How far to go upgrading suspension
11-16-2014, 11:46 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
How far to go upgrading suspension
I am adding locking plates (https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...or-a-spin.html) and I was inspecting my setup and wondering what other changes should I make while I am doing the plates because I am going to do the alignment anyway (myself).
I thought I would make a new thread because I didnt see any threads that dealt with how much to upgrade. They are more about which parts.
The car has 14k, and stock everything except rear toe links w/o locking plates. This car is track only, I drive to/from the track and I use it for my own skill development. I am doing about 30 days a year at this rate, mostly at Harris Hill. I run nt01/Mpsc. I run the kassmaul alignment settings. I am doing 1:24's at h2r, but can see a path to 1:22 at this point. So my performance is relative, there is no DE to win. I get coaching a couple times a year. I plan to hit more tracks this coming year. I race NASA and try to keep fresh.
So all that said, I would love some opinions on how far to upgrade the suspension. I am not racing so I think I am mostly looking for adjustability as I play with settings. I do want to maximize my performance with this package. If something is a wear item then I would replace with whatever makes sense. I don't care about budget, but I do care about value. I am a function before fashion, data driven nerd.
I was thinking RSS dog bones for adjustability, and debating on LCA's. I am almost certain I would just get on a schedule of rebuilding my shocks vs motons or whatever.
Thanks for any input, I know I posted a book..but I am verbose so hopefully it helps others.
Opinions? Love to hear what ya'll think.
I thought I would make a new thread because I didnt see any threads that dealt with how much to upgrade. They are more about which parts.
The car has 14k, and stock everything except rear toe links w/o locking plates. This car is track only, I drive to/from the track and I use it for my own skill development. I am doing about 30 days a year at this rate, mostly at Harris Hill. I run nt01/Mpsc. I run the kassmaul alignment settings. I am doing 1:24's at h2r, but can see a path to 1:22 at this point. So my performance is relative, there is no DE to win. I get coaching a couple times a year. I plan to hit more tracks this coming year. I race NASA and try to keep fresh.
So all that said, I would love some opinions on how far to upgrade the suspension. I am not racing so I think I am mostly looking for adjustability as I play with settings. I do want to maximize my performance with this package. If something is a wear item then I would replace with whatever makes sense. I don't care about budget, but I do care about value. I am a function before fashion, data driven nerd.
I was thinking RSS dog bones for adjustability, and debating on LCA's. I am almost certain I would just get on a schedule of rebuilding my shocks vs motons or whatever.
Thanks for any input, I know I posted a book..but I am verbose so hopefully it helps others.
Opinions? Love to hear what ya'll think.
11-16-2014, 11:58 AM
#2
Your fine. If you start racing and start using Hoosiers then you will need to change rear LCA to fronts so shims can be added. Changing dog bones not really needed. Enjoy the car get more experience then possibly look at shocks/springs.
11-16-2014, 12:06 PM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
I found this post to be interesting...
Either replace it all or drive it stock. Put doing it piece by piece makes no sense and will cost you more in the long run with compounding labor and multiple alignments. Remember, every time you upgrade a piece to a rubber-less unit, you now expose (and the car will find it on track) the next weakest link.
If you have to go in order, replace the toe links first, then the LCA, then the rest.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...k-upgrade.html
Either replace it all or drive it stock. Put doing it piece by piece makes no sense and will cost you more in the long run with compounding labor and multiple alignments. Remember, every time you upgrade a piece to a rubber-less unit, you now expose (and the car will find it on track) the next weakest link.
If you have to go in order, replace the toe links first, then the LCA, then the rest.
11-18-2014, 08:21 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Having done it the other way, I completely agree with Dell. I'd add that the car is MUCH faster and more fun to drive heavily modified...Motons, springs, LSD, lowered, etc.
11-18-2014, 08:32 PM
#6
Racer
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I also agree with Dell (based on experience), either go all the way or just leave it stock. If you are not trying to win a DE or race just do want you want to the car and enjoy driving it.
