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Old 06-25-2020, 04:52 PM
  #16  
pfbz
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I am curious about this 2nd gear pop out because that seems to be an expensive fix. What would you say the best way to test for it would be?
As mentioned, i've never once seen it. My hunch is that it was a batch of transmission parts or assembly made out of tolerance, of which most have already had the issue and been repaired or are otherwise out of service...

I think it manifests during throttle on/off when in second gear... Leave the car is second for a few minutes and vary the throttle input.

Does anyone on the forum know of a car that *developed* second gear pop-out in the past year or two? I don't....
Old 06-25-2020, 04:59 PM
  #17  
srop816
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Originally Posted by pfbz
As mentioned, i've never once seen it. My hunch is that it was a batch of transmission parts or assembly made out of tolerance, of which most have already had the issue and been repaired or are otherwise out of service...

I think it manifests during throttle on/off when in second gear... Leave the car is second for a few minutes and vary the throttle input.

Does anyone on the forum know of a car that *developed* second gear pop-out in the past year or two? I don't....
ahh okay that makes me feel a bit better. So at this point in the car's life it's probably going to do it or not do it.
Old 06-25-2020, 05:42 PM
  #18  
tom__w
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Originally Posted by srop816
Wow, thank you very much for this input! I've got an 02 4s. I dealt with the IMS/RMS/clutch as soon as I got it. Now the only thing that keeps me up at night is bore scoring! non of the issues you mentioned above scare me too much. I am curious about this 2nd gear pop out because that seems to be an expensive fix. What would you say the best way to test for it would be? Obviously if its grinding or making any noises that would be suspect. Also, I've head to put it in 2nd while going down a hill. Any other methods to test this 2nd gear issue?

thanks!
I was in the EXACT same boat. I fixed the IMS (Solution from LN), AOS, RMS and coolant tank almost as soon as I got my 04 C4S. Then the front end became noisy and the car felt broken.

Fixed the 2 front strut mounts and the car was like new again. But I couldn't get over the bore scoring nightmare. So I got an 04 TT X50 with PCCB. It's a cab / tip so none of those pesky 2nd gear issues for me.

Good luck with your search.
Old 06-25-2020, 07:13 PM
  #19  
k9turbo
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Originally Posted by srop816
ahh okay that makes me feel a bit better. So at this point in the car's life it's probably going to do it or not do it.
i have fairly extensive experience with the issue in an 02 x50.

only 01 and 02 MY's were affected. so the 02 you're looking at has the potentially incorrect shim specs from the factory. mileage matters but very low mileage 996 02's exhibited this malady.

i have never once heard of any year after 02 become afflicted. i now have an 03. never any issue. the m96 g50 box was built with new specs for MY 03 and beyond.
Old 06-25-2020, 10:56 PM
  #20  
Skyman911
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Some good advice here. I myself upgraded to a 996TT from a 996 Targa at the first of the year. I looked at a lot of cars. Drove quite a few as well. Make sure you drive a few. I drove some real dogs and some real nice rides. I looked for almost 8 months to find the right one. If you look at enough of them you will know the right one when it comes around. Good time to buy now. A lot of the cars I was looking at are still available with large price drops. Good luck with your search.
Old 06-25-2020, 11:12 PM
  #21  
pancing
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Originally Posted by srop816
Hey Everyone,

I'm looking to trade up my 4s to a turbo. I'm pretty familiar with the m96 engine, but haven't spent a whole lot of time looking into the turbos. I hear the Mezger is a solid engine. much more so than the m96.

I know about the coolant lines, but what other items should be looked out for when searching for a turbo? I've heard a lot about this 2nd gear pop out issue. Is this a big deal? easily fixed?

any help on things to look out for would be very helpful. I'm not sure I'd be able to get a PPi done on the car i'm considering due to location

i currently have my eyes on a 02 turbo 6 speed

many thanks!
Expect water pump to die if it hasnt been replaced recently
Cvboots
rms leaking
Left turbo wg actuator (straight) rod corroding and falling off.
wg seizing
Coolant tank
Leaky boost system
front differential leaking.

Everything can and will break.
the car gives you signs ie coolant dripping from driver side intercooler outlet usually means failing coolant tank.

Honking or kazoo noise is failing diverter valve.
Exhaust tips hanging more than 1 inch means sagging motor mounts or improper tip placement.

Coolant line thing is beat to death in several threads.

2nd gear pop out will make itself evident from high load high rpm pull and engine brake. You either have it or dont most have been fixed some (mine) more than once.

Some cars say "stock" but some have been modded and reverted to stock. Sort of hard to see what was modded.

Push down on the front of the car after a drive when the car is HOT if its bouncy, squeaky and clunky you need new struts, rears stay pretty stiff.

fuel pump can go spectacularly leaving you stranded or your car will just die in your garage. Wont throw any codes and will leave you wondering. Venturi lines can split from age and fuel line on pump assy can split.

You need to keep the car on a tender if you dont drive it alot... Even if you do, put it on a tender anyway.

Tail light tabs will crack and if ur luck theyll fall out when you open your engine latch next.

Window regulators can go more annoying than anything.

