Let's Talk Winter Mods
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Let's Talk Winter Mods
Now that I've decided the 996 is something I want to keep and enjoy, I've been thinking about my plans for it this winter. The car has 13k miles and is 100% stock.
In the downtime, I'm definitely looking to get the coolant fittings pinned/welded, new hoses, new street tires, trans fluid flush, corner balance/alignment, and steel brake conversion.
That would be the minimum and I'm tempted to stay right there seeing as how that's $5k +/-.
Does anyone have any recommendations for what else I MUST consider?
I was thinking a rebuilt diff, but mine is still ok for now and I can replace that without needing the motor dropped.
Should I spring for some rss suspension bits before getting the car aligned?
Is a lwfw/clutch worth doing now? If so, what combo is presently recommended?
Thanks guys
- Patrick
In the downtime, I'm definitely looking to get the coolant fittings pinned/welded, new hoses, new street tires, trans fluid flush, corner balance/alignment, and steel brake conversion.
That would be the minimum and I'm tempted to stay right there seeing as how that's $5k +/-.
Does anyone have any recommendations for what else I MUST consider?
I was thinking a rebuilt diff, but mine is still ok for now and I can replace that without needing the motor dropped.
Should I spring for some rss suspension bits before getting the car aligned?
Is a lwfw/clutch worth doing now? If so, what combo is presently recommended?
Thanks guys
- Patrick
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks.. I'm definitely conscious of the room for improvement in safety, but made the decision to leave that out of this post.
Seats, a roll bar, hans compatible harness, and hans itself are in the cards.
Seats, a roll bar, hans compatible harness, and hans itself are in the cards.
#4
I believe the rear toe links are the only suspension bits that should be upgraded for safety. You might consider throwing in some Tarett locking plates while you're at it. I'm doing Rennline bumper mesh, and 3D camera setup with proper audio this winter
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yea.. I'm not even counting all the small goods I've been ordering. Spent about $1000 between suncoast and rennline this month.
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#8
Instructor
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sunny London,UK
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Guards Diff
thing is you don't really know where your diff is until you drive another 6.2 then you realise just how rubbish your is.
Uprated engine mounts
work's well with new diff.
Brake Pads
PF 08 front, 01 rear, again you prob think your current pads are good.
Water pipe fitting
get them welded if tracking
Single mass clutch
whilst engine is out, but not that important
Geo/suspension mods
endless options here, heart of the GT3 experience is a good geo. The vehicle's nothing without it. The more you lower it, the more you need to mod the arms.
Driver tuition
Prob the most worthwhile of all the above.
thing is you don't really know where your diff is until you drive another 6.2 then you realise just how rubbish your is.
Uprated engine mounts
work's well with new diff.
Brake Pads
PF 08 front, 01 rear, again you prob think your current pads are good.
Water pipe fitting
get them welded if tracking
Single mass clutch
whilst engine is out, but not that important
Geo/suspension mods
endless options here, heart of the GT3 experience is a good geo. The vehicle's nothing without it. The more you lower it, the more you need to mod the arms.
Driver tuition
Prob the most worthwhile of all the above.
#9
Nordschleife Master
If going to the track.....
Like you said, Safety first (roll bar, etc)
Then upgraded toe arms and locking plates and alignment
Then seat time
After that, then consider LSD, suspension bits.
You'd be surprised how fast and enjoyable this car is with just safety bits, toe arms, and an alignment. The rest is just gravy.
Like you said, Safety first (roll bar, etc)
Then upgraded toe arms and locking plates and alignment
Then seat time
After that, then consider LSD, suspension bits.
You'd be surprised how fast and enjoyable this car is with just safety bits, toe arms, and an alignment. The rest is just gravy.
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I agree and I'd prefer to leave well enough alone doing just the mentioned "new street tires, trans fluid flush, corner balance/alignment, and steel brake conversion."
However, I would not feel comfortable tracking without having the coolant fittings taken care of. It is simply too big of an unknown and the potential risks heavily outweigh the $2500 it would cost to take care of it.
My question was more of, is there anything I should think of as mandatory to take care of while the engine is dropped.
However, I would not feel comfortable tracking without having the coolant fittings taken care of. It is simply too big of an unknown and the potential risks heavily outweigh the $2500 it would cost to take care of it.
My question was more of, is there anything I should think of as mandatory to take care of while the engine is dropped.
#11
Nordschleife Master
Totally agree. I can't do my coolant fittings until after my warranty expires next xmas. But with on a couple track days and a whopping 11K total miles, I'd bet my fittings are fine
#12
kk2,
I agree with the coolant fittings, when you have the motor dropped have them take a look at your coil packs, a couple of mine were cracked and needed replacement. Might as well do the plugs while its down, just easier then. Also replace the coolant hoses, at this point they are pretty old and they've been known to go as well.
Another item to consider is replacing your fuel pump with the new one. Do a search on this forum and the new part number should come up. The pump runs about 350.00 if I remember correnctly. The original pump has rubber hoses which have been known to fail. Happened to me twice.
Also, if you do want to put a roll bar in I've got a two year old DAS bar available, I'm going full cage and strip.
Cheers,
J
I agree with the coolant fittings, when you have the motor dropped have them take a look at your coil packs, a couple of mine were cracked and needed replacement. Might as well do the plugs while its down, just easier then. Also replace the coolant hoses, at this point they are pretty old and they've been known to go as well.
Another item to consider is replacing your fuel pump with the new one. Do a search on this forum and the new part number should come up. The pump runs about 350.00 if I remember correnctly. The original pump has rubber hoses which have been known to fail. Happened to me twice.
Also, if you do want to put a roll bar in I've got a two year old DAS bar available, I'm going full cage and strip.
Cheers,
J
#13
Three Wheelin'
Safety, Safety, Safety.... Get good alignment and rear toe links. Don't worry about other suspension bits for now. Diff should be good with only 13K miles, so I would not touch it unless it is slipping. Also, do the mods slowly. This way you will get a chance to adjust to the new car feeling.
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
kk2,
I agree with the coolant fittings, when you have the motor dropped have them take a look at your coil packs, a couple of mine were cracked and needed replacement. Might as well do the plugs while its down, just easier then. Also replace the coolant hoses, at this point they are pretty old and they've been known to go as well.
Another item to consider is replacing your fuel pump with the new one. Do a search on this forum and the new part number should come up. The pump runs about 350.00 if I remember correnctly. The original pump has rubber hoses which have been known to fail. Happened to me twice.
Also, if you do want to put a roll bar in I've got a two year old DAS bar available, I'm going full cage and strip.
Cheers,
J
I agree with the coolant fittings, when you have the motor dropped have them take a look at your coil packs, a couple of mine were cracked and needed replacement. Might as well do the plugs while its down, just easier then. Also replace the coolant hoses, at this point they are pretty old and they've been known to go as well.
Another item to consider is replacing your fuel pump with the new one. Do a search on this forum and the new part number should come up. The pump runs about 350.00 if I remember correnctly. The original pump has rubber hoses which have been known to fail. Happened to me twice.
Also, if you do want to put a roll bar in I've got a two year old DAS bar available, I'm going full cage and strip.
Cheers,
J
I'll be in touch.
Safety, Safety, Safety.... Get good alignment and rear toe links. Don't worry about other suspension bits for now. Diff should be good with only 13K miles, so I would not touch it unless it is slipping. Also, do the mods slowly. This way you will get a chance to adjust to the new car feeling.