11-19-2014, 03:21 AM
#7
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
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agree with dell
stock or....
monoball EVERYTHING with MCS, JRZ, OHLIN, KW, etc etc
it will drive totally different than what you are used to.
i have some garage queens that are 99S% stock.
then i have track cars with full suspension done.
i do not have anything that's in between.
stock or....
monoball EVERYTHING with MCS, JRZ, OHLIN, KW, etc etc
it will drive totally different than what you are used to.
i have some garage queens that are 99S% stock.
then i have track cars with full suspension done.
i do not have anything that's in between.
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11-19-2014, 10:16 AM
#8
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i agree too.
anything in the middle will not make you happy.
all the way or none, but since you said this is a trackcar, then all the way.
having adjustable suspension, you can always dial it back some notches, raise ride height, make alignment back to stock,etc, etc, if you get sick of tracking and you just wanna drive it on street.
anything in the middle will not make you happy.
all the way or none, but since you said this is a trackcar, then all the way.
having adjustable suspension, you can always dial it back some notches, raise ride height, make alignment back to stock,etc, etc, if you get sick of tracking and you just wanna drive it on street.
11-19-2014, 10:27 AM
#9
Agree with other, do it all or stay stock.
Got a set of these available if you wanna go baller. JRZ RS Pros, dual adjustable, canisters with quick disconnects. Monoball tops and bottoms. Virtually new, less than 1800 miles on them. Never seen rain. Factory box included. Not pictured but included are rear Tarett drop link brackets / drop links. Choice of springs is 1100/1200 or 1400/1500. Just bolt on an go.
Got a set of these available if you wanna go baller. JRZ RS Pros, dual adjustable, canisters with quick disconnects. Monoball tops and bottoms. Virtually new, less than 1800 miles on them. Never seen rain. Factory box included. Not pictured but included are rear Tarett drop link brackets / drop links. Choice of springs is 1100/1200 or 1400/1500. Just bolt on an go.
11-19-2014, 10:39 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
I kinda disagree with everyone here. I did mine piece meal and it allowed me to grow my skills with the car. I think the order of what you do does matter however.
My car ides on stock coilovers, but is completely monoballex in the lower with all RSS Tarmac series stuff. I am going to Ohlins TTX coilover over the winter as the stock stuff is finally done and needs replacing.
I did the monoball stuff 2 years ago in an attempt to make the car more precise, but I didn't want to add stiffer coilovers as I knew my skill wasn't up to dealing will a lively car yet. The car at this point allowed me to steer with precision, but still have to learn how to weight and unweighted the car correctly as the stock spring rate and damping where still 'street ready'. I also stayed on the Toyo R888's until the middle of this year also to continue to teach myself speed without true handling. The car will do consistent 2:01's at VIR, consistent 2:03's at WGI on R6's. Anyone who rides in the car will tell you the car feels planted and there is no fuss doing these times.
The point is, don't do anything until you have extracted the most from yourself as a driver. By making the changes to suspension in the order that matches your growth in driving, you are able to extract the maximum from those changes because you better able to adapt to the change due to a better skillset.
My car ides on stock coilovers, but is completely monoballex in the lower with all RSS Tarmac series stuff. I am going to Ohlins TTX coilover over the winter as the stock stuff is finally done and needs replacing.
I did the monoball stuff 2 years ago in an attempt to make the car more precise, but I didn't want to add stiffer coilovers as I knew my skill wasn't up to dealing will a lively car yet. The car at this point allowed me to steer with precision, but still have to learn how to weight and unweighted the car correctly as the stock spring rate and damping where still 'street ready'. I also stayed on the Toyo R888's until the middle of this year also to continue to teach myself speed without true handling. The car will do consistent 2:01's at VIR, consistent 2:03's at WGI on R6's. Anyone who rides in the car will tell you the car feels planted and there is no fuss doing these times.
The point is, don't do anything until you have extracted the most from yourself as a driver. By making the changes to suspension in the order that matches your growth in driving, you are able to extract the maximum from those changes because you better able to adapt to the change due to a better skillset.
11-19-2014, 11:10 AM
#11
Rennlist Member
I kinda disagree with everyone here. I did mine piece meal and it allowed me to grow my skills with the car. I think the order of what you do does matter however.
