calandri

Hi all,

I bought a front set of ATE rotors and textar pads, they lasted 3K km until front started to shake.
I bought a front set of ATE rotors and textar pads, they lasted 6 months, 1 or 2K km until front started to shake slgithly again!

my mechanic says that I abuse of the breakes (driving style) it never happened to me before in other cars... not a tunned turbo though. I do quite some high speed in highways and like to go fast...

I was wondering whether a set of OE rotors and pads or another aftermaket combo would help? In terms of pads or discs? Brembo better than ATE?

No planning to go big or girodisc since I do not track.

thanks for the help!

"02996ttx50

i use the ate without issues. my second set on this car. also one set on an older 96t. never one issue.

i DO hate textar pads, but thats another story.

Carlo_Carrera

The issue is with the pads, not the rotors. Try a different brand of pads with the ATE rotors.

Also did you "bed" the pads in properly before you drove?

HenryPcar

Sometimes it might not be warped rotors, but rather caused by uneven deposit of pad material on the surface of the rotor. That is why the pad manufacturers have a procedure on how to break in the pads. It has to deposit an even coating by a heating process on the rotors. Do a Google on brake pad break-ins.

mffarrell

Oak

most likely pad deposition with only 3k, try changing to orange or yellow padgids pads

"02996ttx50

..which begs the related question. what pads for a street car are not prone to squeal? like textar or mintex do. while a few really hard stops will usually mitigate/silence the issue. it will return. annoying.

911mhawk

Have you tried an Italian tune up on the brakes?

calandri

which brand?

calandri

why? to be honest my brakes squeal a lot now when stopping on traffic lights, I am embarrassed.

calandri

I bed in the brakes properly driving 50kmh and stopping slowly and driving carefully the first 200km. I did it because I warped previous setup.

Normally I put new pads and new discs at the same time . That is correct right? some rally forums peopled say that you have to use old pads on a new disc...

what about Porsche OEM pads?

Thanks a lot,

993GT

almost guaranteed to be pad deposits, if you are doing a lot of heavy braking, don't stop and hold the brakes on..this leaves a hot pad mark

Carlo_Carrera

For street driving I have had very good luck with these inexpensive pads. Good stopping power, no vibration, no squeal, almost no dust.

Front: CENTRIC 10209160 C-TEK Metallic
Rear: CENTRIC 10209170 C-TEK Metallic


For track driving I go with PFC brand pads. Great stopping power, but lots of squealing and lots of dust.

Third-Reef

Your break in procedure of light use is not the recomended way . You need to get them hot and transfer material. There is a procedure on here somewhere, basically 3 panic stops ( but not actually stopping) in a row from about 80 mph then drive for 10 min without using the brakes to cool down. I think it is referred to as bedding.

napoleon1981

+1.

I replaced my front rotors and had a run out of 4/1000 of an inch on the passenger side. Interestingly both new discs had a runout of 4/1000 of an inch on that side, while being within spec on the drivers side. The original porsche disc had <1/1000 runout on the passenger side. I believe porsche grinds the discs in the factory on the car. I cant help but think that I had a bend hub from the get go. I ended up replacing the hub and everything checked out fine after. Never any issues after replacing with ATE disks.

If the runout is too high, (typically more than 2/1000) you will get what you describe.