new to turbo. looking for a bid of advice
#16
Rennlist Member
I am curious about this 2nd gear pop out because that seems to be an expensive fix. What would you say the best way to test for it would be?
I think it manifests during throttle on/off when in second gear... Leave the car is second for a few minutes and vary the throttle input.
Does anyone on the forum know of a car that *developed* second gear pop-out in the past year or two? I don't....
#17
As mentioned, i've never once seen it. My hunch is that it was a batch of transmission parts or assembly made out of tolerance, of which most have already had the issue and been repaired or are otherwise out of service...
I think it manifests during throttle on/off when in second gear... Leave the car is second for a few minutes and vary the throttle input.
Does anyone on the forum know of a car that *developed* second gear pop-out in the past year or two? I don't....
I think it manifests during throttle on/off when in second gear... Leave the car is second for a few minutes and vary the throttle input.
Does anyone on the forum know of a car that *developed* second gear pop-out in the past year or two? I don't....
#18
Rennlist Member
Wow, thank you very much for this input! I've got an 02 4s. I dealt with the IMS/RMS/clutch as soon as I got it. Now the only thing that keeps me up at night is bore scoring! non of the issues you mentioned above scare me too much. I am curious about this 2nd gear pop out because that seems to be an expensive fix. What would you say the best way to test for it would be? Obviously if its grinding or making any noises that would be suspect. Also, I've head to put it in 2nd while going down a hill. Any other methods to test this 2nd gear issue?
thanks!
thanks!
Fixed the 2 front strut mounts and the car was like new again. But I couldn't get over the bore scoring nightmare. So I got an 04 TT X50 with PCCB. It's a cab / tip so none of those pesky 2nd gear issues for me.
Good luck with your search.
#19
only 01 and 02 MY's were affected. so the 02 you're looking at has the potentially incorrect shim specs from the factory. mileage matters but very low mileage 996 02's exhibited this malady.
i have never once heard of any year after 02 become afflicted. i now have an 03. never any issue. the m96 g50 box was built with new specs for MY 03 and beyond.
#20
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Join Date: Jan 2019
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Some good advice here. I myself upgraded to a 996TT from a 996 Targa at the first of the year. I looked at a lot of cars. Drove quite a few as well. Make sure you drive a few. I drove some real dogs and some real nice rides. I looked for almost 8 months to find the right one. If you look at enough of them you will know the right one when it comes around. Good time to buy now. A lot of the cars I was looking at are still available with large price drops. Good luck with your search.
#21
Drifting
Hey Everyone,
I'm looking to trade up my 4s to a turbo. I'm pretty familiar with the m96 engine, but haven't spent a whole lot of time looking into the turbos. I hear the Mezger is a solid engine. much more so than the m96.
I know about the coolant lines, but what other items should be looked out for when searching for a turbo? I've heard a lot about this 2nd gear pop out issue. Is this a big deal? easily fixed?
any help on things to look out for would be very helpful. I'm not sure I'd be able to get a PPi done on the car i'm considering due to location
i currently have my eyes on a 02 turbo 6 speed
many thanks!
I'm looking to trade up my 4s to a turbo. I'm pretty familiar with the m96 engine, but haven't spent a whole lot of time looking into the turbos. I hear the Mezger is a solid engine. much more so than the m96.
I know about the coolant lines, but what other items should be looked out for when searching for a turbo? I've heard a lot about this 2nd gear pop out issue. Is this a big deal? easily fixed?
any help on things to look out for would be very helpful. I'm not sure I'd be able to get a PPi done on the car i'm considering due to location
i currently have my eyes on a 02 turbo 6 speed
many thanks!
Cvboots
rms leaking
Left turbo wg actuator (straight) rod corroding and falling off.
wg seizing
Coolant tank
Leaky boost system
front differential leaking.
Everything can and will break.
the car gives you signs ie coolant dripping from driver side intercooler outlet usually means failing coolant tank.
Honking or kazoo noise is failing diverter valve.
Exhaust tips hanging more than 1 inch means sagging motor mounts or improper tip placement.
Coolant line thing is beat to death in several threads.
2nd gear pop out will make itself evident from high load high rpm pull and engine brake. You either have it or dont most have been fixed some (mine) more than once.
Some cars say "stock" but some have been modded and reverted to stock. Sort of hard to see what was modded.
Push down on the front of the car after a drive when the car is HOT if its bouncy, squeaky and clunky you need new struts, rears stay pretty stiff.
fuel pump can go spectacularly leaving you stranded or your car will just die in your garage. Wont throw any codes and will leave you wondering. Venturi lines can split from age and fuel line on pump assy can split.
You need to keep the car on a tender if you dont drive it alot... Even if you do, put it on a tender anyway.
Tail light tabs will crack and if ur luck theyll fall out when you open your engine latch next.
Window regulators can go more annoying than anything.
Door lock can get jammed in heat, punching door handle will get it to open.
