GT2 conversion
#1
GT2 conversion
Hi, Haven't been here for years. I'm doing some major modifications on my 996 Twin Turbo. I will convert it to 2 wheel drive. I need a LSD anyone have suggestions for a GT2 diff, and approximate price for my car has 600 wheel hp Turbo.?
Last edited by Always911; 09-26-2019 at 07:31 PM.
#2
1158073-rwd-conversion-and-abs-pump.html
971955-completing-rwd-conversion-to-gt3-suspension.html
1109304-wavetrac-install-question.html
944714-rwd-conversion-the-track.html
1026670-rwd-conversion-options-with-and-without-front-axle-diff-removal.html
1018101-rwd-conversion-using-outer-cv-axle-stubs.html
971955-completing-rwd-conversion-to-gt3-suspension.html
1109304-wavetrac-install-question.html
944714-rwd-conversion-the-track.html
1026670-rwd-conversion-options-with-and-without-front-axle-diff-removal.html
1018101-rwd-conversion-using-outer-cv-axle-stubs.html
#4
Seems like there are a few 'levels' of doing this, not necessarily sequentially. I'm not an expert, but this is my perspective...
Stage 1:
Pull the belly covers, remove cardan shaft. You are now RWD. Cost = $0.
+Get to sample RWD behavior without investment.
+Needed for most dyno polls
Stage 2:
In addition, convert or replace front axle stubs, remove front diff: $0 if you convert your own axle stubs, $? if you buy ready-to-use rwd axle stubs.
+Reduced front drag and weight.
Stage 3A:
Install wavetrac rear diff, +$1,200 plus labor, not an easy diy?
+Rear traction
-Not as effective as the Guard?
Stage 3B:
Install Guard rear diff +?? plus labor
+Rear traction
+Top dog diff
-More dollars
Stage 1:
Pull the belly covers, remove cardan shaft. You are now RWD. Cost = $0.
+Get to sample RWD behavior without investment.
+Needed for most dyno polls
Stage 2:
In addition, convert or replace front axle stubs, remove front diff: $0 if you convert your own axle stubs, $? if you buy ready-to-use rwd axle stubs.
+Reduced front drag and weight.
Stage 3A:
Install wavetrac rear diff, +$1,200 plus labor, not an easy diy?
+Rear traction
-Not as effective as the Guard?
Stage 3B:
Install Guard rear diff +?? plus labor
+Rear traction
+Top dog diff
-More dollars
#5
Another option is to secure a used LSD from a GT3 or GT2 (996 or 997) rebuild the clutch pack ala Porsche Motorsport plates and disk/ramps and for most it's a great inexpensive alternative. BTW, I have built up 993TT LSD cores in the past and have one in one of my cars (haven't broke it yet). Rarely do we see threads for 996GT2/Turbo breaking the LSD flanges/casing
#6
Seems like there are a few 'levels' of doing this, not necessarily sequentially. I'm not an expert, but this is my perspective...
Stage 1:
Pull the belly covers, remove cardan shaft. You are now RWD. Cost = $0.
+Get to sample RWD behavior without investment.
+Needed for most dyno polls
Stage 2:
In addition, convert or replace front axle stubs, remove front diff: $0 if you convert your own axle stubs, $? if you buy ready-to-use rwd axle stubs.
+Reduced front drag and weight.
Stage 3A:
Install wavetrac rear diff, +$1,200 plus labor, not an easy diy?
+Rear traction
-Not as effective as the Guard?
Stage 3B:
Install Guard rear diff +?? plus labor
+Rear traction
+Top dog diff
-More dollars
Stage 1:
Pull the belly covers, remove cardan shaft. You are now RWD. Cost = $0.
+Get to sample RWD behavior without investment.
+Needed for most dyno polls
Stage 2:
In addition, convert or replace front axle stubs, remove front diff: $0 if you convert your own axle stubs, $? if you buy ready-to-use rwd axle stubs.
+Reduced front drag and weight.
Stage 3A:
Install wavetrac rear diff, +$1,200 plus labor, not an easy diy?
+Rear traction
-Not as effective as the Guard?
Stage 3B:
Install Guard rear diff +?? plus labor
+Rear traction
+Top dog diff
-More dollars
There are two levels of Guard LSDs. The GT3 Club and the GT2 Pro. They have the same guts but the cases are different. The GT3 Club has a billet steel case and is good for 600hp when operated in a track/race environment. It is significantly stronger than the factory LSD. The GT2 Pro is Guard's strongest offering as it uses a Chromoly steel case. It is good for 1000hp+. With that said, I have cracked a Guard GT3 Club case after about 100 hard track hours but that's not surprising as I have also cracked numerous rear hubs and rear gearbox output flanges. You can say I'm pretty hard on equipment. I'm currently using the Guard GT2 Pro. It has been absolutely flawless. No matter what, the GT3 Club is sufficient for 90% of applications. It is a fantastic LSD, maintenance free and would likely last the life of the car in a street/track application. For street use and light track work the factory LSD will suffice but I would not run it if you are going to track a high hp car with a significant amount of aggression.. If in doubt, get the GT3 Club or better yet the GT2 Pro..
Last edited by powdrhound; 09-27-2019 at 05:27 PM.