996 GT3 Alignment/ Setup Thread
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
996 GT3 Alignment/ Setup Thread
I have searched but did not find a thread with alignment / set up tech. So I am starting this thread, (if this is a duplicate, mods, please merge with the appropriate thread)
I am new to the GT3 ownership so looking for advice and experience with the setup. Certainly a lot goes into any given setup including driver preference and use for the car. If you know your setup and specifications please post it here. The more information the better.
Spring rates/dampers
Ride height front and rear, preferably measured as Porsche recommends,(to keep things comparable)
Camber, toe, caster settings
Sway bar setting
Corner weights
Tires
Primary/secondary use (street, track, both)
Also, include your opinion and experience with it.
I am getting ready to have mine done, and appreciate the input and collective experience of the members here.
My car has JRZ RS suspension 700#/900#. My research seems to point to 3* camber front, 2.8* rear, 0 toe, caster??. Front bar 4th hole from soft, rear 2nd hole. Front ride ht 95mm, rear 130mm. Tires not sure yet, leaning to A7's for track, have Sumitomo for street.
Car is street and some track.
Thanks in Advance.
I am new to the GT3 ownership so looking for advice and experience with the setup. Certainly a lot goes into any given setup including driver preference and use for the car. If you know your setup and specifications please post it here. The more information the better.
Spring rates/dampers
Ride height front and rear, preferably measured as Porsche recommends,(to keep things comparable)
Camber, toe, caster settings
Sway bar setting
Corner weights
Tires
Primary/secondary use (street, track, both)
Also, include your opinion and experience with it.
I am getting ready to have mine done, and appreciate the input and collective experience of the members here.
My car has JRZ RS suspension 700#/900#. My research seems to point to 3* camber front, 2.8* rear, 0 toe, caster??. Front bar 4th hole from soft, rear 2nd hole. Front ride ht 95mm, rear 130mm. Tires not sure yet, leaning to A7's for track, have Sumitomo for street.
Car is street and some track.
Thanks in Advance.
#2
Welcome, you're going to enjoy the 996GT3.
This is an old topic that's been pretty well sorted out by now. Probably the best search will be "Kussmaul" in this forum. Bob Rouleau managed to get set up data from Roland Kussmaul and Bob shared it with the RL community many years ago. Still applies
This is an old topic that's been pretty well sorted out by now. Probably the best search will be "Kussmaul" in this forum. Bob Rouleau managed to get set up data from Roland Kussmaul and Bob shared it with the RL community many years ago. Still applies
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Search failed me, thanks for the proper term
In case anyone else is crap at search like me here is the R Kussmaul setup.
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...-alignment.doc
Obviously a well regarded place to start. Still interested on individual variances.
Thanks,
Jeff
In case anyone else is crap at search like me here is the R Kussmaul setup.
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...-alignment.doc
Obviously a well regarded place to start. Still interested on individual variances.
Thanks,
Jeff
#4
Three Wheelin'
I saved these specs a while ago:
Roland Kussmaul Specs:
Front axle:
Camber: -2.5º
Max camber difference, left/right: 5'
Toe total: +5'
Toe difference at 20° lock: -1°20' +/- 30'
Caster: 8° +/- 30'
Max caster difference, left/right: 30'
Front height: 115mm
Swaybar – 1 from hard
Rear axle:
Toe total: 35’ +/- 2'
Max toe difference, left/right: 5'
Camber: -2.3° +/- 5'
Max camber difference, left/right: 10'
Rear height: 128mm
Swaybar – 1 from hard
They can be found here
Roland Kussmaul Specs:
Front axle:
Camber: -2.5º
Max camber difference, left/right: 5'
Toe total: +5'
Toe difference at 20° lock: -1°20' +/- 30'
Caster: 8° +/- 30'
Max caster difference, left/right: 30'
Front height: 115mm
Swaybar – 1 from hard
Rear axle:
Toe total: 35’ +/- 2'
Max toe difference, left/right: 5'
Camber: -2.3° +/- 5'
Max camber difference, left/right: 10'
Rear height: 128mm
Swaybar – 1 from hard
They can be found here
#5
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
These are mine:
Front Axle:
Camber -3.8
Toe 0.5 out each side
Rear:
Camber -2.9
Toe 2.5 in each side
Not sure of the spring rates but heavier than standard. Sway bars two notches from stiffest setting front and rear.
