CanyonBlaster

Thank you for your kind comments. I met with Stan yesterday. He spent alot of quality time with me, showed me all the parts that are fangled (the R&P is done for sure...overall lotsa badly worn and cracked parts...), he gave me a parts and price list and a computer print out of my new ratios. The spacing looks perfect for my needs, not too short, just closer ratios across 1-5, with 6th staying Overdrive/stock.

BTW - I am paying $2,755 for the R&P. I overstated earlier in the thread Re $3,500.

I'll scan this printout and post it for input/comments.
My desire is:
More fun to drive on local tracks (our club track/HPR, and Miller) AND mtn backroads/street use, with good durabilty, and trying to hold modest costs (this is a surprise expense - had to have a heart-to-heart with the wifey...).

One thought: Stan/G Box has all the heavy machine shop equipment they need in-house to literally "have their way" with my tranny. If he needs anything special, or exact custom match shims/spacers, etc..he can simply make them. This guy know his stuff. He assures me it will be spot on perfect, and a hoot to drive!

AllanJ

Just looked at your printout. With the 7000 rpm shift points you've chosen, the engine should last a very, very long time.

I have a roasted 2nd gear and am going through this process too. Trying to decide how much of a hit I want my wallet to take. Easy to go all out but the wife isn't too pleased with a potential massive bill. We'll see where I end up.

Cheers,

CanyonBlaster

Hi Alan, I believe the shift point is just to set a point for comparison, not limiting where I actually shift, but I will ask Stan.
What I have learnd thru all of this, is that once you open the tranny, there is likely a bit of a leap in there $....

AudiOn19s

Not many will agree with me but I think you did the right thing keeping the stock 6th gear ratio.

In in the same boat with driving my car to and from the track like you. Stock 6th is nice for freeway cruising. I wouldn't hesitate to shorten 3-5 in my car for a minute as I can't think of a track that I regularly attend where I'd need to use 6th even with a shorter 5th ratio.

The big jump between 5-6 would be totally worth it for me.

Andy

GrantG

I know the gentleman who created that Excel spreadsheet for Stan and you can easily change the shift point to any that you like (I can email the template if you like). If the engine is stock, you'll want to shift at 8k to 8.2k for anything approaching best performance. Shifting at 7k will make the engine last a long time, but you'd be missing the whole point of the GT3, imo.

All the best with your project and hope to see it in person soon!

CanyonBlaster

Here's te scoop RE the spreadsheet (I have a copy of the blank file as well, it is available on G Box website):

The actual gearing is proprietary to G Box. The only actual #'s on this file are the MPH spacing. Stan has years of experience working with this car and engine and prefers to keep his methods proprietary. That better explains the misleading #'s on the file.

The more I speak with Stan, the more confident I am that he is building the box perefctly suited to my specific personal use and needs with this car.

Thanks as always for the kind words and input. I do look forward to posting results once I get the car back on the road and the track!

GrantG

Stan is very sharp - you're in good hands. As far as the gearing being proprietary, it's very easily backwards engineered (by measuring speed and rpm in each gear), should you be curious

AllanJ

You can definitely shift higher than 7000rpm if you want to.

I agree. I also street my car and it's nice to pop it into 6th for highway cruising.

The OP specified the top priority being durability and if I was the mechanic choosing gears, I'd probably also choose ratios based on a desired shift point being closer to 7000rpm vs 8000rpm to match my client's desires. Nothing to say you can't shift higher though.

OEM is about 30mph spacing between 2-5 and I'm personally thinking about 22mph spacing for my car. You're partway between. Seems reasonable to me!

You're in good hands.

Cheers,

996FLT6

AllanJ- what caused the 2nd gear issues u having? Mike

AllanJ

Probably me.

Not sure what the original owner did to my car (bought at 10K miles), but I did learn heel & toe on this car so my rev-matching hasn't been perfect all the time.

Issue now is the occasional quick grind as I try to downshift from 3->2 at higher rpms. (low rpm range and all street driving is flawless) If I don't get the rev matching perfect, I'll get a quick "crunch" as I move into 2nd. Talking to my mechanic as well at Matt, the suspected case is the dog teeth are beat up on 2nd gear.

While I'm in there....gearing? R&P? New mainshaft?.... (you know how it goes)

I'll also put in a LWFW to help with rev-matching. Going to be an expensive winter. Need to buy lots of flowers for my wife.

Cheers,

996FLT6

Yeah- these cars are expensive to fix. After my stripping- had nothing but bad luck. Had 2 two day weekend events and I managed doing 2.25 sessions. Belt shredded/ FMS leak/ coolant press fitting decided to blow off and waterpump gone : (. What pp for lwf- 4.0 pp. I have r/p but if I had to do it again I woulda done the gearing instead ie less wear. I think I have 60 hrs post r/p. Mike

GrantG

Just remember that comparing the mph spacing between gears is only accurate if you are using a constant rpm (the higher the rpm, the bigger the speed differential between gears). i.e. you cannot compare OEM spacing at redline (8,200rpm) with this chart (7k rpm).

AllanJ

Understood.