Billet Shift Link
06-23-2007, 11:47 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Billet Shift Link
Has anyone had any problems with the upgraded billlet shift link? I had it come loose a few weeks ago (the allen screws came loose). Then I put some thread lock on them and it felt nice and tight for a few drives and today I felt some play in it again. WTF? Could it be a defective shift link or did I do something wrong? There really isn't anything you can muff on this thing. Slap it on, tighten it up, done.
06-24-2007, 07:46 PM
#3
Racer
Join Date: Jun 2001
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I bought one with my SSK and couldn't get the threaded cable end to fit so that the set screws would bite. I was not impressed with the quality and just installed the SSK with the OEM part. No regrets.
06-27-2007, 06:34 PM
#4
Pro
Join Date: Dec 2004
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Just had one installed with the SSK and I think it's a good match! The bushing and unit is built strong and it would take a sledge hammer throw to break this thing loose unlike the POS plastic stock unit. I recommend it since it's only a $100 insurance to never have the linkage break again.
06-28-2007, 01:40 AM
#6
Race Director
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The stock peice is plenty durable, just keep a spare if you're worried(15$). One of the biggest cons going, the stock units have logged thousands of street and track miles, factory cups/grand am cars have them for crap sake. Why in the world would porsche choose to cut such a drastic corner to save 10$ worth of aluminum billet. Mine(c4s) had 64k on it, tons of hard street/track driving, zero issues. I think the engineers got it right, they're not as dimwitted as the tuners would have you believe. 
06-28-2007, 07:02 AM
#7
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by TT Surgeon
One of the biggest cons going, the stock units have logged thousands of street and track miles, factory cups/grand am cars have them for crap sake.
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06-28-2007, 01:09 PM
#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by TT Surgeon
The stock peice is plenty durable, just keep a spare if you're worried(15$). One of the biggest cons going, the stock units have logged thousands of street and track miles, factory cups/grand am cars have them for crap sake. Why in the world would porsche choose to cut such a drastic corner to save 10$ worth of aluminum billet. Mine(c4s) had 64k on it, tons of hard street/track driving, zero issues. I think the engineers got it right, they're not as dimwitted as the tuners would have you believe.
06-28-2007, 03:13 PM
#10
Three Wheelin'
I've had B&M with out the EVO link and it's been great no problems. funny how the evo end links reminded me of the old porsche vw aftermarket accellerator cable adaptors you could purchase. you had to hack off the cable ends that were pressed in from the factory. the pressed in end from the factory would eventually break or fray and you had to replace the entire cable, the aftermarket adaptor was to eliminate this problem. the only thing is that the aftermarket adaptor would loosen out and you had this same exact problem with the evo units. you could crank down on the smalll allen head to the point of virtually stripping out the thread and eventually it will back out. the cable would back out more often then the stock units would fray or break. would have been better off just leaving it stock and buy an extra cable to leave in the car as back up. lol. when I saw the evo units the old memories came rushing back.
06-28-2007, 03:48 PM
#11
I dunno.. my stock piece wore out pretty good when i was doing it on my Boxster 4 years ago... and supposedly a common problem with 996/986
here's more info: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...528#post180528
I have a turbo now, and I'm afraid to look at what the shift link looks like.
So not sure if it's all a scam TT Surgeon. Plus they say the GT3R has it in steel, not that rubber stuff...
here's more info: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...528#post180528
I have a turbo now, and I'm afraid to look at what the shift link looks like.
So not sure if it's all a scam TT Surgeon. Plus they say the GT3R has it in steel, not that rubber stuff...
06-28-2007, 07:41 PM
#13
Race Car
Mine also popped out after EVO themselves installed it. Like you, I retightened the set screws and used lock-tite. No problem since. Kinda sucks getting stuck out on the road in 3rd gear.
07-01-2007, 05:36 PM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I switched back to the OEM shift link (brand new). I really don't understand how this thing could snap. The part is very thick and it would take alot of effort just to take one in your hand and snap it in two, if it can be done. Does Manthey or RUF or any other European tuner recommend changing the shift link? It was very notchy with the billet link, I must admit that the shifting now feels smoother, very similiar to a gate shift. I guess I will take my chances with the OEM part. At least I know that there aren't any allen screws that will come loose.
Last edited by 9Eleven; 07-02-2007 at 07:56 AM.
