Mikelly

The Tarreds are good units, and I wouldn't shy away from them, but ended up with the TRGs because my car was so low and there was a concern over the diameter of most of the aftermarket units touching the axles, according to the shop I was working with at the time. The TRG units are VERY beefy, and have been on my car over three years.

Mike

Oak

I agree the tarrett's are pretty good. I have them on my rears with GT sways. the trg's were beefier and had better heim joints.

Tytus

So the fact that both diameters are larger than stock is of no consequence? I understand the ration of 3% between front to rear but they are larger diameters than stock and that is OK?

Tytus

LVDell

It's more important to match properly front to rear than overall diameter. Many guys change tire diameter to change gearing. But yes, you don't want to go too tall as you can start messing with the ABS. The first place I saw guys having problem with ABS was when they tried to run 680 tires like you see on the 997's (roughly 26.75")

Tytus

So would running those sizes with R compound Cup tires on the track increase the chance of having the type issues you discussed earlier in this thread with all the additional stick and load to the stock suspension?

Tytus

LVDell

Not sure I follow. Are you referring to Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires? If so, there are proper sizes in the MPSC (225/40 or 235/40 front and 295/30 rear). Those sizes are perfect and will give you no problems.

Tytus

I was just stating that if I got wider tires, as you did for the track, would I possibly have suspension issues due to the additional grip. I have the stock size cup tires now , I wasn't sure if they were available in the larger sizes, but if they were...would suspension issues follow due to more load due to faster driving via better grip?

Tytus

LVDell

Ah, I see what you are asking. Yes, with increased grip your suspension will be exposed at it's weakest point. That's the problem with going to sticky tires. It's actually a good problem if the budget allows for it

Tytus

So you are telling me that I am about to go down this slippery slope of Non Mods? I knew it was inevitable, once I wear out my stock sized cups I guess I will get the larger tires and see where they take me...hopefully not into a wall. Should I replace those parts before they break or is there some sign that I am beginning to stress the system and can upgrade at leisure?

Tytus

LVDell

Depending on tire choice you'll be fine on the stock pieces. It's when you cross over to the really grippy DOT-R's like Hoosier or even worse, slicks that you need to move over to pieces that work with that level of grip properly.

I have NO PLANS to work on the suspension of my car and for that reason I will stick with Nitto's. I get 99% of the grin on my face with my stock alignment and stock suspension with lowly ole Nitto's that I did with my fully sorted GT3.

I've been down the rabbit hole more than I care to remember and I have learned my lesson

buzzmasters

Gentlemen...I am getting a 2003 Turbo with 11,000 miles on it later this week, and plan on doing a few minor mods to the suspension and exhaust (Europipe Stage I). The car will [U]not[U] be a daily driver, but I want to set it up for MILD track use (7-8 days per year, and I only have 20 days of track experience (DE) currently), and for spirited driving on the weekends. I will have an X73 suspension installed, including the firmer rubber engine mounts. The alignment will be like Mikelly's last summer:

Front Camber -1.0
Front Caster +7.1
Front Toe 1/16 out
Rear camber -1.3
Rear Toe 1/32 in

I will be using Michelin Pilot Sprt 2s as street tires, and Pilot Sport Cups for the track.

I am concerned about the reports of toe links breaking, but I am not educated on the various suspension bits, and looking for recommendations on suspension issues.

It looks like I should get the rear toe link from Tarett:

http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...bmp-detail.htm

....along with the locking plate kit:

http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...t01-detail.htm

Is this adequate for mild track use, or is it important to get a GT3 rear sway bar and drop links?

http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...sba-detail.htm

The front sway bar package and drop links are probably overkill and I am not inclined to get them, but I am interested in your views:

http://www.theracersgroup.com/trgpar...ar-996-awd.htm

Any parts I am missing here? Thanks in advance for your help.

Buzz

Mikelly

Buzz, My opinion only, here, but I think the drop links should be done in tandem with an adjustable sway bar kit. My opinion on swaybars is this, buy them in matched pairs and get the endlinks at the same time so the car can be set up properly with both.

Look at GMG and H/R as. The GMG bars are made by Eibach and are great quality parts, and I've been running the H/R stuff for four years, hard and they've served me well.

Getting the Tarred toe links and lockplates is a good move. But those swaybars are going to be your best bang for the buck, starting out.

Mike

buzzmasters

Mike --

Thanks for the reply...I was hoping to hear from you. I will do exactly as you recommend....I believe the 'GMG World Challenge anti-roll bar set for the 996 TT' package on the link below is the right solution...do you agree?

http://www.gmgracing.com/porsche_suspension.shtml

If so, I will order it.

I am still a bit confused as to whether I have ALL the items I will need:

Sway bar set (GMG above)

Tarett toe links and end plates (rear only? or is there something for the front like the GMG 996-997 WC Toe Steer Kit in the link above?)

Adjustable Drop Links (front and rear, from GMG if they have them, or TRG if not: http://www.theracersgroup.com/trgpar...awd-996997.htm and.......... http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...lnk-detail.htm)

Is that everything?

Thanks again for taking the time with us new guys with limited knowledge!

Buzz

buzzmasters

Oops, on the drop links I put a wrong link for one of them...should have said:

Adjustable Drop Links (front and rear, from GMG if they have them, or TRG if not: http://www.theracersgroup.com/trgpar...awd-996997.htm and.......... http://www.theracersgroup.com/trgpar...t-996-only.htm)

Buzz

LVDell

From the GMG site it stated that the ARB's don't need adjustable drop links. I'm not sure I understand how they can be setup PROPERLY with stock links and adjustable ARB's. Unless of course they loaded when they shouldn't be. Sounds like a recipe for snapping the stock drop links.