new to turbo. looking for a bid of advice
06-26-2020 | 12:57 PM
#31
Racer
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From: New York
06-26-2020 | 01:06 PM
#32
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Racer
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I was in the EXACT same boat. I fixed the IMS (Solution from LN), AOS, RMS and coolant tank almost as soon as I got my 04 C4S. Then the front end became noisy and the car felt broken.
Fixed the 2 front strut mounts and the car was like new again. But I couldn't get over the bore scoring nightmare. So I got an 04 TT X50 with PCCB. It's a cab / tip so none of those pesky 2nd gear issues for me.
Good luck with your search.
Fixed the 2 front strut mounts and the car was like new again. But I couldn't get over the bore scoring nightmare. So I got an 04 TT X50 with PCCB. It's a cab / tip so none of those pesky 2nd gear issues for me.
Good luck with your search.
06-26-2020 | 01:17 PM
#33
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i have fairly extensive experience with the issue in an 02 x50.
only 01 and 02 MY's were affected. so the 02 you're looking at has the potentially incorrect shim specs from the factory. mileage matters but very low mileage 996 02's exhibited this malady.
i have never once heard of any year after 02 become afflicted. i now have an 03. never any issue. the m96 g50 box was built with new specs for MY 03 and beyond.
only 01 and 02 MY's were affected. so the 02 you're looking at has the potentially incorrect shim specs from the factory. mileage matters but very low mileage 996 02's exhibited this malady.
i have never once heard of any year after 02 become afflicted. i now have an 03. never any issue. the m96 g50 box was built with new specs for MY 03 and beyond.
06-26-2020 | 01:19 PM
#34
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Racer
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Expect water pump to die if it hasnt been replaced recently
Cvboots
rms leaking
Left turbo wg actuator (straight) rod corroding and falling off.
wg seizing
Coolant tank
Leaky boost system
front differential leaking.
Everything can and will break.
the car gives you signs ie coolant dripping from driver side intercooler outlet usually means failing coolant tank.
Honking or kazoo noise is failing diverter valve.
Exhaust tips hanging more than 1 inch means sagging motor mounts or improper tip placement.
Coolant line thing is beat to death in several threads.
2nd gear pop out will make itself evident from high load high rpm pull and engine brake. You either have it or dont most have been fixed some (mine) more than once.
Some cars say "stock" but some have been modded and reverted to stock. Sort of hard to see what was modded.
Push down on the front of the car after a drive when the car is HOT if its bouncy, squeaky and clunky you need new struts, rears stay pretty stiff.
fuel pump can go spectacularly leaving you stranded or your car will just die in your garage. Wont throw any codes and will leave you wondering. Venturi lines can split from age and fuel line on pump assy can split.
You need to keep the car on a tender if you dont drive it alot... Even if you do, put it on a tender anyway.
Tail light tabs will crack and if ur luck theyll fall out when you open your engine latch next.
Window regulators can go more annoying than anything.
Door lock can get jammed in heat, punching door handle will get it to open.
Its a great easily tuneable engine built on a ahem budget frame.
I love my 996tt
In the wise words of my tuner...
" mike, you need to learn how to work on your car. "
My words to you, if you can change brembo calipers on this car, you can pretty much do anything that doesnt require dropping the engine.
Nothing on these cars is a big deal
unless the dme readout is 65555 range 1 and 65555 range 2 on a "bone stock never been raced" car with 22k miles.
Cvboots
rms leaking
Left turbo wg actuator (straight) rod corroding and falling off.
wg seizing
Coolant tank
Leaky boost system
front differential leaking.
Everything can and will break.
the car gives you signs ie coolant dripping from driver side intercooler outlet usually means failing coolant tank.
Honking or kazoo noise is failing diverter valve.
Exhaust tips hanging more than 1 inch means sagging motor mounts or improper tip placement.
Coolant line thing is beat to death in several threads.
2nd gear pop out will make itself evident from high load high rpm pull and engine brake. You either have it or dont most have been fixed some (mine) more than once.
Some cars say "stock" but some have been modded and reverted to stock. Sort of hard to see what was modded.
Push down on the front of the car after a drive when the car is HOT if its bouncy, squeaky and clunky you need new struts, rears stay pretty stiff.
fuel pump can go spectacularly leaving you stranded or your car will just die in your garage. Wont throw any codes and will leave you wondering. Venturi lines can split from age and fuel line on pump assy can split.
You need to keep the car on a tender if you dont drive it alot... Even if you do, put it on a tender anyway.
Tail light tabs will crack and if ur luck theyll fall out when you open your engine latch next.
Window regulators can go more annoying than anything.
Door lock can get jammed in heat, punching door handle will get it to open.
Its a great easily tuneable engine built on a ahem budget frame.
I love my 996tt
In the wise words of my tuner...
" mike, you need to learn how to work on your car. "
My words to you, if you can change brembo calipers on this car, you can pretty much do anything that doesnt require dropping the engine.
Nothing on these cars is a big deal
unless the dme readout is 65555 range 1 and 65555 range 2 on a "bone stock never been raced" car with 22k miles.
