V1 hardwired
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V1 hardwired
So I just got back from my buddy's where we, through trial and errors, finally hardwired the V1 by tapping the always hot power source of the dome light using the V1 hardwire kit.
It is not without um, interesting oops along the way, so I am here to share with you all my mistakes for all who might want to attempt this.
Requirement:
1. Sunroof
2. 996TT (just kidding )
3. Owners manual page 122 for accessing the sunroof control panel.
4. V1 hardwire kit, get the shorter power cord, we ened up having to zip tie most of the wire and tuck it to the left side crevece accessble when the sunroof control panel is down.
Our oops
We used the multi meter and "determined" that the #3 and #4 wires for the sunroof control power connector was hot and ground. But when we connected the V1 and turn on the V1 power, the sunroof automatically opened and closed. This in turn disabled my one touch close sunroof operation, hopefully it's just a fuse, since sunroof still closes, just not one touch. If anyone knows of the solution to this dead one touch close feature, please do share.
So we had to electrical tape the exposed #3 and #4 wires for the sunroof control power connector, and try the dome light power.
Dome light power connector turned out to be the ticket.
Using the multi meter, we figured out the hot and ground for the dome light power connector, and was able to successfully connect the V1 hardwire kit and power the V1.
The V1 hardwire kit connector (the one with the main unit and auxilary jacks for the V1 power cable-which goes to main) can be tucked into the right side crevece accessible when the sunroof control panel is down (see 4 above).
BE SURE to always turn your V1 off when you turn off the car, since the dome light connector always has power.
Now we go for the V1 sensitivity testing. I had my buddy mount his V1 on the dash, and I mounted my hardwired unit to the left of the rear view mirror (barely without touching the mirror).
First test the sensitivity was off, then I moved the V1 unit to right below the tint line, and the reception was the better than the unit on the dash (used to be worse when it was mounted above the tint line).
Then we tried my buddy's 323Ci with his V1 mounted also to the right of the rearview mirror. I must say, I think that our windshield must have some kind of coating, because the 323Ci was able to pick up signals a good second or two before the 996TT, anyone know if the 996TT windshield is indded coated?
It is not without um, interesting oops along the way, so I am here to share with you all my mistakes for all who might want to attempt this.
Requirement:
1. Sunroof
2. 996TT (just kidding )
3. Owners manual page 122 for accessing the sunroof control panel.
4. V1 hardwire kit, get the shorter power cord, we ened up having to zip tie most of the wire and tuck it to the left side crevece accessble when the sunroof control panel is down.
Our oops
We used the multi meter and "determined" that the #3 and #4 wires for the sunroof control power connector was hot and ground. But when we connected the V1 and turn on the V1 power, the sunroof automatically opened and closed. This in turn disabled my one touch close sunroof operation, hopefully it's just a fuse, since sunroof still closes, just not one touch. If anyone knows of the solution to this dead one touch close feature, please do share.
So we had to electrical tape the exposed #3 and #4 wires for the sunroof control power connector, and try the dome light power.
Dome light power connector turned out to be the ticket.
Using the multi meter, we figured out the hot and ground for the dome light power connector, and was able to successfully connect the V1 hardwire kit and power the V1.
The V1 hardwire kit connector (the one with the main unit and auxilary jacks for the V1 power cable-which goes to main) can be tucked into the right side crevece accessible when the sunroof control panel is down (see 4 above).
BE SURE to always turn your V1 off when you turn off the car, since the dome light connector always has power.
Now we go for the V1 sensitivity testing. I had my buddy mount his V1 on the dash, and I mounted my hardwired unit to the left of the rear view mirror (barely without touching the mirror).
First test the sensitivity was off, then I moved the V1 unit to right below the tint line, and the reception was the better than the unit on the dash (used to be worse when it was mounted above the tint line).
Then we tried my buddy's 323Ci with his V1 mounted also to the right of the rearview mirror. I must say, I think that our windshield must have some kind of coating, because the 323Ci was able to pick up signals a good second or two before the 996TT, anyone know if the 996TT windshield is indded coated?
#2
Re: V1 hardwired
Originally posted by stuka
...4. V1 hardwire kit, get the shorter power cord, we ened up having to zip tie most of the wire and tuck it to the left side crevece accessble when the sunroof control panel is down....
...4. V1 hardwire kit, get the shorter power cord, we ened up having to zip tie most of the wire and tuck it to the left side crevece accessble when the sunroof control panel is down....
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V-1 hardwire
There is an easier way to hardwire the V-1. It just takes more wire to reach the area. Run the power wire around the LH windshield molding and down the side. Tuck the wire in the LH dash seam and run the wire under the dash to the forward console. Gently pull off the LH side console panels. One is carpeted and the other is leather or vinyl. Inside the console, you will find a plug normally used for the cell phone. In that plug and wire assembly, you will find a green/black wire. That is the "switched" wire you need for the V-1. Strip about .75" off the wire, fold it double and insert it into the plug that corresponds with the green/black wire. Wrap tape around the entire plug to hold the wire in place, find a suitable ground and replace the panels.
Now you do not have to turn off the V-1 every time you shut off the ignition.
Took me less than 30 minutes to install.
Now you do not have to turn off the V-1 every time you shut off the ignition.
Took me less than 30 minutes to install.
#4
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Stuka,
You may want to access the switched wire. My original installation also required me to remember to turn off the V1. I found it will drain the battery in about 3 days if you don't drive the car after forgetting to turn it off. My install was done by the dealer who rewired at no additional cost (original installation cost with steering collumn remote was $100) AS
You may want to access the switched wire. My original installation also required me to remember to turn off the V1. I found it will drain the battery in about 3 days if you don't drive the car after forgetting to turn it off. My install was done by the dealer who rewired at no additional cost (original installation cost with steering collumn remote was $100) AS
#6
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NC Bob has it right.......this is pretty much the same procedure going back to the 97 Box (I see he has a 986).
Anyway, you definately want 'ignition power'....That Val should come on ev time you turn the key......otherwise eventually you'll be screwed.
There was an old 986 link I followed back when (Berkley Johnston's site)......it has worked on 2 subsequent cars...
Here ya go.
http://www.industryfigure.com/berkel...he/boxster.htm
Anyway, you definately want 'ignition power'....That Val should come on ev time you turn the key......otherwise eventually you'll be screwed.
There was an old 986 link I followed back when (Berkley Johnston's site)......it has worked on 2 subsequent cars...
Here ya go.
http://www.industryfigure.com/berkel...he/boxster.htm
Last edited by GreggT; 01-07-2004 at 12:43 PM.
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The shortest route is to tap into the power for the LED behind the mirror.
Takes about 10 minutes total -- and it's switched so you don't have to worry about turning the unit on and off.
Takes about 10 minutes total -- and it's switched so you don't have to worry about turning the unit on and off.