k9turbo

someone told me a few months back, my mechanically sound and well maintained ( dirty always but always runs perfect ) '03 168k mile car is worth 20k wholesale.

they can bury me in it for that lol

pancing

heh cant even buy a new base midsize sedan for that.

HDA

I think at the same time you can say that later years were heavier?

i don’t think there is a reason to discriminate any year of the 996TT, although the internet likes to do that...

the 996TT was perfect from the start! (Beside the shifter - that has been crap throughout production!)

k9turbo

i would generally agree excepting the gear stack shimming miscalculation re 2nd gear pop that carlo mentioned upthread. not addressed until late 02/03. that was a real snafu on the early MT cars.

trust me on that one lol.

pancing

I thought most of the 996tt that had it got it fixed?

k9turbo

i have no idea what "most of" means lol. i mean i wouldn't live with it any longer than necessary.. so i imagine some rebuilt their box. some used the detent or ball bearing fix. i dunno..

but my '02 had it and the dealership had to r&r it twice! while under warranty ( since they re-shimmed the first time to the OLD specs! ) and my 03 hasn't had any g'box issues at all. except for bearings refreshing at 100k miles.

pancing

Ah i guess im lucky to have a car that had the trans swapped.

k9turbo

what year is it? and do you know why it was swapped out? speaking of which.. i just stumbled across a porsche trans rebuilder that sells rebuilt g50's for like 5k. that a huge option for someone wanting an oem swap. since even a g'box refresh will run near to that.

pancing

01 and the paperwork says warranty work performed on drive train. Cust states first and second gear extremely notchy something along those lines. 2 years later it went to another dealership stating warranty work for known issue with gear selector. I hope i never have to bug you for his number but if i do ill have you down in my handy dandy notebook. Also very wierd that front 2 wheel bearings got replaced twice in a year under warranty. Whoever had this car had it in for a ton of warranty work.

kamlung

i think that's a tip car... if it matters

back2porsche

Picked up an ‘02 lapis blue 52k kms/30k mi in toronto late feb for C$60k - US$42k. Came with light seasoning added like rss stage 2 susp, wheel spacers, h&r springs, gt2 brake conversion /fresh stoptec brakes, rare techart chrome rollbar, pinned lines and fresh clutch at 24k mi., fabspeed, some tasteful carbon on ext, fresh paint correction - ceramic before storage last winter. Full ppi pass including leakdown and compression. Found/replaced coil packs and thru on a set fresh of tires. Saw same higher mileage dealer cars same $ range sitting for months.

limited market for this car and i was it. My hair stood up on the phone the PO’s description. Imo most buyers walk from “track cars.” Been tracking for many years. “Most - average” hpde driver’s rarely take it over the limit of mechanical grip limits. When you do it all goes bad the fast. On track its smooth is fast. Again imo, track cars are driven faster (no problem) but smoother (less wear) than same speed on street.

______________________

Terry
IMF Level 2 HPDE Instructor
Ottawa, Canada

blazen244

You might be on to something but looks good

Dingo

Very nice!

Les Agboh

I have bin thinking about selling my 01
kw suspension
Tune
Welded Pipes
Tubi exhaust
stage 2 clutch
diverter and upgraded tubing
Passport radar built into the dash
and more
Rocket ship and a great start for the track
Send me a messege if your interested
59k miles
$44500
1 owner no accidents

pfbz

My opinions, surely they are different than others:
.

• Model year makes no significant difference.
• X50 isn't worth extra unless you are buying a 100% stock collector car that will never be modified.
• Service records are overblown... These cars are old enough that many or most of them have been separated from their records, and they are often still in great condition. Likewise, a pile of service records over 20 years really doesn't mean crap as to the current condition.
• Mileage, within range, is less important than condition.
• Fully sorted cars are worth a premium, but don't expect a PPI to get you even close to really knowing if your car is fully sorted.
• There have been so many generations of mods to these cars, be careful about buying a car that was modified in a way that simply wouldn't be done today. eg: a hard-modified ECU tune instead of a software loaded tune, or ancient "upgraded" turbos, or useless "upgraded" airbox, or worn out and flimsy "upgraded" suspensions.
• If you know which mods and shops are quality, yes, recent/modern mods can have value, particularly if you are looking for a track car.
• "front diff disconnected" is a bit of a flag, unless you are sure you want to do a RWD conversion. And if so, you should finish the job properly with a LSD diff, stub axles up front, and removing the weight of the diff. If you want to go back to AWD, do you have all the parts? Is the center diff burned out, maybe why they disconnected the front diff?
• The more you personally learn about these cars, and the more of them that you personally drive, the better you will be at spotting the cherry.
• Price comparisons to tiptronic cars and cabriolets are not relevant. Six speed coupes have their own pricing spectrum and are typically the most sought after.

As for the car you mentioned, $35K isn't going to buy that car unless the seller doesn't know what it is worth... I see decent, higher mile cars in the low $40's, decent mid mile cars in the mid $40's, fully sorted cars with mileage and top quality mods in the $50's.

Some super low mile $60K asking price car (that still probably has dried out seals and shocks, boost leaks, etc) isn't really what you want if you are looking for a track car.