PSS10 or JIC and a few DE ??s
05-09-2008, 12:04 PM
#17
I've only ever found it online. Here's a place I've dealt with in the past:
http://www.ogracing.com/catalog/2-Ca...RF-BRAKE-FLUID
Not the you're going to use it, but just a comment about ATE Blue since you mentioned it. It's the same as gold and just has dye added. Once you put blue in it's a total pain to get the "blue" out because of the dye and it's has a tendency to stain the fluid reservoir.
http://www.ogracing.com/catalog/2-Ca...RF-BRAKE-FLUID
Not the you're going to use it, but just a comment about ATE Blue since you mentioned it. It's the same as gold and just has dye added. Once you put blue in it's a total pain to get the "blue" out because of the dye and it's has a tendency to stain the fluid reservoir.
05-09-2008, 12:09 PM
#18
Professor of Pending Projects
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I've only ever found it online. Here's a place I've dealt with in the past:
http://www.ogracing.com/catalog/2-Ca...RF-BRAKE-FLUID
Not the you're going to use it, but just a comment about ATE Blue since you mentioned it. It's the same as gold and just has dye added. Once you put blue in it's a total pain to get the "blue" out because of the dye and it's has a tendency to stain the fluid reservoir.
http://www.ogracing.com/catalog/2-Ca...RF-BRAKE-FLUID
Not the you're going to use it, but just a comment about ATE Blue since you mentioned it. It's the same as gold and just has dye added. Once you put blue in it's a total pain to get the "blue" out because of the dye and it's has a tendency to stain the fluid reservoir.
On the ATE blue... I know, I know.... 951 and 964 have blue reservoirs because of it...
05-09-2008, 08:20 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
If you are serious about advice, here it is:
The most important thing is to calm down. You really want to start slow, learn the basics, get smooth, and only then speed up. If you do that, your braking will be longer and lighter, but you won't fade stock brakes or boil the fluid. A really good driver will be much faster in a stock car than any novice in any modified car. You really don't need a lot of parts. Speed comes after smooth, so early on, you shouldn't be wearing out anything.
If I was going to change any parts at all, it would be the rear sway bar and allignment to get some negative camber in the front. Otherwise you will grind off the outside edge of any tire you pick.
In contrast to 38D, I would not start with high pressures. They run up pretty fast on a hot day all by themselves. You will be bleeding air out of the tires after every 5 fast laps. Watch the rears carefully.
Much more important is your instruction, and attention to weight transfer. If I were going to put time into anything before a track day, it woud be rev matched downshifts. If you have laready mastered that, then just go and have a good time. What you really don't want to do is mess around with tools and repairs. Stock works best for that.
For a stock car, I'd just drive there. Your trip home will be much faster and more fun. Trailering adds work at the very end of the day when you least want it. AS
The most important thing is to calm down. You really want to start slow, learn the basics, get smooth, and only then speed up. If you do that, your braking will be longer and lighter, but you won't fade stock brakes or boil the fluid. A really good driver will be much faster in a stock car than any novice in any modified car. You really don't need a lot of parts. Speed comes after smooth, so early on, you shouldn't be wearing out anything.
If I was going to change any parts at all, it would be the rear sway bar and allignment to get some negative camber in the front. Otherwise you will grind off the outside edge of any tire you pick.
In contrast to 38D, I would not start with high pressures. They run up pretty fast on a hot day all by themselves. You will be bleeding air out of the tires after every 5 fast laps. Watch the rears carefully.
Much more important is your instruction, and attention to weight transfer. If I were going to put time into anything before a track day, it woud be rev matched downshifts. If you have laready mastered that, then just go and have a good time. What you really don't want to do is mess around with tools and repairs. Stock works best for that.
For a stock car, I'd just drive there. Your trip home will be much faster and more fun. Trailering adds work at the very end of the day when you least want it. AS
05-09-2008, 09:41 PM
#20
Professor of Pending Projects
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
If you are serious about advice, here it is:
The most important thing is to calm down. You really want to start slow, learn the basics, get smooth, and only then speed up. If you do that, your braking will be longer and lighter, but you won't fade stock brakes or boil the fluid. A really good driver will be much faster in a stock car than any novice in any modified car. You really don't need a lot of parts. Speed comes after smooth, so early on, you shouldn't be wearing out anything.
If I was going to change any parts at all, it would be the rear sway bar and allignment to get some negative camber in the front. Otherwise you will grind off the outside edge of any tire you pick.
In contrast to 38D, I would not start with high pressures. They run up pretty fast on a hot day all by themselves. You will be bleeding air out of the tires after every 5 fast laps. Watch the rears carefully.
Much more important is your instruction, and attention to weight transfer. If I were going to put time into anything before a track day, it woud be rev matched downshifts. If you have laready mastered that, then just go and have a good time. What you really don't want to do is mess around with tools and repairs. Stock works best for that.
For a stock car, I'd just drive there. Your trip home will be much faster and more fun. Trailering adds work at the very end of the day when you least want it. AS
The most important thing is to calm down. You really want to start slow, learn the basics, get smooth, and only then speed up. If you do that, your braking will be longer and lighter, but you won't fade stock brakes or boil the fluid. A really good driver will be much faster in a stock car than any novice in any modified car. You really don't need a lot of parts. Speed comes after smooth, so early on, you shouldn't be wearing out anything.
If I was going to change any parts at all, it would be the rear sway bar and allignment to get some negative camber in the front. Otherwise you will grind off the outside edge of any tire you pick.
In contrast to 38D, I would not start with high pressures. They run up pretty fast on a hot day all by themselves. You will be bleeding air out of the tires after every 5 fast laps. Watch the rears carefully.
Much more important is your instruction, and attention to weight transfer. If I were going to put time into anything before a track day, it woud be rev matched downshifts. If you have laready mastered that, then just go and have a good time. What you really don't want to do is mess around with tools and repairs. Stock works best for that.
For a stock car, I'd just drive there. Your trip home will be much faster and more fun. Trailering adds work at the very end of the day when you least want it. AS
I am doing my homework studying the track diagram I have, I also sent a PM to Tom asking to see if he has additional suggestions since he tracks a similar car (ok, ok, only similar on that it is a 996TT... with the changes, X50, etc... it is a different car by now). But would be good to have an idea of the gear I should be in for each turn.
I got a fresh set of the Michelin PS2 since mine might not be up to spec by the time the DE comes, and these are the same tires I use for my daily driving. Fresh original pads. Will use the rotors in the car and have a spare set at home to replace if they good bad (those are getting close to needing replacement anyway).
Really appreciate the feedback and suggestions. Thank you!
05-09-2008, 10:49 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
cut throught the crap here is what you do. first request me as your instructor, second call me and I will tell you everything you will ever need to know about your car and DE. too much for me to post here, sent you my cell and my email is tkerrmd@aol.com
we will have a blast!!!
we will have a blast!!!
