Paulunm,

Just curious, what did you learn about the Delvac 1 being superior to TDT? Seems like you were initally happy with TDT. The mobil oil spec sheet lists TDT as having 1100ppm phosphorus and 1200ppm zinc (to compare, 0w40 has 1000 and 1100, and 5w50 has 1000 and 1100). I was thinking that TDT with a boost of GM EOS would be about ideal, and boost ZDDP levels up close to 1400ppm (this gleaned from the LN Engineering site). As an alternate, the Mobil 1 motorcycle (Racing 4T), at a 10W40, has 1500 and 1700. May be worth trying if you dont care about your cats.

 

I just bought three gallons of M1 5-40 TDT for my next change

 

I am looking for an excuse to buy a Europipe!

In all seriousness- There's a guy on quattroworld who seems to know quite a bit about oil- he recommended going with Delvac over TDT. Now, I haven't actually seen any evidence that Delvac 1 is superior to TDT, but the Delvac line is supposed to be heavier duty for more extreme environments (diesel trucks are pretty extreme).

Basically, I have a UOA for the 0w40 M1 that was in the car when I bought it, a UOA for the 5w50 I put in immediately, and I'll have one done on my TDT, and then on my Delvac- just trying to put some real numbers to all of these different oil choices.

My next oil after the Delvac might be the 0w50 M1 Racing Oil- but I can't afford to spend $5k on a europipe right now...

 

Just want to update my knowledgebase guys:


Delvac gearlube is not the same as the stock gearlube. I understand that and get the delvac 1 only or OEM from dealer.


I "thought" the TDT was the same stuff as the delvac motor oil. Is this in error?

And on race oils, they are not designed with anything that will let them last for street use...ie, they are good for a weekend is what gurus have told me...if you change oil every 500-1000 miles, then they might fit the bill. This is data I was told....could be way off. They are so pricey that I could not rationalize their use in my world.


I suspect the tdt with frequent changes is our best option, and I run 5w-50 M1.


Jeff

 

Jeff- that's what I'm told (That TDT used to be the same as Delvac 1, but it is no longer the same). I have no data to back this up, not even a VOA on both products.

I'd love to get confirmation- otherwise TDT would be the cheaper option.

 

'cheaper' is not very high on my list of criteria for choosing the oil I use in my Turbo.

BTW, I just got ahold of the latest PCNA approved oils list -- dated 7-29-2010 --and neither Mobil Delvac or TDT oils are approved.

The Mobil oils approved for North America (or world wide) with their expiration date ().

Esso Ultron 5w-40 (10.04.2011)
Mobil Synt [sic] S 5w-40 (19.11.2012)
Mobil Syst [sic] S 5w-40 (19.11.2012)
Mobil 1 FF 100 0w-40 (17.10.2013)
Mobil 1 0w-40 (07.10.2012)
Mobil 1 5w-40 (25.08.2012)
Mobil 1 5w-50 (25.08.2012)
Mobil 1 ESP 0w-40 (21.07.2011)
Mobil 1 New Life 0w-40 (28.08.2013)
Mobil 1 Peak Life 5w-50 (04.05.2012)
Mobil Super 3000 X2 5w-40 (21.01.2013)
Mobil Formula X2 5w-40 (21.01.2013)

Sincerely,


Macster.

 

I don't run N spec tires either. I'm sure my car will spontaneously catch fire soon.

 

A

 

The TDT is the M1 5w-40, yes?

Buying 4 quart jugs at Walmart or Autozone or... of the TDT is appealing because it is cheaper. Period. It is Mobil 1 synthetic. It is plebian. And, I am ok with that. My favorite tuner likes it too (UMW).

Delvac 5w-40 and TDT were the same thing with only marketing making them different. Does anyone know if this has changed? It seems unlikely to me...

Am I missing something. Can anyone provide a link to a non-diesel in the mix of the label Mobil 1 5w-40 product?



Jeff

 

 

Well, there's Mobil 1 ESP 5w40, which I've never actually seen for sale in a store before-

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...a_M_5W-40.aspx

 

Be sure you recognize the real value in what T2 posted.

In his car, he covers on average around 100 miles per day every day since he has owned the car. This car sees few if any short trips.

And even with this near constant usage he changes the oil every 5K miles.

(My 03 Turbo has had over 40K miles added to its odo since I bought it a year ago last June and I change or have changed its oil and filter every 5K miles. Also, my 02 Boxster has over 238K miles and I too change its oil every 5K miles and this engine has run the majority of its time with Mobil 1 0w-40 in it.)

Any Porsche approved oil of the right viscosity grade for where you are located is ok.

But what many owners I think fail to recognize is light use, intermittent use, requires *more frequent* oil/filter services. There are other factors which can or should shorten the interval between oil changes. High levels of dust, or high humidity, high ambient temperatures, lots of idling and driving in city traffic with lots of stop and go. Or on the other side extreme high speed driving (tracking).

Part of the problem is extended drain intervals for all types of driving is perpetuated by the car industry and the oil industry. (The oil industry mainly lets the automakers set the intervals and then go along with this but give themselves an 'out' by simply stating that the owner should follow the owners manual guidelines regarding servicing intervals.)

