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I also prefer changing oil cold on all cars that I own. There are always a few drops here or there, but no catastrophic spillage. I use a large piece of cardboard under the area, and oil catch jug waiting for oil, fast hands with the plug.
I have used the suction method from above on other cars...it's so easy it feels like cheating. On my V10 Audi the filter is up top so the oil change is literally mess free and so easy...I could do it in a suit. On cars where the filter is located below, I drain from below.
Porsche made an IMS bearing... they're not all-knowing.
They also make a good chunk of change doing service work... they'd be fools to tell people they couldn't drive their cars to the dealership for service.
I change mine on a two post lift with a 20 gallon Portable Oil Lift Drain, but still get some splatter. I just put a piece of cardboard under the drain.
.. they'd be fools to tell people they couldn't drive their cars to the dealership for service.
This really has nothing to do with it.
Your are down in southern Florida. If your car is parked out in the sun or in a hot garage the oil is plenty warm enough to change. Us folks at the northern end of the country do really need to warn it up otherwise the condensation in the crank case can trap some the impurities we are trying to flush out of there.
Your are down in southern Florida. If your car is parked out in the sun or in a hot garage the oil is plenty warm enough to change. Us folks at the northern end of the country do really need to warn it up otherwise the condensation in the crank case can trap some the impurities we are trying to flush out of there.
Agree. When I say "cold" the oil is 70F or warmer. I used to live in MN and that brown oil condensate sludge is nasty in the winter.
Your are down in southern Florida. If your car is parked out in the sun or in a hot garage the oil is plenty warm enough to change. Us folks at the northern end of the country do really need to warn it up otherwise the condensation in the crank case can trap some the impurities we are trying to flush out of there.
Very true... sometimes I forget about winter. It was in the 60's today... I almost put on a jacket. Brrrr.
1. Use a BIG drain pan. I love using a Rubbermade Roughneck 10 gallon tote. about 24" x 16" x 8". And it has a tight fitting lid so I can leave the oil in it until I get a chance to transfer it into jugs for recycle, or just bring the whole tote to the auto parts place for dumping in their tank... And there only $8 at home depot.
Those purpose-built oil drain pans with a sort of funnel built into the top are a freaking disaster with 6+ quarts of hot oil shooting out.
2. Remove the oil fill cap before draining! If your not doing this, try it... Instead of the oil coming out glug-glug-glug and splashing all over the place, you;'ll get a smooth laminar flow.
3. Hell no to a moving blanket, I want any spills to go on my epoxy concrete floor where they are easy to clean up.
4. As mentioned, just let the oil plug drop in the pan and fish it out. with the super big oil pan, the oil won't be all that deep.
5. Gloves on hands and a roll of shop towels nearby for the tiny splashes and overflow....
6. If you're doing frequent changes, don't bother with the turbo drains except maybe every third or fourth oil change. Very minimal amount of oil...
If you try to use something like this, I can pretty much guarantee you will regret it!
I cut about a 6 or 7 inch hole in the bottom of a plastic 5 gallon pail and then place the pail upside down into the oil drain pan container. Then I position it so the hole that was cut in the bottom of the pail is centred with the reservoir drain plug and a few inches below it. The oil splashes on the inside of the bucket instead of all over the garage floor. Then I clean up the bucket with paper towels and put it away for next time. I always change oil on a warm engine but let it cool just enough so I am not burning my hands on anything.