isseps

It's time to change the air filter in my car. It has been a year and 4000 miles since last change. This time I decided to put a K&N (PN:33-2189) instead of the OEM replacement. Is it a good idea? Also, How do I remove the MAF sensor connector? I moved and pushed it every possible way with no luck.
Thanks guys,
--mm

Kevin

Keep the stock Mahle paper/pleated filter. To remove the connector you need to depress the locking tab.

isseps

Where is the locking tab on the connector? If you're standing behind the car, is it on the right or left side of the connector?

dantzig

Right side as you face the car from the back looking forward. Just squeeze hard at the bottom of the rubber part and pull up.

isseps

You also agree with Kevin's assessment on the air filter?

Macster

Even for someone like me who believes in agressive service intervals changing the stock filter out after just 4K miles seems a bit premature.

Unless you live in extremely dusty conditions or the filter has been compromised by rodents, water or physical damage the filter should not be any where in need of replacing.

However, you can change the filiter if you wish, of course.

I do agree wholeheartedly with Kevin's position. If you're going to change the filter stay with the stock filter setup.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Land Jet

Oil from the K&N type filters has been seen to clog and ruin the MAF. Stay stock.

Kevin

Why would you WANT to put a K&N in your car???

More Power??

Better filtering?

Noise??

On these turbo engines, you won't get a power increase until you are around 700HP.

dantzig

I'm one of Kevin's many satisfied customers - I just put on a set of those lovely turbos he posted in the "jewelry" thread. In the process, I replaced my K&N with a stock air filter at his recommendation. So far, he's been dead-on right in everything he's told me.

Jon

Dock

Kevin - Don't you use a BMC air filter in your custom air box? Is that combination only used for your highest output power tuning?

isseps

My intention was better filtering. But after reading your responses it looks like the oem paper filter does a better job. If you don't think I need a filter after a year or 4000 miles, then I'll return the K&N. I live in CA and only drive the car weekends when it doesn't rain.

jimq

Does the filter even look dirty at all?

Macster

You can change the filter whenever you want. My point was that at 4K miles and with no other factors like driving in extremely dusty conditions or a tear or something the filter's not due to be changed.

And of course you can use any filter you want.

But if you're seeking probably the best air filtration for your car's engine, the OEM filter is quite a good filter and you probably would be hard pressed to better its performance.

Besides, it is simple to change and requires no oiling or cleaning then oiling.

I've only put 22K miles or so on my Turbo -- it has nearly 32K miles on it and all on the same filter but I have a new one and will replace the old filter shortly -- but I've put over 231K miles on my Boxster and every one has been with the stock filter in place. You can be sure the air filter has been changed regularly though. Engine is original and runs just as good today as it ever did. Stock air filter has done ok by me.

Oh, and I've driven the car in all kinds of weather and in areas -- the southwest mainly -- where the dust content of the air is very high. My driving includes having driven through a few small dust storms on I-40 going through or just outside of Albuquerque and on I-20 down in Texas.

To give you an idea of how hard my Boxster's air filter has had it.... Here's a pic from when I changed it a while back.

Oh here's a pic of a "dust storm" just west of Albuquerque on I-40 just past the I-25 interchange.



Sincerely,

Macster.

Kevin

Dock I wrote..

For a mild upgraded engine stick with the stock filter. The problem with the oiled cotton filters is folks just don't clean them as often as they should.

Out of the box the oiled filters will knock the life out of the MAF.

jcb-memphis

I listen to Kevin. But I also did my own research and the other filters let dirt into the engine....period. So, paper is cheapest, best, and way over designed.

On my old 993 the tuner shop in Memphis taught me that the stock was fine. They took one, and taped 90% up....no dyno change. Showed me a dyno run on a car with no filter....filtered room....hepa...
not my car.

Same numbers....

For 5 or 10 hp....it is beyond silly to risk an engine.


I run paper and will do so into the realistic future.


Jeff