It is a hard sell to try to convince a car owner who uses his car infrequently (or in other conditions I mentioned above) that he really should consider more frequent oil/filter services.

If a dealer or indy shop suggest this, most owners will see this as an attempt to suck more money out of their wallets.

Or even if they accept it they don't care. The car is leased, or the owner knows he is not going to keep the car for that long so he's looking to reduce his cost of ownership.

Any negative effect this has on the car's condition will be the 2nd or 3rd or subsequent owner's problem. When used car buyers begin shunning cars with extended service intervals new car owners might get on board with more frequent servicing with documentation to show a prospective buyer the car received better than factory care/servicing.

If a car maker attempts to right a wrong and specify more frequent services his competition will use this against him.

As I've mentioned before Mike Miller in BMW Mag. writes of BMW's global war in maintenance. BMW is not alone in this war. BMW has many allies in this war. Many other car makers are also specifying longer intervals between services.

In this case the frequency of service is not so much based on what the car really needs to keep it healthy now and into the future, maybe the 'distant' future, but what the lowest common denominator believes the service intervals can be extended.

(Based on this Mr. Miller believes that those current owners of BMWs who while they take care of their cars better than the factory recommends with the idea of in the future relying upon a good supply of used parts (transmissions, differentials, even engines) will be sorely disappointed since the donor cars will have had horrible servicing and their running gear will be in poorer shape than the running gear the owner is looking to replace in his car in order to extend its useful life and keep the car on the road longer.)

Primarily the extended service intervals are specified to reduce the servicing costs to the owner which helps to mitigate the ever increasing prices of cars these owners are having to pay.

In short, cars cost more and yet car makers specify service intervals that puts the cars' (healthy) longevity at risk and the car owners go along with this.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

how many quarts of oil per change? would it vary depending on the oil weight,,

 

AFAIK the amount of oil required does not vary based on the oil's weight. The amount of oil in the engine, well, its level, varies based on the oil's temperature but since you can't check the oil level cold you can not see this. (I can see it with my Boxster when I check the oil level cold then later in the day after driving the car enough to get the oil hot with the car parked in the same position the oil level is one maybe 2 bars higher than it was when I checked it cold.)

After buttoning everything up dump in 8 quarts of oil. In the oil tank tube. The factory manual says to add 7.8 liters of oil which I believe is 8.25 quarts.

But I like to add just a bit under the nominal amount and sneak up on the properl oil level. Some cars -- maybe not Porsches but old habits die hard -- varied in how much oil the engine would take so to ensure one didn't overfill the engine oil sump the idea was to add a bit under the specified amount of oil then top off to bring the level 'just right'.

The manual says: "Fill in engine oil slowly in order to allow the oil suficient time to flow from the oil container into the crankcase."

I don't rush the oil filling. If you want after putting in the oil start to gather up tools and clean up to give the oil time to drain from the tank to the crankcase.

Once you're sure you have 8 quarts of the proper oil in the engine start the engine. Before I start the engine though I like to look under the car to make sure no oil is running out of the car. I've never done it but if you forget to install a drain plug the best time to find out is *before* you start the engine. A good sign a drain plug has been left out of the engine is a puddle of oil under the engine.

When you start the engine all warning lights should go out immediately. If you put in too little oil though by the time you see the oil warning light is remaining on chances are it will be too late.

In the machine shop we had a saying: Measure twice, cut once. In the oil change business, count the number of empty quart oil bottles, twice.

Let the engine idle until it is warm enough to perform an oil level check. Check the oil level. The level should be low, but not real low. Nor should the oil level be too high.

Add oil in small amounts (say as best you can tell in 1/4 quart amounts) and then recheck the level until the oil level is at the max. line. IOWs, 7 bars/segments starting at the bottom and counting up should be lit. The 8th bar/segment -- the one just above the max level line -- should not be lit.

Be sure the oil cap is on secure and you're done.

Now it may not be that clear but in doing the oil change and checking the oil level you have just verified the oil level system is working properly.

By putting in 8 quarts (the manual calls for 7.8 liters) and if after letting the engine run until you can check the oil level the oil level display is reading too little or too much oil you know the oil level system is defective. The engine still have the proper amount of oil in it -- provided you counted 8 empty quart bottles, twice -- so there's no harm to the engine but you need to get the car in and have the oil level system checked and fixed.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

thank you for the response...another question. assuming an adequate amount of oil in the engine, what should the oil pressure reading display. in my case after the engine is at noramal operting temps and the car is idling my gauge shows a reading of 2. under hard acceleration the reading jumps to about 4.5 to 5. under normal cruising speeds it reads about 3. in the event you have a low oil condition, should you expect these readings to differ? i really do not trust the oil measuring device in ours cars and always check the oil pressure to make sure that conditions are normal..i am due to a change at the moment and the cars oil level device shows a low oil level, however, the oil pressure guage depicts what i think are adequate pressures under varying driving conditions. this makes me think that the oil reading unit may not be functioing properly.