Its a great easily tuneable engine built on a ahem budget frame.
I love my 996tt
In the wise words of my tuner...
" mike, you need to learn how to work on your car. "
My words to you, if you can change brembo calipers on this car, you can pretty much do anything that doesnt require dropping the engine.
Nothing on these cars is a big deal
unless the dme readout is 65555 range 1 and 65555 range 2 on a "bone stock never been raced" car with 22k miles.
The following users liked this post:
k9turbo (06-26-2020)
#22
Expect water pump to die if it hasnt been replaced recently
Cvboots
rms leaking
Left turbo wg actuator (straight) rod corroding and falling off.
wg seizing
Coolant tank
Leaky boost system
front differential leaking.
Everything can and will break.
the car gives you signs ie coolant dripping from driver side intercooler outlet usually means failing coolant tank.
Honking or kazoo noise is failing diverter valve.
Exhaust tips hanging more than 1 inch means sagging motor mounts or improper tip placement.
Coolant line thing is beat to death in several threads.
2nd gear pop out will make itself evident from high load high rpm pull and engine brake. You either have it or dont most have been fixed some (mine) more than once.
Some cars say "stock" but some have been modded and reverted to stock. Sort of hard to see what was modded.
Push down on the front of the car after a drive when the car is HOT if its bouncy, squeaky and clunky you need new struts, rears stay pretty stiff.
fuel pump can go spectacularly leaving you stranded or your car will just die in your garage. Wont throw any codes and will leave you wondering. Venturi lines can split from age and fuel line on pump assy can split.
You need to keep the car on a tender if you dont drive it alot... Even if you do, put it on a tender anyway.
Tail light tabs will crack and if ur luck theyll fall out when you open your engine latch next.
Window regulators can go more annoying than anything.
Door lock can get jammed in heat, punching door handle will get it to open.
Its a great easily tuneable engine built on a ahem budget frame.
I love my 996tt
In the wise words of my tuner...
" mike, you need to learn how to work on your car. "
My words to you, if you can change brembo calipers on this car, you can pretty much do anything that doesnt require dropping the engine.
Nothing on these cars is a big deal
unless the dme readout is 65555 range 1 and 65555 range 2 on a "bone stock never been raced" car with 22k miles.
Cvboots
rms leaking
Left turbo wg actuator (straight) rod corroding and falling off.
wg seizing
Coolant tank
Leaky boost system
front differential leaking.
Everything can and will break.
the car gives you signs ie coolant dripping from driver side intercooler outlet usually means failing coolant tank.
Honking or kazoo noise is failing diverter valve.
Exhaust tips hanging more than 1 inch means sagging motor mounts or improper tip placement.
Coolant line thing is beat to death in several threads.
2nd gear pop out will make itself evident from high load high rpm pull and engine brake. You either have it or dont most have been fixed some (mine) more than once.
Some cars say "stock" but some have been modded and reverted to stock. Sort of hard to see what was modded.
Push down on the front of the car after a drive when the car is HOT if its bouncy, squeaky and clunky you need new struts, rears stay pretty stiff.
fuel pump can go spectacularly leaving you stranded or your car will just die in your garage. Wont throw any codes and will leave you wondering. Venturi lines can split from age and fuel line on pump assy can split.
You need to keep the car on a tender if you dont drive it alot... Even if you do, put it on a tender anyway.
Tail light tabs will crack and if ur luck theyll fall out when you open your engine latch next.
Window regulators can go more annoying than anything.
Door lock can get jammed in heat, punching door handle will get it to open.
Its a great easily tuneable engine built on a ahem budget frame.
I love my 996tt
In the wise words of my tuner...
" mike, you need to learn how to work on your car. "
My words to you, if you can change brembo calipers on this car, you can pretty much do anything that doesnt require dropping the engine.
Nothing on these cars is a big deal
unless the dme readout is 65555 range 1 and 65555 range 2 on a "bone stock never been raced" car with 22k miles.
i'm sure glad i didn't buy your car and the OP is now looking for a low miles m3 lol
#23
Drifting
#24
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it is. I had a 4S, went to a turbo. Now I have 4 in the garage.
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#25
Rennlist Member
the way i tested it was to get the car into second gear and took it almost all the way to redline... then just let off the pedal and let it engine brake... watch and see if the shifter pops out... the other way you mentioned would be to engine brake down a hill in 2nd but if you can't find any hills on your test drive and engine brake from high revs should be sufficient and you will know quickly if it pops out...
#26
the way i tested it was to get the car into second gear and took it almost all the way to redline... then just let off the pedal and let it engine brake... watch and see if the shifter pops out... the other way you mentioned would be to engine brake down a hill in 2nd but if you can't find any hills on your test drive and engine brake from high revs should be sufficient and you will know quickly if it pops out...
#28
#29
-V
#30
I guess both should work though, I was just taught going up.