Newbie-Advice needed asap on 2004 996TT
08-12-2017, 05:10 PM
#106
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Can someone explain the coolant line issue where the lines have to be pinned and what that means & entails?
Seen it mentioned a few times so far but have not dug into what the issue is yet. I might need to know this before I buy one but eventually I will have time to do as much research as possible. I'm having to do my research in spurts between work and other things.
Seen it mentioned a few times so far but have not dug into what the issue is yet. I might need to know this before I buy one but eventually I will have time to do as much research as possible. I'm having to do my research in spurts between work and other things.
Simplistic Overview:
The fittings for the coolant lines on the Mezger turbo engines are
'bonded' into the engine. It is supposed to be a permanent bond, and for many cars it is...
On some engines, particularly tracked cars, the adhesive fails and the fitting and attached coolant line comes free, spraying coolant all over the track and everywhere else. It doesn't necessarily harm anything else assuming you shut it down quickly and don't wreck, or cause someone else to wreck, because of the slippery coolant all over the road.
The fittings inquestion are usually addressed in one of these ways:
For the most part, it involves removing the engine, though some have had success pining the most or all of the coolant lines without removing the engine.
Though you'll hear about it tons on the forum, on 90% of the 996TT's out there , the coolant pipes have never been a problem, never been addressed, and the owners will have not a clue what you are talking about.
Here's an example of a pinned coolant pipe:
Example of welded pipes:
The fittings for the coolant lines on the Mezger turbo engines are
'bonded' into the engine. It is supposed to be a permanent bond, and for many cars it is...
On some engines, particularly tracked cars, the adhesive fails and the fitting and attached coolant line comes free, spraying coolant all over the track and everywhere else. It doesn't necessarily harm anything else assuming you shut it down quickly and don't wreck, or cause someone else to wreck, because of the slippery coolant all over the road.
The fittings inquestion are usually addressed in one of these ways:
- Ignore them, they might never fail (90%+ of 996TT's out there?)
- Re-bond the coolant pipes after failure (Porsche did this on early failures, I believe it can be done *engine in*)
- Weld the coolant pipes.
- 'Pin' the coolant pipes, which means drilling/tapping a small hole in the outer portion and installing a set screw.
For the most part, it involves removing the engine, though some have had success pining the most or all of the coolant lines without removing the engine.
Though you'll hear about it tons on the forum, on 90% of the 996TT's out there , the coolant pipes have never been a problem, never been addressed, and the owners will have not a clue what you are talking about.
Here's an example of a pinned coolant pipe:
Example of welded pipes:
The only thing I would add is IMHO would not bother pinning nor welding the tubes unless the car is going to driven on track.
08-13-2017, 08:27 PM
#107
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I drove two 996TT's yesterday. One slightly modded 2001 and one stock X-50. Both were fun to drive and fast (I didn't beat on it or rev out completely).
Still going to keep looking. Waiting to hear about one I really want (another X50) by Wed. night. Praying the other guy bows out but he has first dibs.
Part of me is still considering the 03 C4S with only 23k miles. (I'd have the IMS/RMS done immediately) and saving $20,000!! I just don't know.
Still going to keep looking. Waiting to hear about one I really want (another X50) by Wed. night. Praying the other guy bows out but he has first dibs.
Part of me is still considering the 03 C4S with only 23k miles. (I'd have the IMS/RMS done immediately) and saving $20,000!! I just don't know.
08-13-2017, 09:02 PM
#108
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Personally, I wouldn't even sweat the IMS bearing upon purchase. Change it every time the tranny is off for a clutch or anything else, change the oil frequently and use the right oil, and if you can still find one, buy a Guardian Jr magnetic chip detector to give you early warning (pre-damage) of a failing IMS bearing.
Here's my old 996 C2 I had a few years ago, pre Turbo days. Many great miles and an absolute blast to drive. If you decide you love 996's and want the best version, sell it and buy a Turbo down the road.... The only downside to this strategy is that Turbo's might keep going up in price while non-Turbo 996's will definitely keep going down.
08-13-2017, 10:11 PM
#109
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Nothing wrong with that... the M96 engine is a bit unloved, but a clean 996 non-Turbo can be one hell of a car at a bargain price, and honestly the failure rate is pretty low.
Personally, I wouldn't even sweat the IMS bearing upon purchase. Change it every time the tranny is off for a clutch or anything else, change the oil frequently and use the right oil, and if you can still find one, buy a Guardian Jr magnetic chip detector to give you early warning (pre-damage) of a failing IMS bearing.
Here's my old 996 C2 I had a few years ago, pre Turbo days. Many great miles and an absolute blast to drive. If you decide you love 996's and want the best version, sell it and buy a Turbo down the road.... The only downside to this strategy is that Turbo's might keep going up in price while non-Turbo 996's will definitely keep going down.
