Lightened Flywheels??
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I have a stage 3 set up on my 01 996TT with the hybrid GT-1 turbos. I also run race gas with 1.3 bar. My clutch started to slip almost immediately after all the upgrades.
Does anyone recommend the EVO stage II clutch and lightened flywheel set up?? Or should I just get the upgraded clutch only?? I love the way motors rev with light flywheels, but am not sure about drivablilty and actual HP or acceleration difference there might be.
Any info or advise on this would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks
Does anyone recommend the EVO stage II clutch and lightened flywheel set up?? Or should I just get the upgraded clutch only?? I love the way motors rev with light flywheels, but am not sure about drivablilty and actual HP or acceleration difference there might be.
Any info or advise on this would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks
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May have idling issues when coming off revs and coming to a stop. Not sure exactly what the cause maybe. Ive heard something to do with timing. Not sure if anyone has found a solution. Let us know if you do.
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Here is the best light-weight unit that you can buy. If you do not want to spend the monies on the carbon clutch, you can purchase the early 7.25" GT2 Clutch.. The package shown weighs less than 13lbs.. https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...4&page=7&pp=15
Scroll down the page....
With the HP level that you are at, your crankshaft is rotating an extra 35lbs of mass.. I'd at least upgrade to the latest GT2 pressure plate and lightweight flywheel.
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With the HP level that you are at, your crankshaft is rotating an extra 35lbs of mass.. I'd at least upgrade to the latest GT2 pressure plate and lightweight flywheel.
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Originally Posted by Oak
May have idling issues when coming off revs and coming to a stop. Not sure exactly what the cause maybe. Ive heard something to do with timing. Not sure if anyone has found a solution. Let us know if you do.
I love driving woth the light flywheel. She's definately a bitch to get rolling again when stopped on a steep uphill slope though
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Oh yah... I got mine from Stephen @ Imagine Auto.
Mike
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I have recently heard that a lightened flywheel can damage the rear main seal of the engine? Is there any basis to this? Has anyone experienced this?
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Alex;
BS, BS, BS,,, the GT3RS has a LWF coming out from the factory. If you have damage occuring to your main seal, then the wrench doesn't know how to install factory components.. We are sitting here questioning the install, (993TT and 996TT)when you can go over to the GT3 board and look at all the folks that have installed the LWF..
BS, BS, BS,,, the GT3RS has a LWF coming out from the factory. If you have damage occuring to your main seal, then the wrench doesn't know how to install factory components.. We are sitting here questioning the install, (993TT and 996TT)when you can go over to the GT3 board and look at all the folks that have installed the LWF..
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The guys at GMG are the ones who told me this. I wanted to have them install a new clutch and light flywheel and they suggested I do not change the flywheel becouse of possible main seal failure...
Who would you recomend to have this job done on my 996tt near Orange County Ca??
Who would you recomend to have this job done on my 996tt near Orange County Ca??
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A lightweight flywhell takes more clutch slipping to get rolling in normal (slow) street driving. With a heavy flywheel you can keep the engine RPM's very low when starting from a dead stop. I've also heard that the lightweight flywheels make a lot of rattling noise at idle.
The rear main seal contacts the crankshaft, so it shouldn't be affected by a flywheel change.
Another thing to look at is the mandrel spring in the clutch disk. It's a wavy piece of thin steel that fits between the metal disk and the friction pads. A street disk has a more curved mandrel that cushions the pressure plate engagement and makes engagement progressive. A racing disk has no mandrel spring. This gives a much quicker cleaner release for quicker shifts. However it makes the clutch engage too quick in street driving. It also causes the clutch to shudder when it's being slipped.
The rear main seal contacts the crankshaft, so it shouldn't be affected by a flywheel change.
Another thing to look at is the mandrel spring in the clutch disk. It's a wavy piece of thin steel that fits between the metal disk and the friction pads. A street disk has a more curved mandrel that cushions the pressure plate engagement and makes engagement progressive. A racing disk has no mandrel spring. This gives a much quicker cleaner release for quicker shifts. However it makes the clutch engage too quick in street driving. It also causes the clutch to shudder when it's being slipped.