Door lock can get jammed in heat, punching door handle will get it to open.

Its a great easily tuneable engine built on a ahem budget frame.

I love my 996tt
In the wise words of my tuner...
" mike, you need to learn how to work on your car. "

My words to you, if you can change brembo calipers on this car, you can pretty much do anything that doesnt require dropping the engine.

Nothing on these cars is a big deal
unless the dme readout is 65555 range 1 and 65555 range 2 on a "bone stock never been raced" car with 22k miles.

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Old 06-26-2020, 02:18 AM
  #22  
k9turbo
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Originally Posted by pancing
Expect water pump to die if it hasnt been replaced recently
Cvboots
rms leaking
Left turbo wg actuator (straight) rod corroding and falling off.
wg seizing
Coolant tank
Leaky boost system
front differential leaking.

Everything can and will break.
the car gives you signs ie coolant dripping from driver side intercooler outlet usually means failing coolant tank.

Honking or kazoo noise is failing diverter valve.
Exhaust tips hanging more than 1 inch means sagging motor mounts or improper tip placement.

Coolant line thing is beat to death in several threads.

2nd gear pop out will make itself evident from high load high rpm pull and engine brake. You either have it or dont most have been fixed some (mine) more than once.

Some cars say "stock" but some have been modded and reverted to stock. Sort of hard to see what was modded.

Push down on the front of the car after a drive when the car is HOT if its bouncy, squeaky and clunky you need new struts, rears stay pretty stiff.

fuel pump can go spectacularly leaving you stranded or your car will just die in your garage. Wont throw any codes and will leave you wondering. Venturi lines can split from age and fuel line on pump assy can split.

You need to keep the car on a tender if you dont drive it alot... Even if you do, put it on a tender anyway.

Tail light tabs will crack and if ur luck theyll fall out when you open your engine latch next.

Window regulators can go more annoying than anything.

Door lock can get jammed in heat, punching door handle will get it to open.

Its a great easily tuneable engine built on a ahem budget frame.

I love my 996tt
In the wise words of my tuner...
" mike, you need to learn how to work on your car. "

My words to you, if you can change brembo calipers on this car, you can pretty much do anything that doesnt require dropping the engine.

Nothing on these cars is a big deal
unless the dme readout is 65555 range 1 and 65555 range 2 on a "bone stock never been raced" car with 22k miles.
great post. possibly the best of yours to date

i'm sure glad i didn't buy your car and the OP is now looking for a low miles m3 lol
Old 06-26-2020, 08:23 AM
  #23  
pancing
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Originally Posted by k9turbo
great post. possibly the best of yours to date

i'm sure glad i didn't buy your car and the OP is now looking for a low miles m3 lol
Thanks. Got it for semi cheap.
Old 06-26-2020, 08:53 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by srop816
Thank you very much. I will read this thread

I wore myself out learning everything about the 4s. Im starting to get that feeling again already with looking at turbos.

I have a really good 4s. Not sure if a move to turbo is the right choice or not.
it is. I had a 4S, went to a turbo. Now I have 4 in the garage.
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Old 06-26-2020, 11:01 AM
  #25  
kamlung
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Originally Posted by srop816
What would you say the best way to test for it would be? Obviously if its grinding or making any noises that would be suspect. Also, I've head to put it in 2nd while going down a hill. Any other methods to test this 2nd gear issue?
the way i tested it was to get the car into second gear and took it almost all the way to redline... then just let off the pedal and let it engine brake... watch and see if the shifter pops out... the other way you mentioned would be to engine brake down a hill in 2nd but if you can't find any hills on your test drive and engine brake from high revs should be sufficient and you will know quickly if it pops out...
Old 06-26-2020, 11:07 AM
  #26  
s65e90
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Originally Posted by kamlung
the way i tested it was to get the car into second gear and took it almost all the way to redline... then just let off the pedal and let it engine brake... watch and see if the shifter pops out... the other way you mentioned would be to engine brake down a hill in 2nd but if you can't find any hills on your test drive and engine brake from high revs should be sufficient and you will know quickly if it pops out...
Up a hill.
Old 06-26-2020, 11:09 AM
  #27  
kamlung
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well i done messed that up then...
Old 06-26-2020, 11:30 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by kamlung
well i done messed that up then...
I mean I guess either would work, but many have said to just find a small hill go up in 2nd gear and let off and see if the load going uphill will force the trans out of gear.
Old 06-26-2020, 11:36 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by s65e90
I mean I guess either would work, but many have said to just find a small hill go up in 2nd gear and let off and see if the load going uphill will force the trans out of gear.
I figured downhill also, assuming the goal is to maximize the strain on the gearbox with engine braking. Going uphill, gravity relieves some of that strain.

-V
Old 06-26-2020, 11:37 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Vendetta NY
I figured downhill also, assuming the goal is to maximize the strain on the gearbox with engine braking. Going uphill, fighting gravity relieves some of that strain.

-V
You bring up the revs and let off. It's that shock which then pops it out of gear. Going up the hill aids in that. Downhill you're already moving. Uphill will be more of a shock as the hill itself kills momentum.

I guess both should work though, I was just taught going up.


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