Tequipment bar install, Stud vs Bolt
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Tequipment bar install, Stud vs Bolt
Decided to start a new thread to make it easier for the search engine.
I needed to remove passenger seat from recently purchased GT3, which meant i needed to remove the passenger side seatbelt mounting bolt.
Removal of the bolt was a bit challenging due to preload on the bar.
I knew it wasn't going to be fun to reinstall bolt.
I did a search, found this thread, and was happy to see a post by Peter re. using a stud instead of a bolt.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...r-install.html
Using a stud makes a lot of sense, because;
Living in San Diego, i have access to a marvelous industrial hardware store where you can buy most any specialty fastener. you can do the same through McMaster or Grainger, but Marshalls allows you to buy ONE of an item, not an ENTIRE box.
http://www.marshallshardware.com/
there is a Marshalls in SLC, UT also.
It cost me ~ $3.50 for a grade 8 nut and bolt.
I already had the required die, so this was an easy-peasey fabrication and install.
Like Peter, I used blue Loctite as a threadlocker.
Once the stud was installed, I was able to align the seat belt mount bushing onto the stud and gently tap into place with a rubber mallet while gently prying on the bar a bit.
Highly recommended mod for those with a Tequipment bar.
Craig
A few tips to those who may not be "professional" fabricators.
Photo's below
I needed to remove passenger seat from recently purchased GT3, which meant i needed to remove the passenger side seatbelt mounting bolt.
Removal of the bolt was a bit challenging due to preload on the bar.
I knew it wasn't going to be fun to reinstall bolt.
I did a search, found this thread, and was happy to see a post by Peter re. using a stud instead of a bolt.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...r-install.html
Using a stud makes a lot of sense, because;
- it's easily installed
- you can use the stud as guide for the bar
- you don't have to blindly pry and hope the bolt goes into the hole without damaging threads.
Living in San Diego, i have access to a marvelous industrial hardware store where you can buy most any specialty fastener. you can do the same through McMaster or Grainger, but Marshalls allows you to buy ONE of an item, not an ENTIRE box.
http://www.marshallshardware.com/
there is a Marshalls in SLC, UT also.
It cost me ~ $3.50 for a grade 8 nut and bolt.
I already had the required die, so this was an easy-peasey fabrication and install.
Like Peter, I used blue Loctite as a threadlocker.
Once the stud was installed, I was able to align the seat belt mount bushing onto the stud and gently tap into place with a rubber mallet while gently prying on the bar a bit.
Highly recommended mod for those with a Tequipment bar.
Craig
A few tips to those who may not be "professional" fabricators.
- Start your cut on the bolt with a file, then move to a hack saw. Will probably be hard to start a clean cut otherwise.
- Use "double-nut" technique to install the stud.
Photo's below
#3
Instructor
So, what exactly is the procedure for the bar install? No one has mentioned it, so maybe I'm just being thick.
With the studs in place how can you get the bar onto them? I'm guessing you have to "bend" the bar legs enough to get them over the studs. How is that done?
Or am I missing some detail?
With the studs in place how can you get the bar onto them? I'm guessing you have to "bend" the bar legs enough to get them over the studs. How is that done?
Or am I missing some detail?
#5
Rennlist Member
So, what exactly is the procedure for the bar install? No one has mentioned it, so maybe I'm just being thick.
With the studs in place how can you get the bar onto them? I'm guessing you have to "bend" the bar legs enough to get them over the studs. How is that done?
Or am I missing some detail?
With the studs in place how can you get the bar onto them? I'm guessing you have to "bend" the bar legs enough to get them over the studs. How is that done?
Or am I missing some detail?
You leave studs out and position the bar then insert the studs without the spacer. After the studs are installed you insert the spacers with a little arm muscle to line them up and maybe a tap or two with a soft face hammer. This keeps everything in proper alignment WITHOUT the common problem of cross threading the bolt and all the attendant misery that entails.
Peter
#7
Rennlist Member
Double nut the outside and blue loctite on the inner threads. Thighten it around 7 turns and then let the loctite set up. It will not bottom out but 7 turns will be plenty of threads engaged. After the loctite sets up you can remove the double nuts. Come to think of it I believe I just tightened mine by hand with no wrench necessary.
Peter
Peter
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
agreed with Peter above
Though as truth should be told, when torquing the nut to ~ 40 ft / lbs during final install, the stud turned about 10 degrees. I should have let the loctite set a bit longer.
Craig
- install double nuts on one end, tighten the nuts together
- apply blue loctite to other threaded end
- thread the stud into the "hole" 7 - 10 turns using the distal nut
- remove the nuts
- let loctite dry
- install the bar.
Though as truth should be told, when torquing the nut to ~ 40 ft / lbs during final install, the stud turned about 10 degrees. I should have let the loctite set a bit longer.
Craig