Greetings,

I am about to begin the process of converting my 996TT to RWD. After doing much research it looks pretty straight forward -remove everything from the transmission forward, an reinstall the important structural items. Replace front stub axles and install an LSD in the rear!

I want to use the existing axle stubs by disassembling the front outer CV joints, but I haven't been able to find much on that subject. I don't want to destroy these components and the only thread I have found on the subject had a member using a dremel tool to free the internal bearings of the outer CV from the drive shaft -yikes! If that is the case I'll simply spend the $1000 to buy new axle stubs.

I'm thinking that there must be a trick to rotate the outer CV in a way that the bearings will come out individually. I'm hoping someone can share some knowledge on this topic.

Thx!

 

Yes there's a small snap ring on a groove at the end of the axle stub. You can rotate the axle and lift this clip slightly off the groove and everything will then come apart.

 

Awesome, thx! I'll post some pics on this for future reference.

 

Why not just buy the oem axel stubs? They're only 250 or so for a set.

 

Would love to, but good luck finding a set. Dealership will only sell the complete assembly and finding used is a crap shoot. Send link if you know of a pair pls!

 

These folks sell an entire kit for about $1100.

http://rennkit.com/product-info/phenix-engineering/

 

I've got a pair of OE stubs for $375 shipped.
PM me if you want them.

 

https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuse...oxster-SPINDLE

 

08 fits?

 

From my understanding they do. I have a set at work on my box. If the weather is good tomorrow I'll test fit one on my roller.

 

I bought a set of axle deletes from Reid Performance for $640 shipped. (they list for $800 on the site but they'll do a 20% discount for 6speed members) They are 3lbs lighter per side vs the OEM axle stubs and I didn't have to hack up my stock axles to convert to RWD.

 

If you're comfortable spending a ton of money then do it. REID performance makes those stubs and machines off the extra meat not needed so that's why they are a little lighter.

But don't listen to those who say you need to "hack" apart your axles. It takes some work for sure, but it's relatively easy to separate the hubs from axles without damage at all. And they go right back together when you want.

 

Are you planning to track the car?
Do it with GT3 stubs and uprights and then you have an excuse to buy new shocks and keep all the stock stuff intact should you sell it.

While you have the upright freed from the axles you may want to refresh any mounts, bushings or radiators/hoses as they're a lot nicer to do with everything dropped.

 

Won't work. Totally different spindles... not interchangeable. You have to use the boxster upright to use those. GT2 spindles are the same as the boxster ones but they are longer as they are designed for a wider bearing that is used in the GT2/3 upright.

 

Yes I will be tracking the car. I've got a set of Bilstein B8 Struts in the car currently and sport pads, but after having an LSD installed that is as far as I will take it.