy and very positive 2nd gear change (just like all the other gear changes are).

Mikelly

I have the 997SSK shifter, and I "HAD" the B&M garbage in my old setup before getting the box rebuild and I can tell you that "not" setting up the cables properly and then driving for 9K miles on your transmission (like the previous owner did) will have detrimental effects on your transmission...

I had the stock 997 shifter. It's fine, but there is NO comparison to the 997SSk. It's "THAT" much better... And I track my car a fair amount.

Mike

Dock

The B&M shifter is garbage??

Does that then mean that if the cables are properly set there won't be any detrimental effects on the transmission?

Kevin

If you start getting ham fisted with the B&M (SSK >take your pick) you will be having your gearbox torn apart alot sooner that the stock 996TT shifter. The likelyhood of getting you gearbox rebuilt is higher with the the B&M AND other SSK.

I have installed B&M's perfectly and I like the 997GT3 FEEL alot better.

I'll go out on a ledge and say, with Mike's luck with tranny rebuilds I would strongly recommend the 997GT3 for his application. Truthfully for his wallet, I wish that he would make the switch (my opinion) With the exception> if he is running the heat treated billet shift forks. They will handle the track duty cycle.

I have welded 997 CUP car sequential shifters that get ripped right off the hinge. It is amazing to see the force that is placed on any shifter.

Kevin

Kevinmacd, I wouldn't order them. You shouldn't need them. Cup cables are a option for those that are breaking the linkage. When you go to the aftermarket route> you risk cable adjustment and stretch. Yes, you can shift your gears but are they staying correctly aligned.

haulinkraut

A less smooth/notchy shifter is caused by the leverage point being changed and reducing the size of the shift pattern. The fact is with a smaller shift pattern you have to be more precise to not miss shifts. It also means it takes more effort in a shorter distance to engage a gear. Couple those two things and while it isn't 100% the cause for missed shifts and hammered gears, it is a major contributing factor.

haulinkraut

The one thing to consider with the shift cables is that it is a fuse. It may break alot for some drivers, but it is breaking for a reason. If you get a stronger cable you are now making the transmission the fuse.

Dock

The answer is..."don't be ham-fisted".



It depends on who has been driving the car.

Dock

The leverage point change does not cause the shifts to be less smooth or be more notchy.

Additionally, the leverage point being different does not effect the accuracy required to accomplish the direct fore/aft shifts (1-2, 3-4, 5-6). And I'm not so sure it even effects the the left/right distance the shifter travels in neutral.

My personal technique is to allow the shifter spring (in the neutral left/right track) to position the shifter properly; directly below 3rd/above 4th for the 2-3 and 5-4 shifts.

There is never a good reason/excuse to bang/force gear changes, regardless of the shifter. Bent shift forks are a driver issue, not a SSK issue.