Personally, I wouldn't even sweat the IMS bearing upon purchase. Change it every time the tranny is off for a clutch or anything else, change the oil frequently and use the right oil, and if you can still find one, buy a Guardian Jr magnetic chip detector to give you early warning (pre-damage) of a failing IMS bearing.
Here's my old 996 C2 I had a few years ago, pre Turbo days. Many great miles and an absolute blast to drive. If you decide you love 996's and want the best version, sell it and buy a Turbo down the road.... The only downside to this strategy is that Turbo's might keep going up in price while non-Turbo 996's will definitely keep going down.
Very Nice Car!!
Yeah, I could just drive it and not worry until it needed a clutch. I'm just trying to keep from taxing the wallet anymore than I have to, but then again, a Porsche is NOT a must have. lol Def. just a WANT.
The values are my biggest concern though. I might really regret not doing the turbo now. I'll know more Wed. I hope. If the other X50 is still avail. (not the one I drove) I'll probably pul the trigger on it for sure.
08-16-2017, 08:59 PM
#110
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Ok... 2001 Turbo. 63K miles. 2 "real" owners (there is a third but he's just flipping it). First died after only 3500 miles. Second owner had for 14-15 years and kept impeccable records / maintenance on the car. He's in his 60's. Current owner is 70 but only owned a month. Paint and interior are 9 / 10. No NAV, but most other options (No 6 disc changer). Car drives very good with exception of Tire Roar from back tires (Kumo brand and harder compound). Might need tires "trued" up. Pulls slightly right on hwy. so it needs aligned. Clean CarFax. Tones of receipts. Front wheel bearings done recently. Clutch feels good but not sure if ever replaced. Orig. MSRP was $121,xxx. Seal Grey with Graphite gray interior (not worn like some I've seen). Carbo fiber steering wheel option. Center console painted (not sure if original). Everything seems to work, including the rear spoiler. No real way to get a PPI in the area where the car is, but everything looks , sounds, drives, like it's a completely well cared for car.
I can buy it for $46K..... I have to pay the "GATAVT" tax when I get my tag. I'll be into it at $48,500 ish. Thoughts????
I like the car!!
I can buy it for $46K..... I have to pay the "GATAVT" tax when I get my tag. I'll be into it at $48,500 ish. Thoughts????
I like the car!!
08-16-2017, 10:02 PM
#111
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The car I found and posted about above fits this exactly!! ^
All stock, Well maintained and documented, Clean CarFax, Great paint and interior, 2 owner car with mature / aging owners (well technically 3 but this guy is just flipping it cause he got a deal), 63K miles, Everything works, FOR $46K
I'm thinking of jumping on it, but just wanted he blessing of a few pros here.
08-16-2017, 11:09 PM
#113
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08-16-2017, 11:11 PM
#114
Car was never on market. It was just offered to me randomly during my search. If the gentleman gets back to me and is still planning to sell, I'll let you know. Clean car that just doesn't get driven enough.
08-17-2017, 01:17 AM
#115
08-17-2017, 07:57 AM
#116
Ok... 2001 Turbo. 63K miles. 2 "real" owners (there is a third but he's just flipping it). First died after only 3500 miles. Second owner had for 14-15 years and kept impeccable records / maintenance on the car. He's in his 60's. Current owner is 70 but only owned a month. Paint and interior are 9 / 10. No NAV, but most other options (No 6 disc changer). Car drives very good with exception of Tire Roar from back tires (Kumo brand and harder compound). Might need tires "trued" up. Pulls slightly right on hwy. so it needs aligned. Clean CarFax. Tones of receipts. Front wheel bearings done recently. Clutch feels good but not sure if ever replaced. Orig. MSRP was $121,xxx. Seal Grey with Graphite gray interior (not worn like some I've seen). Carbo fiber steering wheel option. Center console painted (not sure if original). Everything seems to work, including the rear spoiler. No real way to get a PPI in the area where the car is, but everything looks , sounds, drives, like it's a completely well cared for car.
I can buy it for $46K..... I have to pay the "GATAVT" tax when I get my tag. I'll be into it at $48,500 ish. Thoughts????
I like the car!!
I can buy it for $46K..... I have to pay the "GATAVT" tax when I get my tag. I'll be into it at $48,500 ish. Thoughts????
I like the car!!
A couple of questions that I posed to my friend a little while ago before he bought his.
Best case: If it needed a new fuel pump in a week after you bought it can you replace it or pay someone to?
Worst case: What if the engine blew up a week after you bought it?
If you can't live with either of those scenarios, walk. If they don't scare you but are just concerning then jump.
Just my .02.
08-17-2017, 11:35 AM
#117
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Sounds pretty good and a lot like mine except for a few small differences.
A couple of questions that I posed to my friend a little while ago before he bought his.
Best case: If it needed a new fuel pump in a week after you bought it can you replace it or pay someone to?
Worst case: What if the engine blew up a week after you bought it?