The car is very pointy, yet predictable with these settings. Zero understeer.
Front Axle:
Camber -3.8
Toe 0.5 out each side
Rear:
Camber -2.9
Toe 2.5 in each side
Not sure of the spring rates but heavier than standard. Sway bars two notches from stiffest setting front and rear.
The car is very pointy, yet predictable with these settings. Zero understeer.
#6
Burning Brakes
These are mine:
Front Axle:
Camber -3.8
Toe 0.5 out each side
Rear:
Camber -2.9
Toe 2.5 in each side
Not sure of the spring rates but heavier than standard. Sway bars two notches from stiffest setting front and rear.
The car is very pointy, yet predictable with these settings. Zero understeer.
Front Axle:
Camber -3.8
Toe 0.5 out each side
Rear:
Camber -2.9
Toe 2.5 in each side
Not sure of the spring rates but heavier than standard. Sway bars two notches from stiffest setting front and rear.
The car is very pointy, yet predictable with these settings. Zero understeer.
You are tracking this setup right?
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#8
Rennlist Member
In my 7-3 I had alignment in the mid 3's camber, car is too nervous for the road like that.. dialled it out to 2.5~ F&R and it feels much better as a road car, almost same alignment as my 996.2 gt3.
I have tracked it on R's with this alignment and its just not enough camber, don't get me wrong it feels good but it could have done with what I dialled out of it.
I think you need to make a decision and have it setup either one way or the other to be honest.
Sway bar setting is the other thing to consider, they also are not the same for road & track.
Cheers
I have tracked it on R's with this alignment and its just not enough camber, don't get me wrong it feels good but it could have done with what I dialled out of it.
I think you need to make a decision and have it setup either one way or the other to be honest.
Sway bar setting is the other thing to consider, they also are not the same for road & track.
Cheers
#9
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
In my 7-3 I had alignment in the mid 3's camber, car is too nervous for the road like that.. dialled it out to 2.5~ F&R and it feels much better as a road car, almost same alignment as my 996.2 gt3.
I have tracked it on R's with this alignment and its just not enough camber, don't get me wrong it feels good but it could have done with what I dialled out of it.
I think you need to make a decision and have it setup either one way or the other to be honest.
Sway bar setting is the other thing to consider, they also are not the same for road & track.
Cheers
I have tracked it on R's with this alignment and its just not enough camber, don't get me wrong it feels good but it could have done with what I dialled out of it.
I think you need to make a decision and have it setup either one way or the other to be honest.
Sway bar setting is the other thing to consider, they also are not the same for road & track.
Cheers
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
These are mine:
Front Axle:
Camber -3.8
Toe 0.5 out each side
Rear:
Camber -2.9
Toe 2.5 in each side
Not sure of the spring rates but heavier than standard. Sway bars two notches from stiffest setting front and rear.
The car is very pointy, yet predictable with these settings. Zero understeer.
Front Axle:
Camber -3.8
Toe 0.5 out each side
Rear:
Camber -2.9
Toe 2.5 in each side
Not sure of the spring rates but heavier than standard. Sway bars two notches from stiffest setting front and rear.
The car is very pointy, yet predictable with these settings. Zero understeer.
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
In my 7-3 I had alignment in the mid 3's camber, car is too nervous for the road like that.. dialled it out to 2.5~ F&R and it feels much better as a road car, almost same alignment as my 996.2 gt3.
I have tracked it on R's with this alignment and its just not enough camber, don't get me wrong it feels good but it could have done with what I dialled out of it.
I think you need to make a decision and have it setup either one way or the other to be honest.
Sway bar setting is the other thing to consider, they also are not the same for road & track.
Cheers
I have tracked it on R's with this alignment and its just not enough camber, don't get me wrong it feels good but it could have done with what I dialled out of it.
I think you need to make a decision and have it setup either one way or the other to be honest.
Sway bar setting is the other thing to consider, they also are not the same for road & track.
Cheers
Astrx, what are/were your other settings? Spring rates, toe, caster, ride height, and bar settings where you were happy with it on the street? Also what tires for track and street?
Thanks, really appreciate the insights.
