Clutch Question - How easy should it be to depress?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Nashville
Posts: 641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hard to describe BUT ..... I have an 02 turbo. The clutch is easier to depress than on my previous 996 but I drove an 02 TT (before I bought my existing one) and there was almost no effort to depress the clutuch pedal.
Any feedback on how easy the hydrolic clutch should be to depress? Thx
Any feedback on how easy the hydrolic clutch should be to depress? Thx
#5
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had the same feeling of difference between my previous 2001 C4 and the 2001 TT the clutch is A LOT easier to depress on the TT.
One thing also that seems to be re-occuring is that their is a lot of diagnostic of bad clutch that are only the accumulator.
I had a PPI done on the 27k miles TT I got. The Porsche Dealer called for a replacement of the clutch for $4k and also change the accumulator... I negotiated with the seller regarding the clutch condition, after driving the car and made a deal to take it like that with the intention of having the clutch changed myslef instead of the dealer.
The clutch felt a little weired but worked fine, after searching the various boards I decided to change the accumulator first for $110/part and about $150/labor before jumping into a clutch job... Also I found strange that a car with 27k miles with one small Stage 1 over-rev when the car had 5 hours and no stage 2 over-rev (meaning to me the car was not tracked) would need a clutch...
Sure enough the clutch has worked fine with the new Accumulator and feels a lot lighter than the C4.
Hope this helps,
G.L.
Part reference:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...FILTER_TOOL=ON
One thing also that seems to be re-occuring is that their is a lot of diagnostic of bad clutch that are only the accumulator.
I had a PPI done on the 27k miles TT I got. The Porsche Dealer called for a replacement of the clutch for $4k and also change the accumulator... I negotiated with the seller regarding the clutch condition, after driving the car and made a deal to take it like that with the intention of having the clutch changed myslef instead of the dealer.
The clutch felt a little weired but worked fine, after searching the various boards I decided to change the accumulator first for $110/part and about $150/labor before jumping into a clutch job... Also I found strange that a car with 27k miles with one small Stage 1 over-rev when the car had 5 hours and no stage 2 over-rev (meaning to me the car was not tracked) would need a clutch...
Sure enough the clutch has worked fine with the new Accumulator and feels a lot lighter than the C4.
Hope this helps,
G.L.
Part reference:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...FILTER_TOOL=ON
#6
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by glh
One thing also that seems to be re-occuring is that their is a lot of diagnostic of bad clutch that are only the accumulator.
#7
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Always was ......waaaaay too much power-assist dialed in on the 996TT clutch (IMHO)....and many would say too much travel also.
When she came out, there were many comments.
I can not speak for current Turbo but between 993,986,996, Caymen and 997, the 996TT has the lightest clutch..........you get used to it. But for me it's more of a 'challenge' on the track.
When she came out, there were many comments.
I can not speak for current Turbo but between 993,986,996, Caymen and 997, the 996TT has the lightest clutch..........you get used to it. But for me it's more of a 'challenge' on the track.