06-26-2020 | 01:22 PM
#35
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Racer
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06-26-2020 | 01:22 PM
#36
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Racer
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the way i tested it was to get the car into second gear and took it almost all the way to redline... then just let off the pedal and let it engine brake... watch and see if the shifter pops out... the other way you mentioned would be to engine brake down a hill in 2nd but if you can't find any hills on your test drive and engine brake from high revs should be sufficient and you will know quickly if it pops out...
06-26-2020 | 01:37 PM
#37
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06-26-2020 | 01:42 PM
#38
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Racer
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whoops that was a bit of a typo. I thought i read somebody say that low mileage cars are more prone to the pop out. Maybe i read it wrong
06-26-2020 | 02:17 PM
#39
Three Wheelin'
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i was shocked to find it did happen ONCE in second going uphill.
06-26-2020 | 02:22 PM
#40
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It seems to me that there is more load on the gear when off throttle going downhill.
It is suggested to select a lower gear when going downhill as it aids in braking (higher load on the gear.) The same recommendation isn't made for going uphill.
It is suggested to select a lower gear when going downhill as it aids in braking (higher load on the gear.) The same recommendation isn't made for going uphill.
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k9turbo (06-26-2020)
06-26-2020 | 02:23 PM
#41
Three Wheelin'
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what i posted ( or meant to explain ) was that a low mileage car 01 or 02 might not have had the damage done to the 1/2 gearset synchros, which could potentially leave the issue "lying in wait" to occur. it has to do with rounding of the dogring of the synchro. once rounded it doesn't engage properly, and worsens over time.
it all was caused by the tolerances of the gear stack placement in the gear stack. porsche changed the tolerances with updated shim spec tolerances in MY 03 and beyond. that's why you don't hear of it in MY other than 01 and 02's.
as to "repair costs" you asked about. when i had porsche repair it while i was covered under their under warranty, the reduced parts and labor was just north of 8K$. i say reduced because warrantied work is billed to PCNA at a lower rate than out of warranty work to the customer would be. this was over ten years ago. porsche had to rebuild it twice, because they were unaware of the updated shim guidance from porsche's factory. that was a real PITA and i had to actually do battle with PCNA and the dealership over their responsibility to remedy the issue as they tried to claim that I caused the damage..i did not, and i prevailed.
you could count on at least 5 to 8k$ to repair it with an indie today.
06-26-2020 | 02:37 PM
#42
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Racer
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what i posted ( or meant to explain ) was that a low mileage car 01 or 02 might not have had the damage done to the 1/2 gearset synchros, which could potentially leave the issue "lying in wait" to occur. it has to do with rounding of the dogring of the synchro. once rounded it doesn't engage properly, and worsens over time.
it all was caused by the tolerances of the gear stack placement in the gear stack. porsche changed the tolerances with updated shim spec tolerances in MY 03 and beyond. that's why you don't hear of it in MY other than 01 and 02's.
as to "repair costs" you asked about. when i had porsche repair it while i was covered under their under warranty, the reduced parts and labor was just north of 8K$. i say reduced because warrantied work is billed to PCNA at a lower rate than out of warranty work to the customer would be. this was over ten years ago. porsche had to rebuild it twice, because they were unaware of the updated shim guidance from porsche's factory. that was a real PITA and i had to actually do battle with PCNA and the dealership over their responsibility to remedy the issue as they tried to claim that I caused the damage..i did not, and i prevailed.
you could count on at least 5 to 8k$ to repair it with an indie today.
it all was caused by the tolerances of the gear stack placement in the gear stack. porsche changed the tolerances with updated shim spec tolerances in MY 03 and beyond. that's why you don't hear of it in MY other than 01 and 02's.
as to "repair costs" you asked about. when i had porsche repair it while i was covered under their under warranty, the reduced parts and labor was just north of 8K$. i say reduced because warrantied work is billed to PCNA at a lower rate than out of warranty work to the customer would be. this was over ten years ago. porsche had to rebuild it twice, because they were unaware of the updated shim guidance from porsche's factory. that was a real PITA and i had to actually do battle with PCNA and the dealership over their responsibility to remedy the issue as they tried to claim that I caused the damage..i did not, and i prevailed.
you could count on at least 5 to 8k$ to repair it with an indie today.
06-26-2020 | 02:46 PM
#43
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 1,666
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sure, some definitely go "unaffected" for reasons none of us could explain. since this hasn't happened to ALL 01/02's. only ones that have had the synchros "damaged" and it doesn't take much for the damage to occur. cpl mis-shifts would do it, i'm sure.
i rank the issue up there with coolant line failures. it doesn't happen to *all* 996 turbos either. the difference is coolant line failure can happen thru no fault of the driver. 2nd gear pop demands that one damage the synchros. i bought a lightly used lo miles '02 that had the damage already lurking unbeknownst to me at time of purchase.
for that reason - if i were a buyer armed with this info - i would avoid 01 or 02 996 turbos unless i knew the issue had been addressed. ( but that's just me ) g 50 transmissions are even more expensive to mess with than retrofitting coolant lines are.
06-26-2020 | 03:44 PM
#44
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Buy the best car available in the spec you desire, never mind what year it is.
06-26-2020 | 03:50 PM
#45
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Racer
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I'm more hesitant on the 01-02s now. It's too bad they have that problem. I've found an 02 that really calls to me and has the spec i want.... decisions decisions