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Remove the tune, fix the turbos, and whatever else is wrong, because if the turbos are in that bad of condition surely other things are damaged/neglected as well, then start over.
Remove the tune, fix the turbos, and whatever else is wrong, because if the turbos are in that bad of condition surely other things are damaged/neglected as well, then start over.
And have your oil analyzed for particles... actually, change your oil too.
Something isn't adding up here, too much info is missing. Where are you located, what kind of shop is doing the tuning? You're either clueless about these cars or significantly misunderstood something that was told to you. Your dyno graph would look nothing like that of your car had the issues you claim. And why are you only posting about it half a year later?
I'd like to see some pictures of your turbochargers.. Cracks and holes in the hot housings or ??
Have you asked your tuner for datalogs? Boost, Lambda, timing?
If you are fitting new turbochargers (take pictures of the new ones and compare to your old ones)
Flash the ECU back to stock and get some baseline datalogs. Pressure test, your intake system and make sure your fuel system is working correctly ( Do you have a failing fuel pump assy>>burst rubber or nylon hose?)
hmch996t, I don't think it will be possible for anyone to tell you if your car is safe to drive based on your description of the issue. It would be best to get a professional opinion based on a hands-on inspection of the car. With data logs, pictures and other specifics, some may be able to point out red flags that put your car at risk, but everything else you get online would be pretty much speculation.
You say the dyno was done with "one busted turbo and one with a hole in the casing" and that both turbos are "gone." Your car would not make 428hp and 650Nm of torque, at the wheels, if you had two bad turbochargers. That's like saying "both wings fell off my airplane and now I can't fly it any higher than 40,000 feet." I'm not trying to sound like a wise guy at all, but rather trying to give an analogy that helps explain why people are confused by your posts and questioning them.
Why do you think both turbos are bad? Any chance you are seeing cosmetic damage and/or the turbos aren't as "gone" as you think? Does your car "feel" like it has the power shown on that dyno chart? Not all tuners are honest unfortunately. Either your turbos are actually doing a pretty good job OR you are not making the power on that chart.
The bottom line is that no one can tell you if the car is safe to drive, or if the tune is too aggressive, without the kind of information others have suggested above. "Stage 1" doesn't really mean anything. Stage 1 might be super mild from one tuner, yet be pretty aggressive from another tuner. That's why people are asking who did the tune and/or for logs, so they can help give you more informed opinions on the safety of your set up. Again, however, the best thing to do would be to get a professional opinion from a trust mechanic/tuner based on an in-person inspection.
I purchased my car I thought everything was fine with the vehicle it drove fine no obvious issues so I proceeded to get the car remapped to a stage 1 (why would I do this if I knew the turbos where faulty?)
After I had the car remapped i was told by the tuner the car had a boost leak that was the reason it wasnt making the horse power it should make.
I have taken the car to a mechanic to get the boost leak fixed and he told me that one of my turbos had a hole in the casing of the turbo due to corrosion and the other turbos internal shaft had collapsed
These cars are 20 years or close to 20 years old.. In certain areas of the US and in many parts of the UK corrosion eats the turbocharger bearing housings, flange between the bearing housing and turbine housing. The wastegate actuators also get eaten.
The wastegate rods break due to corrosion. I have built the K16 turbochargers for over 20 years (993TT).. I have haven't heard the phrase "internal shaft collapsed" Translation??
Did you have a turbocharger bearing failure? The turbine wheel and or compressor wheel is rubbing the housings? Blade tips are missing? Turbine side and or compressor side? Any FOD damage?
If you take the time to read post on this "forum" you will see common threads pertaining to boost leaks and running issues.
Did you have a pre purchase inspection on your car?
Again, pictures and datalogs would help this "forum" community.
And by the way Welcome..
Since you are not familiar with these cars, I suspect some of the terms you heard are being mixed up a bit when posted here. If I had to guess -- a wild guess mind you -- I'd say that there is some corrosion or early/light cracking on one of the turbos, which you saw. That corrosion/cracking may be the source of the boost leak your tuner reported. It's also possible your tuner found different boost leaks, or was just making excuses because his tune wasn't making the power he promised. The "internal shaft collapse" -- again a guess -- might be the internal wastegate actuator shaft that broke due to corrosion (rather than the center shaft that spins). If so, then the turbos may well be boosting (one of them may be over-boosting) and making the power you are seeing. If one of the turbos does have a broken wastegate actuator rod and the tuner didn't find it, that would make me wonder a bit more about his "boost leak" explanation. If he was just getting paid to install pre-programmed maps that normally make X on the dyno, he may have been just tossing out a probable reason your power was down. Did he say where the leak was coming from and/or how he concluded there was a leak?
I'd drive the car without boosting and have someone you can trust tell you what's going on. If my guess is right, you need to get it fixed to be safe. If my guess is wrong, you need to find out what's going on to be sure you're safe. Make sense?
06-12-2020, 11:23 PM
