Tranny is out for LSD and 1st gear syncro rebuild. G Box says needs $10K of stuff
10-23-2011, 06:00 PM
#46
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
what do you recommend? At this point, I'm at the end of the budget. Is there an upgrade that doesn't cost more than factory parts? Thx
10-23-2011, 06:31 PM
#47
Rennlist Member
If money is an issue I go with cup plates- same locking ratio 40/60 as stock but will last way alot longer at minimal costs. I remember it ran $700. Stock is brass and cup are steel just FYI. Having higher preload springs then stock I would think the stock brass units won't last at all. Mike
10-23-2011, 09:16 PM
#48
Rennlist Member
If money is an issue I go with cup plates- same locking ratio 40/60 as stock but will last way alot longer at minimal costs. I remember it ran $700. Stock is brass and cup are steel just FYI. Having higher preload springs then stock I would think the stock brass units won't last at all. Mike
10-24-2011, 11:41 AM
#49
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
If money is an issue I go with cup plates- same locking ratio 40/60 as stock but will last way alot longer at minimal costs. I remember it ran $700. Stock is brass and cup are steel just FYI. Having higher preload springs then stock I would think the stock brass units won't last at all. Mike
My goal here is to not have to open the tranny again for as looooong as possible (durability), not maximum performance. What would you recommend?
Thanks
10-24-2011, 11:46 AM
#50
Nordschleife Master
If you want the perfect balance of price, performance, and longevity you cannot go wrong with the cup gears, cup clutch packs for the LSD. I did that in mine and it was heaven.
While you are in there, you need to shorten up the gears. The current structure is one that will never be exploited. Bring the top end down in the 170's and shorten gears 3-6. Depending on what track(s) you predominately run, talk to the shop building the box and tell them what stock gear ratios are like on track. The options are virtually endless to get that "perfect" gear set.
While you are in there, you need to shorten up the gears. The current structure is one that will never be exploited. Bring the top end down in the 170's and shorten gears 3-6. Depending on what track(s) you predominately run, talk to the shop building the box and tell them what stock gear ratios are like on track. The options are virtually endless to get that "perfect" gear set.
10-24-2011, 12:43 PM
#51
Rennlist Member
Stock durability- terrible(brass units will just wear faster- why they put that junk in I don't know why). Cup durability-U get in spades : ). Mike ps- like Dell mentioned I woulda done the whole tamale except add a shorter r/p and gearsets he mentioned because I'm a track junkie : ). Mike
10-24-2011, 01:07 PM
#52
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As per Matt's previous post elsewhere on this site, don't go too short on 3rd if durability is important. Keep 3rd gear in the 1.600:1 to 1.650:1 range. Avoid 1.684:1 to 1.789:1 area because they have a shorter lifespan that you may not want due to their physical size.
Cheers,
Cheers,
10-24-2011, 03:46 PM
#53
Nordschleife Master
Ring and pinion and a mainshaft? Yeah, it's feasible to hit $10K with that kind of damage. It's not that common but some of those pinion bearings have been known to fail prematurely on these boxes.
Stan is no idiot. He won't stack your LSD too tight. If he gets you the Cup Car vane kit, he can adjust things appropriately to give you a good street/DE diff and not build you something that's race spec on your driver...
Stan is no idiot. He won't stack your LSD too tight. If he gets you the Cup Car vane kit, he can adjust things appropriately to give you a good street/DE diff and not build you something that's race spec on your driver...
10-24-2011, 05:24 PM
#55
Rennlist Member
The 7.2RS ring 'n pinion set might be a good choice for someone who does not want to go as aggressive as the Cup or the Guard setup.. (and still offer some reduction in ratio)
10-24-2011, 07:26 PM
#56
Nordschleife Master