My car ides on stock coilovers, but is completely monoballex in the lower with all RSS Tarmac series stuff. I am going to Ohlins TTX coilover over the winter as the stock stuff is finally done and needs replacing.
I did the monoball stuff 2 years ago in an attempt to make the car more precise, but I didn't want to add stiffer coilovers as I knew my skill wasn't up to dealing will a lively car yet. The car at this point allowed me to steer with precision, but still have to learn how to weight and unweighted the car correctly as the stock spring rate and damping where still 'street ready'. I also stayed on the Toyo R888's until the middle of this year also to continue to teach myself speed without true handling. The car will do consistent 2:01's at VIR, consistent 2:03's at WGI on R6's. Anyone who rides in the car will tell you the car feels planted and there is no fuss doing these times.
The point is, don't do anything until you have extracted the most from yourself as a driver. By making the changes to suspension in the order that matches your growth in driving, you are able to extract the maximum from those changes because you better able to adapt to the change due to a better skillset.
My car ides on stock coilovers, but is completely monoballex in the lower with all RSS Tarmac series stuff. I am going to Ohlins TTX coilover over the winter as the stock stuff is finally done and needs replacing.
I did the monoball stuff 2 years ago in an attempt to make the car more precise, but I didn't want to add stiffer coilovers as I knew my skill wasn't up to dealing will a lively car yet. The car at this point allowed me to steer with precision, but still have to learn how to weight and unweighted the car correctly as the stock spring rate and damping where still 'street ready'. I also stayed on the Toyo R888's until the middle of this year also to continue to teach myself speed without true handling. The car will do consistent 2:01's at VIR, consistent 2:03's at WGI on R6's. Anyone who rides in the car will tell you the car feels planted and there is no fuss doing these times.
The point is, don't do anything until you have extracted the most from yourself as a driver. By making the changes to suspension in the order that matches your growth in driving, you are able to extract the maximum from those changes because you better able to adapt to the change due to a better skillset.
11-19-2014, 01:43 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Taking out all the rubber is best but, if you want to do it in steps start with the big stuff and work down to the smaller bushings. Rear mounts first , then caster pucks etc.
11-19-2014, 02:18 PM
#13
Nordschleife Master
I agree with Dell also 
To add to this....I have come back full circle and now drive my current GT3 (7.1) completely stock and more fun than I could have ever imagined. I can say the same about Scott's old 6.2 GT3 he recently sold here. It was stock and I had a blast driving that car on track when he'd let me
The NT01 tires are a perfect match for the stock suspension and the times I'm running at VIR still put a huge smile on my face and give the greatest satisfaction when I'm done. Besides, there isn't but a few cars running times faster so what are you really going to do? It's horrible to have to run by yourself or keep dealing with traffic.
Either get the locking plates and slap on some NT01s or step away from the credit card and buy a cup if your skill level permits. I wouldn't say it was a waste of money doing everything I did to the first one, it was just foolish looking back in hindsight when the end game was one that cost me more than a cup and still several hundred pounds heavier than a cup and nowhere near the performance.
To add to this....I have come back full circle and now drive my current GT3 (7.1) completely stock and more fun than I could have ever imagined. I can say the same about Scott's old 6.2 GT3 he recently sold here. It was stock and I had a blast driving that car on track when he'd let me
The NT01 tires are a perfect match for the stock suspension and the times I'm running at VIR still put a huge smile on my face and give the greatest satisfaction when I'm done. Besides, there isn't but a few cars running times faster so what are you really going to do? It's horrible to have to run by yourself or keep dealing with traffic.
Either get the locking plates and slap on some NT01s or step away from the credit card and buy a cup if your skill level permits. I wouldn't say it was a waste of money doing everything I did to the first one, it was just foolish looking back in hindsight when the end game was one that cost me more than a cup and still several hundred pounds heavier than a cup and nowhere near the performance.
11-19-2014, 02:51 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
11-19-2014, 03:09 PM
#15
Race Car
How much vibration did they add...did they add to the driving experience any? My car is full monoball everywhere (freshening some of them right now) but I've always kept stock motor and tranny mounts because I fear the extra vibration will be particularly annoying for street driving.