Last edited by ebaker; 01-12-2005 at 11:50 AM.
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I guess I misunderstood GMG. What they are saying is that the main bearing closest to the flywheel has the potential of getting excessive wear due to a lightened flywheel... This is due to not having the harmonic balancer which is built into the OEM flywheel.. Furthermore, they are saying that I will maybe experience some vibration due to the same reason (removing the harmonic balancer built into the OEM Flywheel)...
Is this true? Has anyone experienced this?
Is this true? Has anyone experienced this?
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Alex;
They are wrong... The flat six engine is inherently balanced. 99% of flywheels made today are balanced during the manufacturing process.. Yes, the stock flywheel dampens noise transmitted through the drivetrain. You have to realize that for 24 years Porsche didn't run a heavy mass flywheel in the 911 and 930's. I can say that there is going to be thrust bearing wear from the 30lbs weight that the crankshaft has to turn??? I have not seen any accelerated bearing wear with light-weight flywheels in any Porsche, the bearings used in your engine were designed 40 years ago, the design hasn't changed. Like many have stated it will take you a short while to figure out your new clutch, and if you slip the clutch and heat up the lining you will risk smoking the clutch and can get the dreaded clutch chatter...
EDIT.. Before you make your decision.. Find someone in LA that has a lightweight clutch 965, 993, 993TT, GT2, GT3.. It will all be the same design, and ask them if you can take it for a test drive... Or at a minimum ride with them..
They are wrong... The flat six engine is inherently balanced. 99% of flywheels made today are balanced during the manufacturing process.. Yes, the stock flywheel dampens noise transmitted through the drivetrain. You have to realize that for 24 years Porsche didn't run a heavy mass flywheel in the 911 and 930's. I can say that there is going to be thrust bearing wear from the 30lbs weight that the crankshaft has to turn??? I have not seen any accelerated bearing wear with light-weight flywheels in any Porsche, the bearings used in your engine were designed 40 years ago, the design hasn't changed. Like many have stated it will take you a short while to figure out your new clutch, and if you slip the clutch and heat up the lining you will risk smoking the clutch and can get the dreaded clutch chatter...
EDIT.. Before you make your decision.. Find someone in LA that has a lightweight clutch 965, 993, 993TT, GT2, GT3.. It will all be the same design, and ask them if you can take it for a test drive... Or at a minimum ride with them..
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I have pulled ton of motors down to rebuild or build up with L/W flywheels. I have never seen excessive wear based on the flywheel being light. I have seen thrust issues with weight and with extra accessories driving off of the motor. The lack of weight though will not throw the balance off. The only way I can see anything remotely close is the 964 crank. If you pulled the dampener off and ran the RS setup without straightening and balancing THAT crank then I have seen issues. The 993 crank was straight and balanced. The factory corrected those issues. Even if they did give us smaller bearing journals. FWIW the 996TT has the same crank.
I would drive a car with the setup. It is not for everyone. It does take a different procedure to drive and not all will adapt. I like mine, but I have owned some clutches that made the L/W stuff look like a old ninny setup.
I would drive a car with the setup. It is not for everyone. It does take a different procedure to drive and not all will adapt. I like mine, but I have owned some clutches that made the L/W stuff look like a old ninny setup.
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Alex.......my set-up is similer to yours and I've been happy with the Sachs High Performance motorsport set up (still running OE flywheel).
This is still organic lining on the disk but it's worn well, very easy to drive, slightly smaller 'window of engagement' than OE.
This is still organic lining on the disk but it's worn well, very easy to drive, slightly smaller 'window of engagement' than OE.
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Thanks Guys!!!! Your input is very appreciated!!!!!!!!!! I guess I will try to find a 996TT with a L/F and see how it drives first... At least I'm not worried about any ill effects on the engine!
Thanks again
Thanks again