Jeff
#12
Race Car
To really get close you need to 100% decide on a tire. You mention A7's...that's an auto-x compound tire and the only track guys I've seen run it are running time trials where they run 3-4 laps at a time and then quit. Run R7 not A7 unless you are trying to compete.
also you mention front ride height of 95mm...thats REAL low...like problems driving on the street low. I run mine at around 103mm and it requires tie rod ends with bump steer correction due to the ride height. With the splitter attached it's barely manageable to drive on the street...have to be really aware of taking angles when approaching any incline.
With that much spring and it sounds like you are going to run Hoosiers...3 degrees of camber isn't going to be enough in the front. It'd work out for a Nitto but you're going to cord the outside edges of the Hoosiers at the track with that setup.
also you mention front ride height of 95mm...thats REAL low...like problems driving on the street low. I run mine at around 103mm and it requires tie rod ends with bump steer correction due to the ride height. With the splitter attached it's barely manageable to drive on the street...have to be really aware of taking angles when approaching any incline.
With that much spring and it sounds like you are going to run Hoosiers...3 degrees of camber isn't going to be enough in the front. It'd work out for a Nitto but you're going to cord the outside edges of the Hoosiers at the track with that setup.
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
To really get close you need to 100% decide on a tire. You mention A7's...that's an auto-x compound tire and the only track guys I've seen run it are running time trials where they run 3-4 laps at a time and then quit. Run R7 not A7 unless you are trying to compete.
also you mention front ride height of 95mm...thats REAL low...like problems driving on the street low. I run mine at around 103mm and it requires tie rod ends with bump steer correction due to the ride height. With the splitter attached it's barely manageable to drive on the street...have to be really aware of taking angles when approaching any incline.
With that much spring and it sounds like you are going to run Hoosiers...3 degrees of camber isn't going to be enough in the front. It'd work out for a Nitto but you're going to cord the outside edges of the Hoosiers at the track with that setup.
also you mention front ride height of 95mm...thats REAL low...like problems driving on the street low. I run mine at around 103mm and it requires tie rod ends with bump steer correction due to the ride height. With the splitter attached it's barely manageable to drive on the street...have to be really aware of taking angles when approaching any incline.
With that much spring and it sounds like you are going to run Hoosiers...3 degrees of camber isn't going to be enough in the front. It'd work out for a Nitto but you're going to cord the outside edges of the Hoosiers at the track with that setup.
I don't want to do an alignment every time I go to the track eithe; outside my area of expertise to myself, and too much of a PIA to have someone else do (cost/fun ratio starts to get out of whack for me)
My thought is 95 is too low as well, that is just one recommendation, roads are pretty good here, but we have speed bumps and humps.
#14
Race Car
FWIW...I ran Nitto's forever and still always go to the track with a set with me. They're fast enough that in a well driven GT3 you'll still be faster than 90% of the cars out there. They like alot of slip angle...if that's not something you are comfortable with you will not be that fast on them. Best part is because they aren't super sticky they don't require that aggressive of an alignment.
Here is the setup I ran with just nitto's.
JRZ 3-ways
600/750 springs
-3.0 camber front / -2.3 camber rear
105mm / 125mm ride height
.05 toe front / .20 toe rear (measurements are PER SIDE)
Front sway -1 from full stiff
Rear sway full soft
I'd flip the tires on the rim at about half of their life and in the end they would cord in the middle of the tires.
Here is the setup I ran with just nitto's.
JRZ 3-ways
600/750 springs
-3.0 camber front / -2.3 camber rear
105mm / 125mm ride height
.05 toe front / .20 toe rear (measurements are PER SIDE)
Front sway -1 from full stiff
Rear sway full soft
I'd flip the tires on the rim at about half of their life and in the end they would cord in the middle of the tires.
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks Andy.
Good info there.
Did you drive it on the street with that set up? If so, your impression?
My springs rates are higher (700/900 as noted), JRZ's are single adjustable, so already a little harsher set up. I have the stock suspension, but don't think I want to put it back on.
Good info there.
Did you drive it on the street with that set up? If so, your impression?
My springs rates are higher (700/900 as noted), JRZ's are single adjustable, so already a little harsher set up. I have the stock suspension, but don't think I want to put it back on.