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Old 03-25-2014, 01:31 PM
  #136  
LLTurbo
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Update re Swepco and oil pressure ---Just drove 80 mins mostly highway and when came to a light, oil pressure dipped slightly below 2, maybe 1.9. At next stop it stayed at 2-2.5 at idle for 2 mins until I shut her down.
Old 03-25-2014, 02:32 PM
  #137  
PAULUNM
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Since the Swepco is a non synthetic oil, I would think it will shear much more quickly. With the heat and loading a turbocharged motor produces, thermal breakdown will occur.

The additive package may be great, but it's still a conventional oil.

At the very least see if you can run a thicker viscosity.
Old 03-25-2014, 03:07 PM
  #138  
"02996ttx50
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paul, what are you thinking about the penrite 0-50? still waiting for the blackstone report? i'm about to order a cpl pails of the 5litre. i would have, but an alternator took precedence..

edit: saw the PM. call you soon
Old 03-25-2014, 06:17 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by "02996ttx50
paul, what are you thinking about the penrite 0-50? still waiting for the blackstone report? i'm about to order a cpl pails of the 5litre. i would have, but an alternator took precedence..

edit: saw the PM. call you soon
Just make sure you get the newer batch, I fell victim and bought the old batch with the lower 1220 zinc levels. I found this out after purchase and oil change.
Initially they were very reluctant to change over the oil but we will see what happens at the end of the week.
Very poor customer service and I will post a new thread if they dont do the right thing.
You will need to email Penrite and ask for newer batch numbers.
Old 03-25-2014, 06:23 PM
  #140  
notonto
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kevin-

a) mobil 1
b) 0w-40
c) 3000 miles
d) 1 quart/1000 miles
e) no tests
f) 3-5 metal bits/filter
g) no engine rattle when cold
h) engine rattle from idle to 1800 rpm when warm
i) 1.6 bar @ idle
Old 03-25-2014, 07:02 PM
  #141  
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notonto, Welcome to Rennlist.. I think that you can benefit with a change to Mobil 1 5W50... Metal is within range.. Mobil 5W50 will increase your oil pressure, and provide greater sheer stability vs the 0W40.

James88, I have the Blackstone Report numbers.. Zinc is at 1137 not 1220. Phosphorous is at 964. I am in a email waiting game with Penrite.
Old 03-25-2014, 07:07 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by Kevin
notonto, Welcome to Rennlist.. I think that you can benefit with a change to Mobil 1 5W50... Metal is within range.. Mobil 5W50 will increase your oil pressure, and provide greater sheer stability vs the 0W40.

James88, I have the Blackstone Report numbers.. Zinc is at 1137 not 1220. Phosphorous is at 964. I am in a email waiting game with Penrite.
You must have the old batch as well Kevin.
Old 03-25-2014, 08:26 PM
  #143  
PAULUNM
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I just posted the VOAs for the Penrite in post #137 of this thread-

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=77464
Old 05-29-2014, 04:51 PM
  #144  
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Default IMS bearing

I have 04 996 and said by class action law suit by eisman and other 02 through 05 996 engine is bound to fail soon or later.: goes by bin number to make sure your engine is in that class. Because they are cheap small bearing with high rpm would wobble out from their place. The later model engine have bigger bearing with bigger placement so high rpm would not be affected.
Originally Posted by cannon1000
I have an '02 996TT/X50. It was inspected by Porsche Dealer (PPI) and an independent Porsche Shop. Would this be something they would normally observe and disclose? Would I need someone that was aware of this potential issue to look for it specifically. I don't like playing with hand grenades.
Old 05-29-2014, 07:21 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by samo
I have 04 996 and said by class action law suit by eisman and other 02 through 05 996 engine is bound to fail soon or later.: goes by bin number to make sure your engine is in that class. Because they are cheap small bearing with high rpm would wobble out from their place. The later model engine have bigger bearing with bigger placement so high rpm would not be affected.
Not related to the Turbo, GT3, GT2 as they have a completely different engine.
Old 05-29-2014, 09:45 PM
  #146  
"02996ttx50
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i'm oil changing this weekend with 5/40 m1 instead of my usual 60/40 mixture of 0/40 & 5/40 given the relentless heat out here ( the new normal ). i've decided against the pennrite 5/50 given i have enough to obsess about beside oil.

besides, if my motor failed, vivid currently has a full 4.0 stroker build for 10k right now! worse things could happen lol look at this sh*t!

