Building THE super transmission, comment welcome!!
#17
Tom,
I have found a huge advantage with coatings. For example I coated my turbos (ceramic coating on the inside and a 3000 degree outside coating) as well as my intercoolers, the entire Intake system and exhaust. The Intake air temp dropped by 18% and the exhaust temps dropped by 22% resulting in much faster spool up and more power. There are certain coatings for gears that will strengthen them as well as drop the heat in the gearbox. Since your transmission is apart, I would look into it.
Here are some photos of my coatings:
You can see the ceramic coating...all the parts (except for the billet cnc wheel) where coated while the turbo was apart.
Here is my titanium exhaust, which was also coated inside and out:
I have found a huge advantage with coatings. For example I coated my turbos (ceramic coating on the inside and a 3000 degree outside coating) as well as my intercoolers, the entire Intake system and exhaust. The Intake air temp dropped by 18% and the exhaust temps dropped by 22% resulting in much faster spool up and more power. There are certain coatings for gears that will strengthen them as well as drop the heat in the gearbox. Since your transmission is apart, I would look into it.
Here are some photos of my coatings:
You can see the ceramic coating...all the parts (except for the billet cnc wheel) where coated while the turbo was apart.
Here is my titanium exhaust, which was also coated inside and out:
#18
My only thought was to monitor gear oil for breakdown and (metallic) particulate and spectrographic analysis.
You should hopefully be able to non intrusively estimate what is going on inside the box....although it certainly is no substitute for a thorough visual inspection.
You should hopefully be able to non intrusively estimate what is going on inside the box....although it certainly is no substitute for a thorough visual inspection.
#19
ok relooked at the GT3 cooler on a car in my shop and it is WATER to oil cooled.
plumbed into the water FROM the engine to the radiators
we are going to go with that instead of air to oil. just doesnt seem like the air flow will be the best. and if the GT3 can use the water line from the engine we should be able also
would like to know what the temp of that water leaving the engine on the why to the front radiator is, if above 200 this wont work!
Thanks again Lewis Alex for the inputs.
pics soon
plumbed into the water FROM the engine to the radiators
we are going to go with that instead of air to oil. just doesnt seem like the air flow will be the best. and if the GT3 can use the water line from the engine we should be able also
would like to know what the temp of that water leaving the engine on the why to the front radiator is, if above 200 this wont work!
Thanks again Lewis Alex for the inputs.
pics soon
#20
Tom,
You could always add an extra tank with a heat exchanger and some fans to keep the water under 200.. I would still look into the heat coatings...if you can drop even as little as 10% heat, thats 20 degrees at 200!! Its not that expensive either...
You could always add an extra tank with a heat exchanger and some fans to keep the water under 200.. I would still look into the heat coatings...if you can drop even as little as 10% heat, thats 20 degrees at 200!! Its not that expensive either...
#21
thanks again for all the suggestions will check into it!!
#22
FWIW, it sounds like a seperate oil cooler/(electric) pump and fan would be the way to go, plumbed from the front all the way to the back.
Just my 2 cents, I would discuss it with one of the more experienced Porsche mechanics on and off this forum.
#23
There are a few things I'd consider here.
1) Cooling, keep the trans at 200F and it will last longer
2) Consider the REM polishing for the new R&P as well as 3-6 gearsets. It is inexpensive and they will wear longer.
3) Proactively replace 3&4 because they WILL break.
4) Use Guard 3rd gears which are slightly thicker than a standard PMNA or Porsche gearset.
5) Use Delvac SHC gear oil
1) Cooling, keep the trans at 200F and it will last longer
2) Consider the REM polishing for the new R&P as well as 3-6 gearsets. It is inexpensive and they will wear longer.
3) Proactively replace 3&4 because they WILL break.
4) Use Guard 3rd gears which are slightly thicker than a standard PMNA or Porsche gearset.
5) Use Delvac SHC gear oil
#24
There are a few things I'd consider here.
1) Cooling, keep the trans at 200F and it will last longer
2) Consider the REM polishing for the new R&P as well as 3-6 gearsets. It is inexpensive and they will wear longer.
3) Proactively replace 3&4 because they WILL break.
4) Use Guard 3rd gears which are slightly thicker than a standard PMNA or Porsche gearset.
5) Use Delvac SHC gear oil
1) Cooling, keep the trans at 200F and it will last longer
2) Consider the REM polishing for the new R&P as well as 3-6 gearsets. It is inexpensive and they will wear longer.
3) Proactively replace 3&4 because they WILL break.
4) Use Guard 3rd gears which are slightly thicker than a standard PMNA or Porsche gearset.
5) Use Delvac SHC gear oil
that is how the GT2 is set up?
thanks
#26
Tom
The GT2 is setup with the Behr water to oil cooler, the reason for this is that you do not need to worry about air flow and position of the cooler, and also because it ensures consistent stable cooling. I would do the exact same thing on your car, just the same as the Cup setups as well.
Edit: Just checked the date, you might have finished it by now!
The GT2 is setup with the Behr water to oil cooler, the reason for this is that you do not need to worry about air flow and position of the cooler, and also because it ensures consistent stable cooling. I would do the exact same thing on your car, just the same as the Cup setups as well.
Edit: Just checked the date, you might have finished it by now!
#27
Tom
The GT2 is setup with the Behr water to oil cooler, the reason for this is that you do not need to worry about air flow and position of the cooler, and also because it ensures consistent stable cooling. I would do the exact same thing on your car, just the same as the Cup setups as well.
Edit: Just checked the date, you might have finished it by now!
The GT2 is setup with the Behr water to oil cooler, the reason for this is that you do not need to worry about air flow and position of the cooler, and also because it ensures consistent stable cooling. I would do the exact same thing on your car, just the same as the Cup setups as well.
Edit: Just checked the date, you might have finished it by now!
to the track this weekend and will post some pics soon tranny and set up finishing tomorrow, car dyno on thursday and to Sebring Friday.
thanks again
#29
Tom
The GT2 is setup with the Behr water to oil cooler, the reason for this is that you do not need to worry about air flow and position of the cooler, and also because it ensures consistent stable cooling. I would do the exact same thing on your car, just the same as the Cup setups as well.
Edit: Just checked the date, you might have finished it by now!
The GT2 is setup with the Behr water to oil cooler, the reason for this is that you do not need to worry about air flow and position of the cooler, and also because it ensures consistent stable cooling. I would do the exact same thing on your car, just the same as the Cup setups as well.
Edit: Just checked the date, you might have finished it by now!
this is the tranny before it went back, you can see the two new return lines, one over 3 and 4th gear and the other over the R+P gears
also below that you can see the new billet stronger tranny cover, followed by where we mounted the cooler in the front driveshaft tunnel.