Serge944

I wouldn't worry about the minor coolant hoses - they pretty much NEVER fail. It's your call, but I didn't replace them when I did my engine. The two main ones that attach with clips on both sides of the engine should be replaced though.

If you are going to split the engine/trans to do a LWFW, you could replace your LSD clutches. It's not terribly difficult to do it yourself. You'll just have to disassemble and take a measurement prior to ordering parts from Guard Transmission. Remember to order new flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

With only 9k, I'm sure your spark plugs are still good. It's easy to replace them with the engine in the car anyways.

Optionally, if you want more hp, you can bore out the intake plenum and use a 997 throttle body.

Replace critical O-rings (such as the ones between the manifold and oil cooler).

One last bit of advice... When you go to install the engine, leave the 4 nuts that attach the engine mount loose. Torque them only after the engine/trans is in and you verify that the two lower coolant hard pipes align perfectly (see pic below). If they are not aligned, they can leak. I would also replace the O-rings at this location.

FFaust

Well, if the engine's out, you could always install a big bore kit

Nordschleifer

I have to be strong and stick to my plan - otherwise a coolant line welding job will quickly turn into a 4.0 conversion

Nordschleifer

Serge,
my lsd was rebuilt with Guards internals at 5k miles so im hoping it still works - are there any other o rings apart from the ones you mention between the oil cooler and manifold that need replacing ?
Thx Murat

AudiOn19s

enough of the procrastination on my part, I'm starting this tonight after work.

Problem is my work computer isn't reading my 996 shop CD. The portion's that aren't in the PDF provided on the previous page (removing the starter, removing A/C compressor) etc. I'm assuming all of that is pretty straight forward?

Any last minute tips would be great.

Thanks,
Andy

Serge944

I posted a pdf from poses in this thread. You have to remember that some of Porsche's instructions are based on getting the job done in as little time.

Break the A/C lines and DO NOT remove the A/C compressor prior to pulling the engine. Makes it a lot easier...

Removing the starter - these is nothing to it.

Nordschleifer

Andy we left ac compressor in car with lines attached. That way we didn't have to disconnect lines. Just attach the compressor to car with some rope so it doesn't swing around in empty engine bay. Starter is straight forward - only two bolts from what I remember. Removing the power steering line was a pita - I think we had to push in first to get it out. Pm if you have questions.
Murat

AudiOn19s

I decided to leave the a/c compressor attached so I didn't have to recharge the system. I pulled the power steering pump too so not sure if I'll have issues with the line or not.

Only real issue I had thus far was I found a slightly rounded Allen head bolt on one of the axle's. My car got a new tranny about 6k miles ago and I'm guessing it happened then. Thankfully I was careful and it came out without issue. These bolts appear trapped by the dust boot but can they be replaced?

Got a solid 3.5 hours in last night. Basically just the cross braces, tranny brace and motor mounts then we'll see if I got the car high enough on stands to get the motor out or not!

ninerguru

Pictures please!

MTB

Andy,
I am planning to drop the motor and have the fittings welded. I bought all hoses that I could locate the part #s on the PET. There are 4 hoses that I (and dealer) could not find the part #s . Was thinking to drop the motor then check the # on hoses! Since your motor is out, would you able to find out the part #s for me? If possible I prefer get all parts ready before dropping the motor.

The hoses that I am looking for are highlighted in BLUE.

Pic 1- TWO hoses, one is on the 90 elbow, the second one with #15 pointing at it.
Pic 2-ONE hose on the base of the oil heat exchanger
Pic 3 - One hose on the steering pump bracket.

Many thanks

Mike

AudiOn19s

well it's not quite out yet but when it gets completely out I'll look and see what the numbers are for you.

One other thing I'll ask. The two main coolant hoses in the engine bay on either side, that basically snap in and then are held in with a retaining clip. Is there any trick to properly removing these?

Knowins that I was going to replace them I didn't really have a problem prying on the lip of them some to get them to release ( and manglign the lip in the process), but they were REALLY in there and I'm wondering if I was missing a trick on getting them to more easily release

Nordschleifer

Andy to remove coolant lines you need to take off two metal clamps and then take your time to work the metal ends up with something like a big flat screwdriver. I scratched the metal a bit while pushing them up but finally the connection came off - hope this helps
Murat

AudiOn19s

That's how it went for me too, just wasn't sure if it was "normal" for them to be difficult. I'm assuming they are a pain to get back together too.

serickson

I found the best way to remove these coolant lines after the clip is removed is to spray WD40 in the gap then wiggle to distribute around. Without doing this it took me over an hour per end. I would not pry for fear of damaging. Beware that the part list is wrong about the clips. The clips on the coolant lines on the motor are the same. Parts manual shows otherwise.

Serge944

The main coolant hoses go in easily. Just lightly lube the o-rings.