wormdoggy

Great read..........thanks for sharing.
Would also like to see and article on " How to properly maintain your Turbo once you purchase it". The does and dont's of Turbo ownership.
Does this article exist anywhere?

Cheers and safe driving.

Torags

Kevin you are a font of good info. When was the last time you were called a font?

The point made in your posts is strong. It's counter intuitive to leave the car run when filling up (gas). So I would assume the seals are shot in any turbo w 20K or more.

How much is the install of the new seals and is it a good idea to install a new cooler turbine wheel (that you recommend)

yetis

Torags or Kevin:
While I think I can pick most of these things out in the engine, is there an 996 TT engine schematic that you are aware of? It would make the engine inspection go alot smoother.

Thanks

CJ

Kevin

Torags, my point with the fueling of your car, is to stage the car and let it idle prior to filling up.. I don't advocate idling in front of the pumps... If the car isn't smoking, I wouldn't lose sleep over it..

yetis, I really don't no of any publication for the TT engine, other than the factory manuals.. The turbochargers are easily found under the car..

Torags

How bout the cost of new seals and new cooler turbine wheel (you know, the one you have in your car)?

Yetis, I did post a schematic of the turbo process (not specfic to pcars), it's in the same website as the "tips". It helped me understand the basics. Kevin is the real deal, he knows where the rubber meets the road.

Kevin

PM me

Torags

Kevin, consider yourself PM'd.........

Swagger93

I disagree with some of the things they say to look for.

Namely:
3. Receipts from previous turbo repairs. Proof of a reputable service history.
*Only turbo repairs? How often do turbos need repairing?
4. Aftermarket turbo remanufacturer’s name plate. Has the turbo been replaced before and by whom ? Be suspicious if the repair was not carried out by a reputable company.
*Define turbo repair. A rebuild? It would take me a few hours to install a turbo by myself in almost any car, so if it is installation, why does it have to be so reputable. A few seals, a few properly torqued nuts.
10. Non-genuine hose clips. May indicate poor workmanship.
*The OEM obviously contracted God to manufacture their special hose clamps.
18. Non genuine oil filter. A sign of cost cutting when servicing a car.
*I thought mobile 1 made the best filters, fully synthetic element. Again, not going to pay 10 times the price for a simple maintainence part.
24. Rubbing or split Intercooler hoses. This will cause low boost and a loss of power.
*Intercooler hoses are moving parts? Woah.
29. Uprated or non genuine exhaust system. Reducing the exhaust back pressure with a free flow exhaust system can cause oil leakage from the turbo oil seals, leading to blue exhaust oil smoke.
*I've run a turbo car with almost no exhaust system for 40,000 miles. Is my turbo billowing blue smoke? I'd think an uprated exhaust system would be a bonus.
1. Whistling noise on acceleration. Turbo imbalance or air leak.
*Every turbo car I've owned or driven, aside from my 944, has made a whining sounds while spinning up.

"It cannot be stressed too much how important it is, when purchasing a replacement turbocharger, always to choose the top brand name -Turbo Technics. Consider this. As with so many things in life, quality costs, and there are sometimes cheaper turbos for sale. Without the safeguard of using a Turbo Technics turbocharger, you run a serious risk that your short-term saving may turn out to be a long-term nightmare."
*That is so important! Manufacturers such as Garrett, Mitsubishi, and KKK have no clue how to design, build, or balance turbos. Those OEM's you see with 40k on them on ebay, those are horrible. They will cause catastrophic failures; your wrist pins will be sent flying through the head like projectiles out of a 400mm **** flack cannon. Watch out, those ME-262's are ferocious!