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Old 03-12-2011, 04:17 PM
  #61  
emadelta86
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I'm at 60k miles and this thread scared me A LOT.....wow..

I'm changing my oil at about 4k, but I can only source M1 5w-50 here, cannot find the TDT..

As an engineer myself I'm really convinced that oil and lubrication in general play a BIG role in all this, besides the obvious design errors..
The right, clean oil can make all the difference in the world IMO.

One thing that I cannot understand is how turbochargers are not granading with all that metal in the oil.

Last edited by emadelta86; 03-12-2011 at 06:54 PM.
Old 03-12-2011, 06:19 PM
  #62  
Macster
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Originally Posted by emadelta86
I'm at 60k miles and this thread is scared me A LOT.....wow..

I'm changing my oil at about 4k, but I can only source M1 5w-50 here, cannot find the TDT..

As an engineer myself I'm really convinced that oil and lubrication in general play a BIG role in all this, besides the obvious design errors..
The right, clean oil can make all the difference in the world IMO.

One thing that I cannot understand is how turbochargers are not granading with all that metal in the oil.
Be careful you don't let a few very scary engine failures or almost failures worry you too much. While they are real, they are rare. Very rare.

You are so right about the oil. The right oil but changed at reasonable intervals. Far and away the majority of 'wear' has to be chemical, corrosion and making sure the oil is 'fresh' helps cut this corrosion down big time. Then there is essentially no wear.

(I know I get some flack for bringing this up but my 02 Boxster didn't go over 240K miles by me following that goofy 15K mile oil change interval and 30K oil filter change interval.)

My Turbo gets its oil/filter changed every 5K mile (sometimes less) and will until I no longer own it.

The turbos don't get oil with metal in it cause the filter removes the metal.

Also, if the engine's shedding serious metal chances are the owner will shut the engine down and have the problem addressed rather than continuing to run the car/engine until more serious symptoms appear. Plus, generally if the metal is a sign of something amiss (and not just the engine shedding metal, which it will, in decreasing amounts over time) the engine may not run long enough to foul the turbos.

Sincerely,

Macster.
Old 03-12-2011, 07:04 PM
  #63  
Dock
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Originally Posted by Macster
...my 02 Boxster didn't go over 240K miles by me following that goofy 15K mile oil change interval and 30K oil filter change interval.
Can you tell me how many miles your Boxster would have gone had you changed the oil every 15k miles? No guesses please.
Old 03-12-2011, 07:30 PM
  #64  
Macster
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Originally Posted by Dock
Can you tell me how many miles your Boxster would have gone had you changed the oil every 15k miles? No guesses please.
Of course not.

But AFAIK there are no Boxsters with that mileage that have had 15K mile oil services.

Furthermore, IIRC T2 has over 260K miles on his 996 Turbo, but I am not 100% sure he has followed a 5K mile oil/filter service interval or if he's followed a longer interval change schedule.

But again AFAIK, there is no other Turbo with that high of miles on it regardless of the oil change interval.

Sincerely,

Macster.
Old 03-12-2011, 07:33 PM
  #65  
Dock
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Originally Posted by Macster
Of course not.
Then how can you say the Boxster wouldn't have gone as many miles had you used a 15K mile oil change interval?
Old 03-12-2011, 08:57 PM
  #66  
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951, Motul is a VERY good oil, however, it is a RACE oil. I wouldn't put over 5K miles on it or more than a year. It does not have the additive package to combat everyday driving. If you have a frequent oil change history, I would run it> I would switch if you tend to NOT change your oil often. With that said, TDT can take the abuse of street driving.

Personally I run 5 different oils. Mobil 5W50, Mobil 5W40 TDT, Motul 300V, Mobil VTwin for my air-cooled turbo's and Mobil Delvac 5W40.
Old 03-12-2011, 09:03 PM
  #67  
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emadelta86, your turbochargers have a check valve and filter screen to prevent damage. The fines that excape this filter screen and the factory filter has to breach the main engine filter... What are the conditions for this ????
Old 03-12-2011, 09:22 PM
  #68  
emadelta86
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Thanks for the explanation Kevin. I see now.
Old 03-25-2011, 07:41 PM
  #69  
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I'm trying to get a little better understanding on how the timing works on a 996tt motor. If I was to put the motor at top dead center, remove the timing chains, rotate all 4 cams 180 degrees and reconnect the timing chains, would the motor run without doing anything else?
Joel
Old 03-26-2011, 03:11 AM
  #70  
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There is risk of kissing a valve with a piston. You need to lock the vario-cam and tension the chains correctly.
Old 04-04-2011, 10:19 PM
  #71  
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I got to use my new tools today. removed the timing chain on the 4-6 cams. removed the intake cam housing and found the center ring missing. Also the housing had a groove, just exactly like PorscheDoc's problem. You can see a piece of the ring in the picture with the 3 ring grooves (left oil passage upper, above hole).
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:57 PM
  #72  
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This is really strange. I would like to know what can cause such a complete disappearance of the middle ring???? The cam seams not to be affected? Too soft metal used for the middle ring? Lack of lubrication in this area ? I can see on the first picture the two special wrenches for turning the cams and the crank I guess? #9653 and 9653/1 Did one fit in the middle of the other?
Old 04-04-2011, 11:50 PM
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Large tool is for holding the exhaust cam while removing the center bolt with a M12 (multiple tooth socket wrench). Smaller tool is for holding the intake cam while removing the center bolt with a 16mm socket.
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Old 04-04-2011, 11:56 PM
  #74  
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Joel you are a nice guy! This is good info for me. Thats what I like to read. Hope you will take some pictures of the cams timing! Thanks again...
Old 04-05-2011, 12:48 AM
  #75  
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I wonder if Kevin's tappet lock software would prevent something like this...


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