Mikelly

OK, So today the SAMCO hoses arrived from AWE Tuning... I immediately began the process of getting the car in the air (Two jack stands and a floor jack) and removing the inner fenderwell bolts/ nuts. There are two nuts and 6 Torx screws holding the liner in place. You DON'T need to remove all of these to get to the hose, but it makes total access to everything else much easier. I also was replacing my cut up fender liners with the units Oak sent me (Thank you OAK!!!). Do both sides before removing the bumper cover to make it easier on yourself when removing the bumper cover!

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...erlinernut.jpg

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...linerscrew.jpg

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...coverscrew.jpg

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...innerscrew.jpg



Next remove the two lower and one upper torx screws (or phillips screws in a couple of them) on the sides of the bumper cover (2 at the bottom side, one at the top, inside the upper fender well.) and then work your way around to the back of the lower bumper cover. Unbolt those two screws at the sides near the exhaust tip openning.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...coverscrew.jpg

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...rsidescrew.jpg



Next remove the bumperette plugs on the underside and take a #6 allen socket and unbolt the bumperetters. DON'T scratch them...

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...mallenbolt.jpg

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...retteMount.jpg



Next, Move to the TOP of the bumper and unbolt the cover plate from the top of the bumper (4 phillips screws) and remove it.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...anelScrews.jpg



Next, unbolt each rear tail light assembly (two phillips screws per side) and remove each taillight and slide them out to the REAR of the car. Disconnect the harness and lay them asside.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...ightscrew2.jpg

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...ghtbracket.jpg

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...llightPlug.jpg

Start removing the bumper by removing it from the side shelf below the fender's edge (It's flexible) and allow it to hang to the side of the innercoolers. Pick up the bumper off the rear and unhook the rear backup light/ license plate light harness and make sure to clear the bumperette mounts... I sat the cover on the back of my truck's bed cover.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...endershelf.jpg



http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...fromthecar.jpg



http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...amcohose.1.jpg

Now you can get down to the meat of the project...

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...perremoved.jpg



http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...rbotoint-1.jpg

I started with the lower hoses at the turbo to intercooler... Unsnap each clasp with a small flat blade screw driver, taking note of the orientation of these... Remember, BOTH sides need to be in place (That second SNAP) in order to retain the intercooler side's hose... Take a pic of it if you need to for reference when putting it back in place... Once off, remove the hose clamp and o-ring from each hose and install them on the new hoses... Install the hoses, matching them per side (Each hose is different from every other hose in the kit, so match them up!). Once you have the oring and hose clamp on, reinstal the new hose as the old one was oriented. Make sure the hose clamp is connected properly on the inner rim of the turbo. This hose connection dislodged all the time... Search here for confirmation... Get it right, or you'll be left with a tow bill in the not so distant future!



http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...actoryhose.jpg

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...Samcohose2.jpg

Next, move to the engine bay/intake... Remove each clamp and slide it onto the instake and intercooler port. Remove the hose and replace the o-ringes onto the new hoses. Instal the hoses as oriented in the engine bay. MAKE SURE they seat properly... Again, TAKE BEFORE PICS if you aren't sure of getting them seated properly. As you work the spring clamp back into place, hold the hose FIRMLY into the port of the intake or Intercooler, while manipulating (Huhu huhu, he said manipulating) the spring clamp back around the seat of the hose/pipe. Remember to make them snap TWICE!!



http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...osecomparo.jpg



Once you get them on and TUG on them to try and unseat them, if they hold, you've DONE IT!!! Now start putting everything back on... Start by placing the bumper cover around the body of the car with the sizes resting against the intercoolers. Seat the rear cover over th exhaust tips, feeding the bumperette mounts thru their holes and the upper shelf over the deck lid mount area. Reconnect the backup/license plate light plug, and reseat the sides into their stock locations.



Start reinstalling the bumperettes, the screws for the bumper cover, then the inner fenderwell covers (Thanks again OAK!!!). You're done...With the first FOUR!!!



The Fpipe instal write-up is on Stephen's site at Imagine so I won't try to reinvent that wheel.

My car is officially fixed, and it truly feels faster. Not sure if I had a hose failing or what, but it truly faster, and building max boost quicker than before... MUCH quicker than before!!! Seems to hold peak boost more steady too!



Final installed pipes...

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...hedProduct.jpg

MIke

Land Jet

Thanks for posting this, I'll be doing this shortly. Have you heard anything about the Performance Parts hoses? They are more expensive but don't have any writing on them which could be good for me if I were to move back to California, because they do a visual engine inspection for mods, as well as smog test.

slant911

Mike,

KICK A** write up. Thanks for sharing.

drh

Thanks for taking the time to take photos and explain the process. This kind of thread makes it so much easier for us DIY guys


On a somewhat related note, I removed the front end on my TT yesterday and cleaned the radiators and condenser coils. It was so easy that I am ashamed I had not done it sooner...and it can be done without removing the front wheels too.

Mikelly

Thanks Guys...

What I've found is that "it's just a car". I did all the major work on my 99C5 Corvette, and it appears to be more complex than this TT... In replacing a blown motor, I had to remove the COMPLETE suspension, brakes, and drivetrain, not to mention unbotling every component under the hood... This Porsche seems SOOO much easier to work on...

Don't be affraid to turn wrenches on these cars. I wasted 8 days with my dealer screwing around with the MAS... I'm not even sure the MAS was an issue, as it came home making the same lack of boost .5 bar that it was making when I took it to them... Oh well...

I'm a better man for it.. And I'll be removing the front bumper cover soon for some other mods I have planned!
Mike

ROJOFRO

Digging this up from the grave since I'm new to the 996 T...

Can someone update the pics? They be gone... 2007 gone.....

Lower Turbo to Intercooler hose - the intercooler side clasp... how the hell do you take it off? I'm twisting (can feel play) counter clock & clock, figuring you twist and pull. Not sure how that end where there is the metal coupling works.

Carlo_Carrera

Pull/remove the spring clip?

ROJOFRO

Yep. Now I need a new clip. I bent the F out of it.

Anyone know the part number? Lol...

Carlo_Carrera

It's supposed to look like that.

ROJOFRO

They were pretty bent up. Ordered new ones..

Retaining Spring Clip(Porsche)(m)
Part #: 996-106-802-11-OEM

If you look at the retaining clip one end terminates "up" and the other "down"... do these ends snap into a hole or something in the channel it rests in on the coupler?

theprf

There are notches in the intercooler plastic end tanks the bent ends drop into, when it's properly secured. To get the clip out without bending it you need to lift the bent ends out of the notches.