Best Turbo Swap for the 996TT
08-06-2005, 11:42 PM
#16
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: rocklin ca
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gee I'm worried now just ordered kevins stage two 1.3 am running unichip two maps one for pump gas one for 100..never a prob. am running 1 bar at present what do you guys think???
08-07-2005, 12:26 AM
#18
Originally Posted by Kevin
The frequency valve might have 1bar of pressure upstream, but it might only be allowing .4bars and the gates will just start opening.
Originally Posted by Kevin
Another thing.. The .5bar measurement that you mentioned is just a reference, infact the gates have already started to open up prior to .5bars.
-If the wastegate proload is increased will that increase peak boost?
thanks, I enjoy learning about this stuff.
08-07-2005, 12:28 AM
#19
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kevin yes schatz N krum . stuart krum installed the unichip. mustang dyno know the drill... he gets the car right after the turbos are installed a twenty min drive guess I'll keep it out of boost.....
08-07-2005, 12:39 AM
#20
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Steve you need 100 miles to break in the turbochargers before slapping them on the dyno..
ebaker.. I used that as a ECU situation. If you have good octane and good intercooler temps the ECU might allow more boost--like the 1bar+ but the frequency valve is constantly being adjusted..
The 1bar is manifold pressure.. It doesn't go directly to the turbocharger actuators... What I'm trying to say is that there are certain times that the pressure allowed to open the actuators is alot less than positive manifold pressure.
Yes, jump under your car and turn the nuts clockwise 2 turns and you will notice it..
To a certain degree.. The ECU will can actually work against you if you jack the pretension through the roof. The best situation is to have the ECU programmed for a higher boost threshold. Then install a higher rated spring in the actuator which I manufacture..
ebaker.. I used that as a ECU situation. If you have good octane and good intercooler temps the ECU might allow more boost--like the 1bar+ but the frequency valve is constantly being adjusted..
The 1bar is manifold pressure.. It doesn't go directly to the turbocharger actuators... What I'm trying to say is that there are certain times that the pressure allowed to open the actuators is alot less than positive manifold pressure.
Yes, jump under your car and turn the nuts clockwise 2 turns and you will notice it..
To a certain degree.. The ECU will can actually work against you if you jack the pretension through the roof. The best situation is to have the ECU programmed for a higher boost threshold. Then install a higher rated spring in the actuator which I manufacture..
08-07-2005, 04:15 AM
#24
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Steve, I'm saying that you need to seat the sealing rings before they get flogged on a dyno.. 100 miles breakin. First 50 miles no boost in city driving, stop and go driving.. Alot of heat cycles.. Engine on, engine off.. Next 50 miles start bringing the boost on.. Gradual at first..
08-09-2005, 12:35 AM
#27
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FWIW, I've been running Kevin's ported Stage II with billet backing plates, and ported and ceramic-coated headers for a while now with Upsolute's Stage II programming. I originally had their Stage I with zero issues (455rwhp/505rwtq dynojet). So, when the time came to upgrade to Kevin's stage II, I followed the lead of another 996T owner (Bill) and after a couple revisions with Upsolute's USA rep, the ecu has worked great.
I would say that the cold-weather situation has not been perfected... say around freezing (ex. Chicago, my old home). It'll trigger fail-safe, and you'll have to boost through it a couple runs to get through it (no reset needed). So, if you live in areas where it's very cold, you'll have to keep boost closer to 1.0BAR in the winter time, or use another chip programer that has it perfected. I think Stephen (IA/Evo) may have the problem licked.
In warmer weather (no freezing weather, Cali - my current home), I don't have any issues. I'm running an conservative 1.1BAR, which is around what a Evo Stave IV puts out. I'm looking into a manual boost controler setup to make the boost level rock steady, and will upgrade the actuators to Kevin's newer style (if need be). The springs are stronger, and will hold the wastegate close longer (more aggresive spoolup), while the MBC will keep spikes down, thus allowing you to run closer to target boost without spiking over and triggering fail-safe mode. I'll post my findings as they come to light.
I would say that the cold-weather situation has not been perfected... say around freezing (ex. Chicago, my old home). It'll trigger fail-safe, and you'll have to boost through it a couple runs to get through it (no reset needed). So, if you live in areas where it's very cold, you'll have to keep boost closer to 1.0BAR in the winter time, or use another chip programer that has it perfected. I think Stephen (IA/Evo) may have the problem licked.
In warmer weather (no freezing weather, Cali - my current home), I don't have any issues. I'm running an conservative 1.1BAR, which is around what a Evo Stave IV puts out. I'm looking into a manual boost controler setup to make the boost level rock steady, and will upgrade the actuators to Kevin's newer style (if need be). The springs are stronger, and will hold the wastegate close longer (more aggresive spoolup), while the MBC will keep spikes down, thus allowing you to run closer to target boost without spiking over and triggering fail-safe mode. I'll post my findings as they come to light.