If you can't live with either of those scenarios, walk. If they don't scare you but are just concerning then jump.
Just my .02.
A couple of questions that I posed to my friend a little while ago before he bought his.
Best case: If it needed a new fuel pump in a week after you bought it can you replace it or pay someone to?
Worst case: What if the engine blew up a week after you bought it?
If you can't live with either of those scenarios, walk. If they don't scare you but are just concerning then jump.
Just my .02.
If it blew up, Well that would suck for sure. Would be break me to fix? No, but I'd be working a LOT of extra duty jobs to pay for it. (Let's hope that doesn't happen.)
If the fuel pump an expensive job / hard to do? Is that why you chose that scenario?
08-17-2017, 11:52 AM
#118
Would have to learn about working on these and decide if I'm capable or not.
If it blew up, Well that would suck for sure. Would be break me to fix? No, but I'd be working a LOT of extra duty jobs to pay for it. (Let's hope that doesn't happen.)
If the fuel pump an expensive job / hard to do? Is that why you chose that scenario?
If it blew up, Well that would suck for sure. Would be break me to fix? No, but I'd be working a LOT of extra duty jobs to pay for it. (Let's hope that doesn't happen.)
If the fuel pump an expensive job / hard to do? Is that why you chose that scenario?
I only chose the fuel pump as an example because it's one of the items that can have issues with the age of these cars. If you do it yourself it's somewhere in the $6-700 range, take it to a shop and that number grows since there is labor involved.
What I'm getting at is, you either need deep pockets to send the car out for maintenance/repairs or you need expendable income and the know how to fix it yourself. You also need the mindset/wherewithal that if something major goes wrong with the car it won't "crush" you, which it seems it won't from your comment above
If those are both true then go for it IMO. At the end of the day we are taking a certain amount of risk buying a 12-16 year old car with "x" miles, IMO the risk is lesser than a "normal" vehicle in that age range because of the quality of the car itself but we have to factor in that when something does go wrong your not going to run down to <big box parts store> and pay $20 for most things, like the fuel pump.
I am not trying to "throw my wisdom on you" by any means but if you want to BS about it a bit feel free to PM me and we can get together on the phone and I can share more of my experience. Obviously it will only be one data point for you but the offer is there for exactly that, a data point.
08-17-2017, 12:00 PM
#119
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If you have done work on other vehicles and are competent at it you should not have any issues.
I only chose the fuel pump as an example because it's one of the items that can have issues with the age of these cars. If you do it yourself it's somewhere in the $6-700 range, take it to a shop and that number grows since there is labor involved.
What I'm getting at is, you either need deep pockets to send the car out for maintenance/repairs or you need expendable income and the know how to fix it yourself. You also need the mindset/wherewithal that if something major goes wrong with the car it won't "crush" you, which it seems it won't from your comment above
If those are both true then go for it IMO. At the end of the day we are taking a certain amount of risk buying a 12-16 year old car with "x" miles, IMO the risk is lesser than a "normal" vehicle in that age range because of the quality of the car itself but we have to factor in that when something does go wrong your not going to run down to <big box parts store> and pay $20 for most things, like the fuel pump.
I am not trying to "throw my wisdom on you" by any means but if you want to BS about it a bit feel free to PM me and we can get together on the phone and I can share more of my experience. Obviously it will only be one data point for you but the offer is there for exactly that, a data point.
I only chose the fuel pump as an example because it's one of the items that can have issues with the age of these cars. If you do it yourself it's somewhere in the $6-700 range, take it to a shop and that number grows since there is labor involved.
What I'm getting at is, you either need deep pockets to send the car out for maintenance/repairs or you need expendable income and the know how to fix it yourself. You also need the mindset/wherewithal that if something major goes wrong with the car it won't "crush" you, which it seems it won't from your comment above
If those are both true then go for it IMO. At the end of the day we are taking a certain amount of risk buying a 12-16 year old car with "x" miles, IMO the risk is lesser than a "normal" vehicle in that age range because of the quality of the car itself but we have to factor in that when something does go wrong your not going to run down to <big box parts store> and pay $20 for most things, like the fuel pump.
I am not trying to "throw my wisdom on you" by any means but if you want to BS about it a bit feel free to PM me and we can get together on the phone and I can share more of my experience. Obviously it will only be one data point for you but the offer is there for exactly that, a data point.
I just became a member instead of just a user, so I hope to be here for a while now. I'll shoot you a PM and really appreciate the offer to help.
David
08-17-2017, 12:51 PM
#120
Burning Brakes
I really and truly appreciate the advice and offer. Thank you!! I encourage any and all advice. I'm not proud. I definitely need / want to be educated on my future purchase.
I just became a member instead of just a user, so I hope to be here for a while now. I'll shoot you a PM and really appreciate the offer to help.
David
I just became a member instead of just a user, so I hope to be here for a while now. I'll shoot you a PM and really appreciate the offer to help.
David