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...ml#post4124325
Old 06-23-2014, 07:30 PM
  #147  
JG 996T
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Originally Posted by Kevin
Folks, this thread has some Great information in it.. For the new owners and newbies>> I have a request..

1) If you have posted recently within the last two weeks >> can you re-edit you post to include..

a) Oil you are running >> Motul, Mobil, Penzoil, Amsoil or XYZ...
b) Oil weight 0W40, 5W40, 5W50 or XWXX
c) Oil change interval,, give us your average...
d) Oil added from due to consumption.. Try to use the rate of 1/2 quart per 1000 or 1 quart per 1000 miles...
e) Do you send your oil for testing, No, Yes, Don't care...
f) Do you see any metal in your oil filter Less than 5 bits, or greater than 20 particles..
2) This is a GREAT thread, my personal opinion is to find oils that produce or minimize engine wear AND engine IMS chain noise.
Summary of last three changes;
Mobil 1 5w-50 @ 54,300, +2,417 miles add one quart of oil
Mobil 1 5w-50 @ 58,505, + 1,891 miles add one quart, + 1,722 miles add 1Q
Mobil 1 0W-40 @ 63,200, + 500 add 1Q
Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 @ 67,030
When I went to 0w, oil consumption went down substantially. Really didn't burn any oil over 3,300+ miles.
I don't submit oil for testing and don't see metal flakes.

Last edited by JG 996T; 06-24-2014 at 04:50 PM. Reason: Added oil brand
Old 06-23-2014, 08:31 PM
  #148  
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Purchased an 03 Turbo with 46,xxx miles on it. Don't know what oil was in it, but I had it changed within a week and sent a sample to blackstone.

: The far right column shows typical wear for this type of Porsche engine after about 3,600 miles on
the oil. We're not sure how long this oil was in use, but it compares very well with universal averages and
doesn't show signs of poorly wearing internal parts, so it looks like you picked a nice one. Silicon and
insolubles are used to determine the effectiveness of the air and oil filtration systems, and both read low so
both filters are working well to keep dirt out. The viscosity was in the 5W/40 range and no contamination
was found. No problems to report here!

ALUMINUM 5
CHROMIUM 0
IRON 12
COPPER 21
LEAD 3
TIN 1
MOLYBDENUM 19
NICKEL 2
SILVER 2
TITANIUM 0
POTASSIUM 2
BORON 81
SILICON 4
SODIUM 2
CALCIUM 2746
MAGNESIUM 17
PHOSPHORUS 863
ZINC 966
BARIUM 0

SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 67.2
cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 12.21
Flashpoint in °F 410
Fuel % <0.5
Antifreeze % 0
Water % 0
Insolubles % 0.2
I went to Liqui Moly High Tech High Ash 5w40 for my first change...and forgot to get a sample when I swapped it out this weekend.

I just switched to Joe Gibbs oil. Flushed the system with their break in oil before putting in 5w40.

Will be sure and send out a sample in 4k miles.
Old 06-24-2014, 01:54 PM
  #149  
Kevinmacd
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Why would you flush a system with break in oil. Break in oil. Break in oil is made to allow parts to actually seat better. To put such a light weight oil in a broken in engine, sounds like trouble to me.
Why would you not just change over to the other oil????
Old 06-24-2014, 02:31 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by Kevinmacd
Why would you flush a system with break in oil. Break in oil. Break in oil is made to allow parts to actually seat better. To put such a light weight oil in a broken in engine, sounds like trouble to me.
Why would you not just change over to the other oil????
Did it per a recommendation from Flat 6 Innovations in another thread...

I would buy a case of JG BR break in oil to use as a 100 mile flush before chaining oil. This lessens cross pollination from one vastly different base oil to another and it does make a huge difference on the first two oil services after switching to DT40. I know this.
I think later on in the thread they say you should take a quick spin around the block and just drain it, but the shop I used had such trouble getting my car on their lift that we just let it idle a bit after warm up.


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